fredk

1. That size of needle should go thru that size of hole cleanly **. Are you using a correct leatherworking thread knot on your needle? ** my JJ 2/0 needles are 1.4mm and my JJ 1/0 are 1.04mm. I use both with 1 / 1.2 mm thread in 1mm holes 2. I use pre-waxed flat and round thread. After attaching to the needle I rub beeswax over the first few inches and rub it into the thread with my fingers, a bit like burnishing it in 3. On a long run of sewing, in fact on any length, I keep an eye on the state of the thread. As soon as any part starts to look dry from the wax rubbing off as its pulled through numerous holes I pull the thread over a block of beeswax a few times to restore the waxing. I pay especial attention to the thread around the needle's eye where the wax rubs off quicker. Waxing, waxing, and waxing some more as you go 4. and you need to wait more than a few hours for a response. The members on here are all over the world and very many have businesses to run, lives to run and not on the forum 24/7. I've not been looking thru the forum for about 28 hours. This is a forum for leather working, not machines. If you mean leather sewing machines - no it isn't that either, that is just one small part of the forum

When you press your stamp(s) ~ press and hold down for at least 30 seconds, a minute, even two minutes is better. It helps to prevent the leather from reforming and softening the stamped image

One on each foot silly,

umm, to darken orange add red, to lighten it add yellow

I suggest you wet mould the top piece first. Use a piece of leather much longer than it needs to be so you can pull the end down real tight. I find if the leather is cut too close to where it should end I get wrinkles, but if I take it well beyond that point I can pull it tighter.

I've never noticed the twist of any of my threads. . . . . . . and I ain't gonna go looking at them now! Never heard of this. Never happened to me, To the OP. I use Poly as that is what I can get in colours to suit / match my leather colours. The Poly I buy is flat in section. I like the way it lays flat when pulled snug. ~~ this was my 1500 posting!

A good dose, but not too much, of neatsfoot oil on them too will maybe soften them. You'd need to let the NFO soak in for a few days at least before the leather shows much difference

Does Chisash mean contact adhesive? The OP is in a $ using place - US, Canada, Australia? For under £10, about US$12.50, I can buy a tin of contact adhesive which will do the area mentioned, 31.5 sq ft Does it have to be sewn? or just attached? I've used contact adhesive to adhere leather, PVC material and cloth to wood panels for vintage cars Using the awl in a drill press idea is just for making sewing holes. A sewing awl blade is just a special kind of knife. In a drill press it will cut thru thick leather and maybe thin ply but you are looking at 5mm thick ply - the blade will bend and break. Drill the holes and stitch using the two-needle saddler stitch method

What about this one from Tandy's Leathercarft Library. Its a free PDF and you can print it out at a size to suit your project Link: https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/product/1449/celtic-cross-ii

Wot he says. Another idea. Take the SD cards out. Wet the centre of the case, fold over to find the centre line, gouge a shallow trench along that centre line. If you don't have a gouge use something to press a good hard line on the centre line. Still being wet, fold over again and then tap the fold with a mallet [not a steel hammer]. Let it dry and the case will have a preferred fold to it

Don't use an awl on plywood. Use a small drill ~ maybe 1/16 inch or less, it will be quicker and less dangerous

I too know it as piping. I've used thin electric wire / flex for the internals, as well as round leather lace, cord, string, whatever has the diameter I need. As well as doing a separate welt you can turn over one edge of one piece and sew the cord into that as you sew the main seam. Fold the main leather over the cord and glue it down

The meths I buy is purple coloured and this does not show in either dye nor acrylic paint I thin with it. An alternative is IPA which is totally clear and sometimes cheaper per L

Try: smoothing as usual with your 400g then use 600, 800 and then 1000/1200. Try mixing some beeswax with shoe polish and apply that. Buff / slick it in real fast with a piece of denim or linen - you need to build up friction heat to soften the wax & polish to get it soft, into the leather and get it nice and smooth

On the second one the stitching is flesh to edge. I've never seen it on this forum but I used to make my knife sheaths that way. The stitch on the front goes into the edge of the leather forming the top and the stitch comes out the top. You need to use a curved awl and curved needle to do it. The plug forming the top & bottom inserts needs to be at least 2mm thick, 3 to 4mm is better On my sheaths I went from the back, thru the welt and then out through the edge of the top layer, thus no stitching was seen on the front of the sheath

It looks grand for all that. Sewing a circular base into a tube ain't that easy or straight forward

Tandy lists which button-hole punch to use with each of their SB studs, As you choose each size of punch the spiel in the box at the bottom changes to tell you what size stud to use https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/buttonhole-punches But I have S/B studs from several different makers and although they are nominally the same size they actually need a different size hole for the centre post

Thanks for posting I can never have enough bag patterns. I'm a sucker for them

ah shore do The only time I reckon I used mine was as an anvil at a medieval show. I was the go-to-guy for on site repairs. One of the demo fighters comes to me. His sewn on heel on one of his shoes was loose. Medieval shoes have only a thin leather heel, about 3mm thick. So I used tacks to re-attach the heel using this tool on the inside of the shoe to turn over the tack points by hammering the tacks thru and onto this tool

tbh. I'd like to know as well as I have one in my leather tools box I was told it was a cobbler's anvil/hammer

As far as I can read it most 3D Doodle pens have a nozzle of 0.8 or 1mm. Which I think is adequate both thickness and thinness wise. Yes. I'm thinking something like the Craftaid sheets, either as a further cutting guide or as a self-relief stamp. That too is a grand idea of a way. Another type of material which could be used is Polymer Clay, better known by the trade names of FIMO and Sculpey. These clays are a thermo setting plastic. A soft modelling clay until baked in an oven for just a few minutes - approx 130* for 10 minutes, then they set hard and permanent. They can be carved and shaped easily before baking and Types 1 and 2 can be easily cut with hobby type knives and small chisels after baking. Type 3 needs more robust tools after baking. After baking the items are heat proof to a high degree. They will scorch before burning but will eventually burn like plastic There are three grades of hardness after baking; 1. soft and flexible like a hard rubber 2. the standard grade, medium hardness but still a bit bendable 3. sets as hard as natural clay - this is the original FIMO which was invented to make dolls arms & hands, legs and heads The three types can be inter-mixed which can alter their hardness as well as the very numerous colours they are available in. I have used polymer clay for making masters of viking/medieval belt/strap ends for sand casting in metal. I've also used it for many other items which required copies, eg buck for heat moulding plastic sheet over. Using RockyAussie's method above, the design could be carved into a material, eg a sheet of polymer clay [hereafter P/C] which is baked, then more clay pressed into that to make the reverse stamp. If a release agent is used, eg, water or talc, the fresh P/C can be baked in situ on the original and the two can be separated. With a suitable release agent plastic resin can be used in a P/C mould. Type 1 is best for this as it can be flexed to release the resin copy. Time for experiments I think. If I can find one of the P/C belt ends I'll try pressing it into some leather. I do believe you are right. Yes, USA, I got that too from mention of BSA et al, but thats a kinda-of a large place innit?

I'm toying with the idea of getting one of those 3D 'doodle' pens to draw over art-work, or draw new art-work, in the plastic which is extruded. Going over it a few times should give some thickness and depth to the lines

1. may I suggest you put in your profile where in the world you are located then we may be able to make suggestions pertinent to where you are. It may be useless to you for me to tell you to go see one of the North Down Model Railway Society members, unless you are in Northern Ireland. 2. no matter where you are you need to seek out a small engineering works which uses CNC cutters for making custom automotive/motorcycle parts. They will probably be the only ones who will do one-offs in metal. A large company using these machines will be making parts in the hundreds or thousands and won't want to see you. 3. The stamp need not be cut in metal. Wet leather, as for stamping, is very, very soft. As long as the stamp is harder than the leather it will mark it. I have recently bought some stamps made by a Russian chap. He made them with a 3D printer. They not only have the most excellent detail, but press into the leather and transfer their pattern most easily. If you do not have a 3D printer hook up with someone who does. link to the Russian chap's ebay listing; https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=&_ssn=nasimex&_sop=15

Try Tandy Library. They have a few pattern packs for free right now. One pack includes a pattern for a flapped holster, WBS military type, another pack has a 'Slim Jim / California style Two links: Flapped Holster ~ https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/product/1235/percussion-pistol-pattern-pak-2691 Slim Jim aka California pattern, ~ https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/product/1620/custom-holster-pattern-4418

I reckon you are over worried. The ancients never worried about such thinks and in the UK leather items with brass items attached from up to 2000 years and more ago have been found. The brass is not corroded where it is attached to leather and if the leather is intact and still existant it shows no reaction to the brass item. Are you wanting your items to last 2 millennia or more? I think there is a lot of odd information flowing about on the internet. A lot of it is urban-myth. The people propagating this information have never actually experienced what they claim. I've used brass buckles and loops and rivets with both veg tan and chrome tan leathers for over 20 years and never once have I seen any of these reactions which are claimed by internet worryors