fredk

The really big down-side of buying internationally. Do let them know 1. how p***ed off you are with this and 2. that you've been discussing this on an international forum for both experienced and newbie leatherworkers and that their reputation has now dropped to below the Titanic

All the makers of these sorts of things seem to have their own non-standard thread In the past I've re-tapped the thread to match previously bought screws or bolts

Having been a postie a long time ago and received numerous injuries my extended sympathys are with your post-person. A cut from that blade could be very nasty. I'd be contacting the selling company and making a strong complaint. Looking for recompense, or replacement items. In the UK it is the seller's responsibility to ensure the goods get to the customer in good shape and fit for purpose. These items look and sound to me to be not fit for purpose. If you paid by credit card, usually the credit card company can take up the case. In the UK the CC will only look at items costing over £50 (last I knew) but anything over that and their insurance will get involved

The last time I bought a knife, a 'clicker' knife from Le Prevo, they put some thin foam sheet around the blade, then some cardboard around the whole knife, then some bubble wrap around that and used about a mile of parcel tape around the lot and then it was put into a thick plastic bag. The blade protection extended about 1 inch each side of the blade and about 2 to 3 inches beyond the tape. All this for a £4.50 knife! On a slightly different subject but similar; I bought some dye on-line. The seller sent the bottle loose in an oversized box. The cap was not 100% tight and there was no seal so a small amount leaked out. From another seller they sent the bottles with, on each, multiple layers of tape wrapped around the cap to bottle join, wrapped in newspaper, and in a self-sealing plastic bag and this all wrapped in bubble wrap and shredded paper in a box just about the right size for the bottle.

There is one version which is a rivet on. Like a ready rivet base and stem. Then you hammer, lightly, the post and ball of the Sam Brown stud. I had a few of them but I could never get them really tight. I think the screw base ones are better. Just cover the base part with a piece of very thin leather to keep it from scratching a knife blade edit to add; Tandy has the rivet type https://www.tandyleather.world/products/sam-browne-buttons-washers?_pos=1&_sid=25db6ec99&_ss=r

A peg board is real handy. I have all those other storage thingies too but I have different sized wood pegs on the back-board and its dead handy for putting something up on instead of losing it in the junk, er. . . . on going projects on that bench whilst working on things

yaaay! I can cut the first notch on my eco-friendly fly eliminator. I got one real good this evening. I have the blud-lust now, just need more victims

, but one fly a plague does not make. By the time I got my swatter it had got trapped on the sticky fly-paper

How is it a fly can find its way into room thru a 1/4 inch hole but can't find its way out thru a door hole 6ft by 3 ft?

In the meantime, you can use them to put your cup of coffee on, close to hand whilst sewing

Read the instructions. ~It usually says to put the 'polish' into 5 L of water and apply with a mop. And to remove, use ammonia diluted in water to about 5% and to remove after about 5 coats have been used BTW this stuff is far cheaper than Resolene. 4 US ounce, about 118ml, of Resolene costs me about £6. I can get the Astonish for about £1 for 750ml. I use it on everything except floors! ~ as a wood varnish, on deer antler, on my plastic models, to make PVA glue waterproof and quick drying

I've had moderate success* with a floor 'polish' called Astonish here. In the US it sometimes goes under the name 'Mop & Glo'. It used to be called 'Future', or 'Klear'. Its not a floor polish but actually a water thin acrylic varnish. I've been using it now for a few years instead of Resolene, both as a general sealer and as a resist. Results on leathers can vary, on some leathers there has been absolutely no change in colour, on some the leather darkens a bit *I have no long-time results to see how well it works, except maybe one; I used Astonish on some shield straps to seal the leather, for easier cleaning. The leather did not noticeably darken very much, just very, very slightly. After about 3 years of use the straps were still bright and light except for the soiling through use

Wow-eee, that is so absolutely brilliant. Bette I instantly recognise, I don't know the other two but I guess you've caught their likeness very well too You appear to a have a talent for this

It was 20 years ago this date terrorists attacked the US Homeland That date changed the World forever. We do not live with the constant fear of terrorist attacks but we are more vigilant to them Today, at some time, spare a thought, and if it pleases you raise a glass, to the memory of ALL INNOCENT people who have been murdered by terrorists, both before and since 9/11 and to those who put themselves daily on the front line of the war on terrorists, many of whom have paid the ultimate price John ch.15 vrs 13

Don't pay too much for the flexi curvy thingy. Its nothing more than a piece of rubberised plastic with wire inside it. A piece of heavy duty electrical cable does the same job Not used on leather work but on other things I have a set of French curves which are of more use

That is really a most impressive bit of craftsmanship

My 'leather' scissors are not the speciality type sold by leather suppliers but just very tough high quality scissors. They are by Mundial^. They cost me £12 each and I've ended up with 3 (don't ask). These scissors can cut through thin sheet metal as well. For curves I don't do anything fancy, I just grab a plate, a bowl, a lid, anything that has the right curve to it, or even just fold a bit of card in half and cut a curve by eye, trimming it to tidy it maybe*. Then draw around it. Using a pen to mark the leather gives me a more solid line to follow. Also, as I'm very colour blind I cannot actually see a scratch mark on leather * if I'm going to make more of the same item I keep that card pattern shape ^ similar https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mundial-2-inch-Red-Dressmaker-Shears/dp/B0009VEM54

I mark the curve on the flesh side with a ball-point ink pen then I cut the curve with my leather scissors. They'll cut at least up to 4mm nicely. If necessary a swipe or wee bit of sanding with a coarse grade sand piper tidies the cut

Wash it all down again, and again . . . . with a very strong lemon juice solution

I'm not sure about this. About 15 -16 years ago #3 son and I managed to make some nfo and it was a slightly viscous liquid smelling very beefey. A bit like maple syrup in viscosity. A lot of effort to make about a 1/2 pint but we was learning to make stuff like that, and tallow candles and horn laterns and other weird stuff yes, I know whats in it cos I only apply what I make from raw ingredients

kinda off-topic I used to sell a lot of my beeswax/nfo/carnauba wax mix to an antique furniture restorer. He said it was the best polish he'd used for a long time. This guy was no amateur part-timer but one of the UK's best antique furniture restorers, used by museums, 'big' houses, action houses et al

As I pull the cutter along I also slightly turn the handle part into the uncut leather, I also push the leather forward into the blade and also the uncut area into the handle part of the cutter, just gently. Just enough to make the leather to handle a tight fit

These are only things. They can be replaced - you can't be Mainly though, are you and yours ok? enough good water and food?

The chemicals used in making dyes are among the chemicals under embargo by other countries signed up to the Western Powers controls