fredk

So far I've only seen that set currently available in 19mm - 3/4 inch. It might be easier to down size your letter alphabet to match the numbers

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Which set do you call 'standard' ? a picture of some of them will help us

afair you can get edge creaser heads which fit into standard soldering irons which use replaceable tips

When I use 1 / 1.1mm thread I sew thru 0.8mm holes with a 1mm needle, but thats a punched hole which doesn't remove leather. On your holes I'd be using 1.5mm or even 2mm lace I'm sure it would be. I reckon Tandy's scouts' kits have been around since Baden-Powell's first scout troop

I'll come back to this, but in the meantime 1. those sewing holes look awfully big. can you reduce them, a lot? 2. how about some simple and cheap kits for scouts? I believe the scouts in the US are big on doing leatherwork. The only real competitor for you I know of who makes kits is Tandy and imo they really over-charge for what you get

This Its surprising what you can find. Often you can get leatherwork tools cheap cos the seller doesn't know what they are and for

One tool I'd advise getting is wing-dividers or the screw adjusted version. Most useful in my instances Your #5 - I hope you mean a skiving knife. A skinning knife is a very different tool and would not be much use to you Buy high quality hole punches, don't skimp on them. You'll also need a range of item such as files, whetstones etc for making sharp things sharp and keeping them that way

I'm the odd one out. I use one of those punches, have done for about 5 years now, with no problems. In fact I reckon they're one of the best I've ever had. Previous ones by other makers broke after a short time, even very expensive ones.

yeah, and it wants me to download somat. I don't download unknowns. If the OP can't be bothered to post photos on this site then I'm not going to chase

On second look, second thoughts. . . . . . . . Nice, I like it Without being rude, there are few things out of alignment, eg the double line about 1/2 way down doesn't match the edge, but for all that, its still nice

Pictures? I don't see no pichurs

Nice

Dye first then paint the letters. Use 'Mop & Glo' floor polish for a sealant

No chaps, those are not what he is looking for, Imagine a Chicago Screw assembled, but in one piece. A flat head on each side. Some old fashioned military equipment used to attach to belts and straps using them

Thanks for these For others, to educate them; in many English towns and especially so London, trades were grouped in certain areas, all workers in one type of trade were in one district, eg the leatherworkers in one area, butchers in another, goldsmiths in another, and this is reflected today in the street names still existing

Sharp hole punch, Sharpen it and it will cut cleaner. A blunt punch is not cutting the leather cleanly

yup, you got it

ohhh, that is just sooooo nice!

I have a very large spool of thread which is not waxed. After I cut off a length I wax about 3 inches of the ends, taper, thread on needle, then pull the rest of that thread through a block of beeswax. Waxing the ends helps to keep the individual threads together and make a good taper

Unfortunately, with the loss of certain skilled trades the different styles of spoke shaves have been lost. It took me many years to find just a few replacements for ones I had stolen. There are / were three main types of spoke shave. 1. the common flat foot, straight blade type we see everywhere, strictly not a 'spoke' shave but simply a wood shave 2. a type with convex foot and convex blade, sometimes called a 'chair-makers shave' as its useful for shaving out the recess for your butt on a chair seat 3. a type with a concave foot and concave blade - the true wheel-wright's spoke shave, for making square edges round Within these three main groups there used to be a very great range of sizes, eg the #1 now only available with a 2 to 3 inch blade use to be available from 1/2" to about 15", the #2 was available in different sizes and curvatures up to about a 12" blade as was #3

Try 'Mop and Glo' (name?) floor polish - 2 coats

Last time I used Dylon, with the powder, you mixed it into a cupful of almost hot water, when that cooled you mixed it into 1 gallon of warm water. With the liquid pots you mixed one into 1/2 gallon of warm water. End colour was just the same. Adding more dye into the water didn't alter the end colour depth, it just dyed quicker.

Bees wax on its own melts at a low temperature and dissolves easily in many drinks, such as beer. I suggest a mix of food-grade carnauba and bees wax

If its anything like the UK's Dylon dye, the liquid form is just a pre-mixed version of the powder, for convenience