fredk

Tandy allows free distribution of their patterns which they have offered free and for users to make unlimited items using those patterns You (the general you) must not pass off a Tandy pattern as your own. This includes patterns and tip sheets et al drawn up by the Tandy representatives for Tandy

Those look very nice indeed

May I add; that doesn't look like an ordinary washer. It looks like a coin or token. Perhaps something the holster owner picked up, maybe considered it his 'lucky' coin and wanted it on the strap My grandfather had a Chinese coin, which was round with a square hole in the centre, on his watch chain. He picked it up in the Philippines during the US-Spanish War there. He said it was a 'lucky coin' to him

I'm too tight a-wallet to throw these sorts of things away. If it was me I'd set up to drill out a hole on the back, tap it for a 3mm or 4mm flanged head screw and turn them into screw-attachable Same Browne studs

I've not had to do many straps recently, but, rather dip in a tray I got a length of plastic piping, about 4.5 feet long by 2 inches i/d. I sealed up one end. I mount that vertically with pipe clips on the side of a small bench. I attach a piece of wire to one end of the strap for hanging up. Also using that wire as a grip I dip the strap into the dye in the piping tube. I let the strap soak for a bit then I draw it out, allowing it to draw, carefully, over the edge of the tube which takes off some liquid dye on the strap surface. Then I hang it up to dry. If the strap is more than about 4 to 4.3 feet, I just dip dye one end, up to about 2/3 length, draw it it and reverse it and dye the remaining part plus a generous overlap. As the leather is bring dipped dyed and the dye is allowed to soak in I find there is no noticeable difference on the ends of a long strap. But the tube doesn't hold much dye, maybe 1 litre, and the leather soaks it up pretty quickly so a good stock of dye, thinned or not, needs to be ready to make sure all the straps are the same colour

you'll never quieten the noise of the hammering still using a mallet. I changed to using a press, a Tandy one. I can do virtually all my stamp impressions with it, any time night or day. In fact, its 02.43 here and I did some stamp impressions about an hour ago. My neighbours don't hear the press,

The copper & washer rivets you don't want to or cannot use

Harbor Freight have one for $9.99 https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-spray-guns/air-brushes-kits/34-and-3-oz-airbrush-kit-62294.html

I'm in Donaghadee. About 20 miles east of Belfast. Just on the north-east edge of the Irish Sea and almost where Belfast / Carrick Lough opens. I know both Mayo Bridge and Stroke-City. Never lived in either but visited often enough I had to look up Lisdoonvarna. I reckon I've been through it at some time. I've been through most places here. I was once a car rally photographer so I spent a lot of time chasing cars and going thru middle-of-nowhere places No festivals or car rallies, no nothing, anywhere here this past year.

Use your 'cleaner' to dilute the Resolene. The 'windex', if its like our 'windowlene', will slow the drying of the Resolene a bit, meaning not so much drying on your needle tip Also consider a needle-less spray brush. I have a few different types of spray brush and for larger areas, quicker cover and more available fluid I prefer a basic needle-less type. Like this one; a Badger 250 It can be bought complete for under $20. Other makes of similar style are available, the cheapest I've seen costs about $10 It works on a simple venturi effect of air causing a suction and atomisation* of the fluid. No needles to clean, just that tube and nipple up from the jar. The spray pattern can be adjusted from about a Quarter (25c) size upwards * I'm probably wrong describing its working

Ask Le Prevo about DC 11-15 on this page http://www.leprevo.co.uk/rivets.htm I have some of these and they're brass metal, plated nickel in my case. But I bought them a long time ago and the newer stock may be different

B701 is a beveller with a fine check pattern on it? I prefer smooth bevellers. B200, is about the same size as the 701, and a B935 is good for small tighter areas. Its about half the width of the 200 If you want to keep to the checks then a B936 would be the smaller size, just about half the width of the 701 To go any smaller you'd need to grind a beveller down with a dremel type motor tool Also, have you tried tipping the beveller to the side to avoid any other work?

My oldest Singer is a 15K from a block of January - June 1915. Next oldest is a 15K-30 from a block in June 1937, then comes my 99K from a block in October 1956 Whilst not 'pure' leatherworking machines they sew the thin stuff I work with.

Yes you can Depending on your arbor press ram you may need to adapt it. Usually a hole of about 3/8 inch (9.5mm) needs drilling into it to take the parts, then you can use the parts meant for just about any press

Have you access to a lathe? If you have, mount up the head and reduce its diameter or cut a slice off the length

I use 'embroidery' scissors, bought in a knitting shop years ago. They are super sharp I also have some pairs of snips for occasional use and for cutting thin leather lace. like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thread-Snips-Scissors-Yarn-Sewing-Cutter-Craft-High-Quality-Seam-Ripper-Each/142076493897?hash=item21146b4049:g:aX8AAOSwi2lZjYJv when I bought mine I got 3 for £1, so I bought a load and distributed them to friends

I think you are looking for a 'draw' or 'plough gauge' strap cutter https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Leather-Cutting-Machine-Aluminium/dp/B07WWDL7PY/ref=sr_1_6?adgrpid=58616271092&dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiZ-Tkt7D7QIVkWDmCh1THgReEAMYASAAEgK9W_D_BwE&hvadid=259095674075&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9046454&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=15844784943665506087&hvtargid=kwd-297398175991&hydadcr=28176_1821089&keywords=strap+cutter+leather&qid=1607614747&sr=8-6&tag=googhydr-21 https://hwebber.co.uk/shop/c-s-osborne-leather-working-tools/leather-knives-sharpening-stones/knives-sharpening-stones-leather-knives/draw-gauge/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6dDH_9_D7QIVqujtCh25XgclEAQYBiABEgKF6fD_BwE

I once made some medieval type kit for a chap, belt, knife sheath, belt pouch, drawstring bag, wrist bracer. He insisted on raw fresh leather, no smoothing of cut edges etc and it had to have chicken fat rubbed into it. The leather darkened nicely over time but about 6 months later it all smelt very rancid. Stooopid guy reckoned 'thats what they would have used' I got paid so what do I care if his stuff was so stinky that no-one would go close to him.

Round my way kitchen fitters do not use real granite or marble. Grave stone makers use concrete internals faced with a thin veneer of granite or marble. So getting a new reasonable sized piece of real granite is not easy. All of which is odd as one of N.I.'s main exports is granite! But: I dropped into a local B&Q on Friday to see what they had in 'paving'. They have pavers of granite, about 30cm /1ft square. about 25mm /1 inch thick. Polished on one side, rough on the other. £4.64 each. However, when I checked with a B&Q chap they are to 'order' only. The order being 80 pavers! The chap, ever helpful, used his phone and checked and found another branch not too far away (8 miles) had 56 for sale individually, so I headed there and got one. The rough side doesn't bother me, I'll give it a base of scrap leather glued on. https://www.diy.com/departments/silver-grey-paving-slab-l-295mm-w-295mm/5015111965204_BQ.prd If you search B&Q for 'granite' these don't show up.

Make 1 piece for going around the sides and back of the waist. Make it wide, say 1 3/4 inches, then make two shorter end pieces, maybe 1 or 1 1/4 inch wide and sew to the wider piece.

Red = a Christmas seasonal colour. Fortunate I'd say, they can be rescued

Nice. Cute lawn-mower design

I've only ever seen them in copper. But you can get a chemical which blackens brass and copper. I'll see if I can find my bottle of it and get the name

In N.I./UK/Ireland we do not have Id in the way the US or mainland Europe has where every citizen needs to have an Id card. The 'Id' window in our wallets are usually used to show bus passes, or works id, ie passes needed by your employer etc. I put photos behind my plastic window, others I know put their bus passes there. Mr.Plod in N.I./UK /Ireland accept our word on our Id and only insist on something more in a serious, very serious, incident eg a road traffic accident On the mater of RFID blocking. Plumber type people use an thin aluminium tape to cover pipes. I've tested it and I use it sometimes in card wallets. A roll of this tape will cost you about £/$ 5. The roll is usually about 2 inches wide and 50 metres long.

The hole is in the middle of the clear plastic window so the Id can be removed? Use a very sharp punch and smooth the edges with some fine grade wet & dry grit paper