fredk

My 'leather' scissors are not the speciality type sold by leather suppliers but just very tough high quality scissors. They are by Mundial^. They cost me £12 each and I've ended up with 3 (don't ask). These scissors can cut through thin sheet metal as well. For curves I don't do anything fancy, I just grab a plate, a bowl, a lid, anything that has the right curve to it, or even just fold a bit of card in half and cut a curve by eye, trimming it to tidy it maybe*. Then draw around it. Using a pen to mark the leather gives me a more solid line to follow. Also, as I'm very colour blind I cannot actually see a scratch mark on leather * if I'm going to make more of the same item I keep that card pattern shape ^ similar https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mundial-2-inch-Red-Dressmaker-Shears/dp/B0009VEM54

I mark the curve on the flesh side with a ball-point ink pen then I cut the curve with my leather scissors. They'll cut at least up to 4mm nicely. If necessary a swipe or wee bit of sanding with a coarse grade sand piper tidies the cut

Wash it all down again, and again . . . . with a very strong lemon juice solution

I'm not sure about this. About 15 -16 years ago #3 son and I managed to make some nfo and it was a slightly viscous liquid smelling very beefey. A bit like maple syrup in viscosity. A lot of effort to make about a 1/2 pint but we was learning to make stuff like that, and tallow candles and horn laterns and other weird stuff yes, I know whats in it cos I only apply what I make from raw ingredients

kinda off-topic I used to sell a lot of my beeswax/nfo/carnauba wax mix to an antique furniture restorer. He said it was the best polish he'd used for a long time. This guy was no amateur part-timer but one of the UK's best antique furniture restorers, used by museums, 'big' houses, action houses et al

As I pull the cutter along I also slightly turn the handle part into the uncut leather, I also push the leather forward into the blade and also the uncut area into the handle part of the cutter, just gently. Just enough to make the leather to handle a tight fit

These are only things. They can be replaced - you can't be Mainly though, are you and yours ok? enough good water and food?

The chemicals used in making dyes are among the chemicals under embargo by other countries signed up to the Western Powers controls

Aye, well I'll have to wait till then cos mine is looking like muddy water Or start a fresh jar Cold beer I can do, or mead Thanks for spelling whiskey the correct way!

oh, this reminds me, I have a jar of vinegaroon maturing in jar in a corner of my kitchen. I think I started it early last summer (2020) I just used a nail to punch a few holes in the screw-top to let the gasses out Do you think it might be ready? How is it applied?

I. I have personal experience of using a vegetable oil on leather and the leather started to stink after a few months. Also the leather started to show signs of rot, very mild signs. The vegetable oil was put on at the customer's insistence. I had to remake the item for him and boy, did he pay for it! After 10 years of everyday use that second item was still fine. It was finished off with my beeswax & nfo mix. In the early days of my leather working I did use vegie oil on some items but they did begin to smell different after a few months 2. I have never had any leather item go hard and dry after using pure neets foot oil But I've only been doing this leather making lark for some 20 odd years so what do I know, except my experiences

yes, the one and only time I went into a Tandy to buy supplies. I thought I'd get some 4mm leather - 10 ounce to you. The chap there pulled some off the rack. I thought it looked a bit thin, the chap argued, it was 4 mm cos it came off that rack. I made him find a gauge and when we measured the hides they were all 2.8 to 3mm - 7 to 8 oz. And so were all on the rack. Someone had put the thinner leather there as their main rack was full. The shop did not have any 4mm or any thicker.

The only plastics I can think of which might suit are nylon and HDPE

Look at the edge very closely. If its a sort of blue-ish colour then its chrome tanned leather

Remember, every failed piece is one step closer to getting it right

I order from my supplier by mm thickness, ( cos thats how its done here) but in a general way, ie I'll ask them for 20 sq feet of ( x type leather) about 1.6 mm thick and they send me some about that thickness. I trust them and I've never measured any leather supplied to check it As for measuring thickness I use one of these; I just press the ram down until its touching the leather softly. If I were to lock it in place the gauge should just slide off the leather. I rarely use it tho. I just judge the thickness for a job as - 'that will do nicely' Being a natural product, which can absorb atmospheric moisture, or dry out there will be variations according to how dry the leather might be. Let me explain this; recently I made something and my son thought it was very thin leather compared to another similar item which had been made with the exact same leather. I got out my gauge and measured the two items and the raw leather. The raw leather was about 2.2mm thick, Item 1 was about 2mm thick and Item 2 was 1.6mm thick. Item 1 had been finished with water based dyes and sealants Item 2 had been finished with spirit based dyes and sealants The water based dyes had maintained most of the natural moisture content of the leather but the spirit dyes had driven out that moisture resulting in the leather being less bulky

This was the way they were installed so many years ago, Northern Ireland still has lots of power lines and telephone lines running on poles and splitting off to homes. Only in some places have they gone underground

That is cheap at £14.99. But a leather one would be nice but very much more expensive. A leather crafter could knock one up over a weekend I started out using a cantilever tool box but soon out grew it. I got it in a discount sale in B&Q for all of £5. I still have it. I haven't used it in a while. I store spare tools in it afair

and don't forget cable ties and chewing gum, and raw eggs Stopped a leaky radiator in friend's vintage car during a rally by putting a raw egg into it. When the egg cooked it blocked up the hole. Only a temp fix though, and it eventually stinks naa, a nail or a bit of aluminum foil and some paper masking tape

Maker's stamp on it Copying another Maker's product is a no-no here

'Ruined' needs clarification The leather just gets very soft and always feels oily to the touch. The NFO continuously leeches out onto anything it touches For something that will be used outside, eg horse tack or chaps the NFO will eventually be used up and the leather will dry out to the point when it'll need more NFO applied On some things which don't get that exposure it takes much longer to remove the excess, if it removes it at all I once applied too much NFO on a worked leather covered game board. I tried all the suggestions given already. I had very limited success with any of them. Then I had the 'eureka', or 'Condor' moment - I was spending more £/$ on a cure than the leather was worth, and more time trying to fix that board than the time I could, and did, remake it PS. I had moderate success with lacquer thinners, aka cellulose thinners

You need to reduce the memory size of your photos That google thingy won't allow me access

Has any one seen a fly 'play dead' ? Fly comes near me, I took a swipe at it and missed. Fly drops into the desk on its back. As I move my hand away fly turns over onto its legs, starts to fly again, I start to take a swipe at it and it drops to the desk on its back again. I move my hand away and fly turns over and takes a running leap into the air and gets away Durndest thing I've ever seen, well, maybe except for some drunk honey bees And, no, I've not been at the falling-down water

Thems has been banned for about a dozen years now. We used to use them in our egg hatchery but had to change to an oil-burning-blow-heater contraption Collapsible, mmm maybe, wall mount, no place