fredk

I have a 99K. Its a fine machine. I need to learn how to use sewing machines. The 99 has been only used once, recently, for putting holes along the edges of a wallet so I could hand sew it with fine thread My 99 came with electric motor but I converted it to hand-power

Bearing in mind that I've never done a basketweave panel, with or without a border; When I'm having to stamp a repeat in a straight line; I lightly scribe a line using a ball end tool, then I clamp an iron bar along that line. Then when I'm stamping I just have to worry about the spacing along the line. I have several pieces of steel bar of various lengths and widths but all 3mm thick for this sort of work. If the iron bar is going to be on damp/wet leather I back it with duct/duck/gaffer tape.

I've thought hard about writing the following. I'm not posting as a troll. Its for your information. This will really annoy the US members In Northern Ireland US made goods are considered to be crap. Mention that its 'US made' and the advice is to throw it away and buy better quality Everything from vehicles to tools. Even US food is banned here because of its low quality US made things have an extremely bad reputation for being of poor quality and shoddy. Tool dealers I know and have dealt with have long since stopped importing and after-sales supporting certain US made tools because of their poor quality. Certain vehicle importers have stopped importing US built vehicles for the same reasons

That is really nice. If I had something like that it would make me take up drinking beer just so I could collect the tinnies in it

Nope. I'm not seeing what you are seeing I get; This listing is no longer available It may have expired or been sold. Take a look at these other items below. And different searches don't bring it up

Thanks for thinking of me Buts its sold maybe

Smashed down tight the head of a ready-rivet would be no higher than what had been in. Plus the head would be a smoother surface than the edges of what had been there

On rebuilding' I would use brass double headed ready-rivets

I use small electrical side-cutters to crush the sides of the hollow rivet inwards. Often this works so I can pull the fitting off the leather quite easily. Or the side-cutters will be needed to hold the rivet and I drill the rivet. I usually manage to get the side-cutters inbetween the fitting and the strap, or between the peened over end of the rivet and the strap

Questions with a multitude of answers Size of punch first, for a 4mm tongue I do a 4mm wide hole, but I use an oval hole punch so the hole is 4mm x 5mm The distance between holes can be what you like; on a lady's belt I go about 12mm between ends, about 16mm between centres, on a man's belt I go 16mm between ends, about 20mm between centres. On a shield strap I go 20mm between ends, about 24mm between centres How much billet to leave from the end to the first hole? whatever you like or whatever looks good. About 70 to 100mm maybe

If you have a problem with lighting your work 1. I have a couple of poseable lights, on each side of the bench, each with a very bright bulb. I use day-light colour balanced LED bulbs, about 20w, equivalent to about 100 -120w incandescent bulb. I can angle these lights anyways on to my work to eliminate any shadows 2. very occasionally I use a small fore-head light. Its a small LED torch which you can wear on your fore-head using its elastic strap. You can buy these for a couple of $$. Mine cost me £1 and I have several lying around the place. It gives a very bright light for all of its small size 3. You can buy an 'Opti-Visor' with a light and magnifiers built into one visor. These are more expensive, from about $10 upwards.

I reckon the leather is just too dry. Try applying some pure neats foot oil and working the leather in your hands to loosen it up somewhat

That looks very tidy indeedy

As usual; two names for the same thing,

That is a 'cable' stitch. Quite common on fabric items where strength of the sewing is needed. It can only be done by hand sewing

When I first started in this leatherwork lark Resolene was a great sealer but a few years ago I noticed that my newer stock of it would never seal anything so I tried Astonish and have been using it since

I go 6x for an X stitch, but it depends on how tight the X is. A tight X might take 8x Too many bludy Xs ! If the stitches are close then maybe about 8 times, if they are further apart maybe 6 times will do. But only use no more than 2m (6ft) at a time

Can't tell you why right now. I need to think a thunk on it, but here's a fix 1. get a cheap airbrush 2. get some floor 'polish' called Astonish*, which is actually a water thin acrylic varnish 3. spray several, about 3, coats of Astonish on your piece. First coat, go lightly, let soak in and dry, 2nd coat a bit heavier and let dry, then 3rd coat as heavy as the 2nd coat 4. by this third coat everything should be sealed. Further coats will do more sealing but actually start to give your piece a shine. *Astonish, this floor 'polish' has numerous names. No need to buy the original Pledge product which is very expensive. I gat Astonish in Home Bargains for about £1 per 1L or 750ml bottle

I've thinked a thunk on this and tbh I can't thinkafy of anything different than your own suggestion. That colour would really suit a 1960s / early 70s bag with fringe. One of my sisters (I had 4, all older than me) had a hand or shoulder bag that was a rust colour, with a fringe on the flap which came all the way down over the front and the fringe hung down lower. I dunno what leather was used tho. This was about 1970 to '74 - ish.

Good One!

Something I do with friends on other forums; be a 'postal buddy'. Someone posts a thing to me in UK then I post it onwards if the original seller won't post to my 'buddy'. My 'postal buddy' pays for the item and s&h to me, then pays me what it costs to post onwards Perhaps someone in the US could get the book and then post it on-wards.

1. That is a really nice piece of work. Really nice basketweave job and that triangle border stamp looks just right for it 1a. one thing I would do differently, is to end the fleece before the fold over closure flap. Maybe put a thin piece of skiver leather on that part 2. Good idea chuck. I remember losing a lot of fishing equipment to Neptune. Sea fishing here, but wallets like this are used for flies for sea trout and sea bass. 3. My new selling agent has these on my list of things to produce for her. Your job inspires me to get a shufty on* with making a few. They'll be different to yours tho 3a. I like your closure lock. I'll be using a marine grade lift-the-dot fitting on mine. * a shufty on = an Ulsterism meaning to 'just get on with it', set to to actually doing the job. Not to be confused with the English meaning of to look quickly'

Must be a country thing; all the SB studs I have and use have a straight post Like this;

PS. Once upon a time the UK old 1/2p, old 1p and decimal 1p and 2p were made of bronze. My father, who was a cabinet maker, used to take one of these coins and by drilling and filing made key escutcheon plates for antique furniture he used to restore. Its a simple job. Now-a-days these coins are steel coated in copper and not so suitable. I think you'd need to go back to pre-1992 to get fully bronze coins. I guess you'd only have the very old 1c coin in bronze. Modern ones are made in a zinc alloy afaik