fredk

90% likely the 'expensive' ones on etsy are the cheap ones being sold at inflated prices by re-sellers

Most excellent, all round, everything

On any thickness less that about 1.4mm (3.5 oz ?) I use a rotary knife. It helps limit any slip-out from under my straight edge

As long as the plate is not made of aluminium or magnesium alloy, try a soaking in a strong caustic soda solution. CS dissolves aluminium quickly

That looks like a chrome tan to me and you cannot get the creases out of it. Best you can do is to stretch it tight and glue it to the panels, this will minimise the crease look but not eradicate it

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333930064942?epid=20045199299&hash=item4dbfc86c2e:g:p-gAAOSwbWZgWJLP For straight sections I use this, have been for a long time, a scrap of beech with a groove in it I also have a couple of carrot shaped slickers I've also used a piece of denim or a piece of linen in my fingers Before you set out to do it 'easier' learn what it is you are doing

The dark material might be neoprene sponge rubber. Both it and the cork can be as thin as 1mm

Go to a hobby shop which sells items for model railways and ask for cork track underlay. Its thin cork strip, usually with adhesive tape on the back. A big roll will cost you just a few Euro

I believe that is actually a panel beaters hammer. For beating metal panels into shapes. There are a great variety of head shapes in these types of hammers.

On a book shelf with lots of cousins and read occasionally. Thats what it was born for

UK, we use millimeters for thickness. 1 US ounce for leather = 0.4mm thickness. Therefore 3oz = 1.2mm, 4oz = 1.6mm and remember; when you apply dye to your raw leather and it dries, the leather shrinks. Not only in width x height, but also in thickness. Most often this shrinking in thickness goes unnoticed but it can affect the final out come of your project in some cases

Very nicey indeedy

you need to PM a moderator and ask. But they won't necessarily delete a thread if there is information being shared in it

a. dubbin is a heavy waxed based polish used for waterproofing leather items, especially hiking boots and bags. Its not meant to be polished, just applied and allowed to semi-harden b. pure turpentine is made from the resin of pine trees

That and the dull finish makes me think its a dubbin type polish which might be removed with turpentine

Like this That is like my main beek tool when I kept bees

I avoid facebook like the plague. which reminds me, I have a Plague Doctor's Mask to make up I'll check out the Studios tho, sometime soon-ish.

thanks for coming back so quickly. I always forget stuff can be found on youtube

Just another thought; if the cobblers can't do the job, try turpentine. Real turps, not the turps substitute you can buy cheaply. As a beekeeper I used to make beeswax polishes and I used real turps in the mix. Real turps would strip my polishes off things. edit to ask; is this bag worth the effort? or is it one of those projects we just don't want to be beaten by?

well, for my part I'd be interest in how they are used thanks sorry, PS. thats a really loverly bit of tooling on that oakleaf corner, and the basket weave as well.

extra. I bought one of these skiver things a couple of years ago. I've never used it. I must get a round tuit. I need to find somewhere to set it up. It cost me all of about £24. It might do the job of skiving the edges? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284202705458?hash=item422bcd2232:g:fSwAAOSwI7ZgbXEJ

I don't know if this helps any. I've been getting very thin leathers off this chap. Check out each piece for thickness. I get them and use them as is for lining but with a bit of cleaning down and re-dyeing the colours can be changed https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Other-Leathercraft-Accessories/160670/m.html?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEFSXS%3AMESOI&_ssn=bel-fred&_sop=15

That looks good and fit for purpose

The only thing left to try is cellulose thinners, aka lacquer thinners. I use it to remove just about all top finishes, including polishes and lacquer finishes