fredk

On the second one the stitching is flesh to edge. I've never seen it on this forum but I used to make my knife sheaths that way. The stitch on the front goes into the edge of the leather forming the top and the stitch comes out the top. You need to use a curved awl and curved needle to do it. The plug forming the top & bottom inserts needs to be at least 2mm thick, 3 to 4mm is better On my sheaths I went from the back, thru the welt and then out through the edge of the top layer, thus no stitching was seen on the front of the sheath

It looks grand for all that. Sewing a circular base into a tube ain't that easy or straight forward

Tandy lists which button-hole punch to use with each of their SB studs, As you choose each size of punch the spiel in the box at the bottom changes to tell you what size stud to use https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/buttonhole-punches But I have S/B studs from several different makers and although they are nominally the same size they actually need a different size hole for the centre post

Thanks for posting I can never have enough bag patterns. I'm a sucker for them

ah shore do The only time I reckon I used mine was as an anvil at a medieval show. I was the go-to-guy for on site repairs. One of the demo fighters comes to me. His sewn on heel on one of his shoes was loose. Medieval shoes have only a thin leather heel, about 3mm thick. So I used tacks to re-attach the heel using this tool on the inside of the shoe to turn over the tack points by hammering the tacks thru and onto this tool

tbh. I'd like to know as well as I have one in my leather tools box I was told it was a cobbler's anvil/hammer

As far as I can read it most 3D Doodle pens have a nozzle of 0.8 or 1mm. Which I think is adequate both thickness and thinness wise. Yes. I'm thinking something like the Craftaid sheets, either as a further cutting guide or as a self-relief stamp. That too is a grand idea of a way. Another type of material which could be used is Polymer Clay, better known by the trade names of FIMO and Sculpey. These clays are a thermo setting plastic. A soft modelling clay until baked in an oven for just a few minutes - approx 130* for 10 minutes, then they set hard and permanent. They can be carved and shaped easily before baking and Types 1 and 2 can be easily cut with hobby type knives and small chisels after baking. Type 3 needs more robust tools after baking. After baking the items are heat proof to a high degree. They will scorch before burning but will eventually burn like plastic There are three grades of hardness after baking; 1. soft and flexible like a hard rubber 2. the standard grade, medium hardness but still a bit bendable 3. sets as hard as natural clay - this is the original FIMO which was invented to make dolls arms & hands, legs and heads The three types can be inter-mixed which can alter their hardness as well as the very numerous colours they are available in. I have used polymer clay for making masters of viking/medieval belt/strap ends for sand casting in metal. I've also used it for many other items which required copies, eg buck for heat moulding plastic sheet over. Using RockyAussie's method above, the design could be carved into a material, eg a sheet of polymer clay [hereafter P/C] which is baked, then more clay pressed into that to make the reverse stamp. If a release agent is used, eg, water or talc, the fresh P/C can be baked in situ on the original and the two can be separated. With a suitable release agent plastic resin can be used in a P/C mould. Type 1 is best for this as it can be flexed to release the resin copy. Time for experiments I think. If I can find one of the P/C belt ends I'll try pressing it into some leather. I do believe you are right. Yes, USA, I got that too from mention of BSA et al, but thats a kinda-of a large place innit?

I'm toying with the idea of getting one of those 3D 'doodle' pens to draw over art-work, or draw new art-work, in the plastic which is extruded. Going over it a few times should give some thickness and depth to the lines

1. may I suggest you put in your profile where in the world you are located then we may be able to make suggestions pertinent to where you are. It may be useless to you for me to tell you to go see one of the North Down Model Railway Society members, unless you are in Northern Ireland. 2. no matter where you are you need to seek out a small engineering works which uses CNC cutters for making custom automotive/motorcycle parts. They will probably be the only ones who will do one-offs in metal. A large company using these machines will be making parts in the hundreds or thousands and won't want to see you. 3. The stamp need not be cut in metal. Wet leather, as for stamping, is very, very soft. As long as the stamp is harder than the leather it will mark it. I have recently bought some stamps made by a Russian chap. He made them with a 3D printer. They not only have the most excellent detail, but press into the leather and transfer their pattern most easily. If you do not have a 3D printer hook up with someone who does. link to the Russian chap's ebay listing; https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=&_ssn=nasimex&_sop=15

Try Tandy Library. They have a few pattern packs for free right now. One pack includes a pattern for a flapped holster, WBS military type, another pack has a 'Slim Jim / California style Two links: Flapped Holster ~ https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/product/1235/percussion-pistol-pattern-pak-2691 Slim Jim aka California pattern, ~ https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/product/1620/custom-holster-pattern-4418

I reckon you are over worried. The ancients never worried about such thinks and in the UK leather items with brass items attached from up to 2000 years and more ago have been found. The brass is not corroded where it is attached to leather and if the leather is intact and still existant it shows no reaction to the brass item. Are you wanting your items to last 2 millennia or more? I think there is a lot of odd information flowing about on the internet. A lot of it is urban-myth. The people propagating this information have never actually experienced what they claim. I've used brass buckles and loops and rivets with both veg tan and chrome tan leathers for over 20 years and never once have I seen any of these reactions which are claimed by internet worryors

Pounce wheels are still used in custom vehicle painting. I use one for marking stitching holes on thinnish leather. The prongs are wicked sharp and will go through the leather, and my fingers

Very nice indeedy The best of reasons for making anything ach, just ignore Mike, he doesn't know what he's talking about,

There kinda is. You can block him in your ebay settings. In the past I and a few friends have shared the names of numpties like this one so each of us could block them ~~~ A bit of yours and a bit of SilverForgeStudio's experiences.: My #1 son used to sell 2nd BMW car parts on ebay. One guy bought an engine head. a high performance one. About 10 days later the guy put in a claim that the head was cracked. My son gave proof to ebay that the head was perfect when sent out. Ebay dropped the case. But the seller took it to court. He wanted his couple of hundred ££ plus the mechanic's fees etc back. My son waited till it was in court then he provided the judge with photos of the head in place and the car racing at a track event and a statement from a track official which stated that the seller had raced but had pulled out of the finals due to a wrecked engine. Even the judge knew you can't race on a cracked engine head. Not only case dismissed but #1 was awarded costs. #1 son used to attend a lot of the car track events and photograph cars he supplied parts for as a kinda personal record of them. edit: PS. Its soooo tempting but I never respond to the rude messages from other ebayers. I just report them to ebay then block them from bidding / buying

That is crazeee nice

For me that only shows up things to do with Harley-D motorcycles.

I'm getting the same Perhaps ebay - USA is blocking us outsiders from seeing it as we are not logged into ebay-USA

both are very nicey indeedy

Border-less and rounded corners on photo prints were common in the early 1970s. In the 1950s prints had fancy scalloped white borders and in the 1960s the prints had straight cut white borders, although straight white borders could be found for the late 1950s as well.

Tea as well, does a nice colour

an 'adjustable' a C or crescent spanner spoil-sport

sorry, NFO = Neatsfoot Oil. Should be NO really, but NFO is better. Neat or Neet is Old English [pre-Shakespeare] for cattle. Its made from the oils in the hooves and lower legs of cattle On this forum we recommend using PURE Neatsfoot Oil and not COMPOUND as the Compound contains petroleum products to which some people and animals will have an adverse reaction

There ya go with the differences in terminology. I think what you guys are describing is known to me as an 'adjustable' To me a 'crescent' spanner/wrench is C shaped with a small hook on the inside of the top curve, at the edge. Its used for loosening & tightening special nuts such as found on the handlebars head bearings and the pedal bearing box on bicycles and certain parts on vintage Austin 7 cars. The gap between the jaws of the C are measured to fit the special nut properly

Yes, but be aware that the dye will severely dry out the leather and cause it to shrink. Maybe treat with NFO first, then the dye No, but then they didn't have wood dyes either. Leather dye was made of natural things and could be bought commercially as far back as the mid 1700s Once dry the wood stain is better than wood paints in that respect. Unless you chew on the wood you'll not get anything out of dried wood stain. These days oil and spirit wood dyes are used all round us ~ to recolour woods to look like other types, to just colour furniture legs and frames, et cetera

ya jus gotta luv a piece made with a story behind it. ~~~ well I do anyways Happy birthday to the gent. I knew an old chap like that. Everyday he visited a different friend and got his evening dinner with them. You never saw him again for about 4 weeks when it was your turn again. No-one minded at all.