My family used to have a set that looked exactly like those
The forks were 'pickle forks' , the straight un was for pickled onions and the nut crackers.
On of my older sisters used to torture me by using the nut crackers on one of my fingers ; ~ 'do as I say or want or. . . . ' as she squeezed
Back on topic; it does look like the pickle forks have been re-purposed to edge bevellers and/or for pulling out small tacks, like shoe sole tacks
In the normal course of things it doesn't matter, if you are saddle stitching
On straight run stitching it can make a difference
On some thin leathers I have holes at 2 -3mm rip out and I have to go up to 5 - 6mm
What happens comes with experience
Just use ordinary paper patterns. Even the seam allowances are alright for leather seams
My first choice for leather would be from Le Prevo :
http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm
Scroll down for the clothing leather. And the staff at Le Prevo will help with advice too
I get advertising emails from 'Ivan'
I just got one about a range of hole punches;
https://www.ivan.tw/products/craftplus-professional-drive-punches
Interesting shape. And I wonder if that wider chute on the smaller sizes will make it easier to clear the punches of the plugs?
Sometimes the subject comes up ' does chrome tan leather affect steel' ?
Today I got out of my EDC pouch a small pair of snippers. I'd made them a small sheath out of some chrome tan leather to cover the blades. The snippers have been in the pouch for months, unused until today. The bare metal blades had some mild corrosion on them
Just over a month ago Gezzer posted up a thread on a hatband he'd made
In that thread I suggested getting some false fingers to put on the hatband
I got the fingers. They are polythene plastic, not real ones (aww!) They were painted, very terribly, so I repainted them. They are about 50% bigger than real ones
Now to find a use for them
There should be a letter before the number. The letter indicates which group the tool belongs, eg A = Backgrounders (mostly), B = Bevellers, P = Pear shaders, S = Seeders, et cetera
We discussed that knife previously. Many other trades lay claim to it. If you shop around you can buy a good but cheaper one meant for another trade, such as carpet fitters or glaziers
yes it will.
I find that a belly stretches more from back-bone to centre of belly than along the belly from leg to leg. Laminating it with a less stretchy section reduces the stretchiness
The chap I was talking to who showed me the metal parts soaked the parts in cellulose thinners. He did not explain why though. But that might have been to dissolve the plastic
Eagle looks good, Marine looks subtle.
A wee tip/idea, if you can't paint really neatly, do it deliberately rough. EG on the Arizona, don't try to fill the rays with colour, do it sort-of child-like scribble, not right to the edges
Its not something I really looked for. But my 1.5mm thick c/t is harder to hand sew than 1.5 or even some 2mm veg. On these I use a glovers needle and just sew with no pre-made holes
Another late reply. I dunno how I missed this until now
That is really some bag/holdall (we call a different style of bag a 'duffle bag' )
I'd be afraid to use it out in the real world!