Primosand

are these newer white Seiko machines built in Japan or are these white ones made in China ? I always like to see a picture of the badge so we can see what it says. Also I tried to post a picture on here today but they all failed. I was only able to post a scream shot of the "failure message" I got each time trying to post a picture ??????????????

not bad, if you were in Los Angeles I take this off your hands. good luck

I've been looking for something like this but no price and no location. At least we know it's a sewing machine.

incredible offer ! I had to look it up just to see what exactly it is. This is just a random image not the actual machine in question. I just sent an email. thx

has this been sold ? whats the price if not?

Hi did this ever sell? Did it, or do Singer 7-11 in general have reverse ??? thx I just found one up for sale in my area

Constabulary thanks for your response but I don't understand what you are getting at. what is: (Not possible "afaik") The hand wheel turns just fine with or without the new speed reducer. Much to my apposite delight the hand wheel turns with very little effort at all (this is my 1st ever Adler, I've never even been in the same room as an Adler until this purchase.) A servo motor with a speed reducer pulley is how I set up all my industrial machines past and present. It makes the machine slow with additional torque. I works so well that on my Consew 226r I can watch thread being pulled through the eye of the needle as I sew (slowly) while allowing me to punch through just about anything. If I didn't explain why I want to disable the brake is it because this servo motor starts a speed of 500 rpm and goes up to maybe 4500. So when you start this motor you are already going a min of 500 rpm. That is unacceptable. I want to start at zero and slowly climb up to 500 or higher. (I have no need for speed). Removing or disabling the braking system on servos works great for me and the way I like to sew. My question is does anyone know how to disable the braking system on these Consew CSM3000 or similar 750 watt servo motor ???? thanks My question is does anyone know how to disable the braking system on these Consew CSM3000 or similar 750 watt servo motor ???? thanks

I see that this is an old thread. It deals with disabling the brake on the old style 550 watt servos which have a simple removable brake pad. I just aquired an Adler 220 76-273 and I'm adding a 750 watt servo and a 9" speed reducer. I bought a Consew csm-3000 for about $150. My problem with this new Censew CSM-3000 servo is the braking system. I want to disable it like I did on all of my Consew 550 watts servos (like the ones pictured above) but I cant figure out how to do it. these newer style 775 watt servos have I believe a magnetic brake rather then a mechanical brake pad of the older models. Has anyone figured out how to disable these magnetic brakes (if that's what is actually is) ??? Can anyone explain how to disable the braking system on these newer style 750 watt servos? Also I'd like to hear your opinion on ..... why they put these undesirable brakes on sewing machine servos this screen shot is what I bought or ordered off Amazon. But it's not quite what they sent me. this is what they sent me. It has four front buttons rather then two. so if you know how to disable the braking system on this type of 750 watts Censew servo motor please let me know. thanks

Well here's how it went down. Alder 220 76-273 in proper working condition coming home to Los Angeles Leatherworkers.net ....... Thanks for all the help

thanks for the help

shoepatcher kgg CowboyBob thanks for the input, it's very helpful. I tried to talk to the guy selling the Copper and he won't answer questions and just gets snotty. He just says drive down (3 hrs each way) and bring $3500 cash so that's a dead end. He's had it listed for sale for over 2 years. I just don't get it. MOVING ON .... This other Adler 220 76-273 has popped up in my area (5 hrs each way ) asking $4000 !!! I told him I was considering German precision/hard to get parts/part are expensive vs going with a used Japanese long arm like Seiko of Juki where parts are easily sourced and more affordable. I told him I'd think it over and get back to him. I'm worried I might be letting a good one get away if I don't grab this one. When he was at $4k I threw out $2k and that brought him down to $3k so now I'm considering offering $2500 (which I still think is too high) but these are supposed to be the best sewing machines ever made ....... right? I'll post the few pictures I have and would love to hear from anyone that knows Adler long arms and Juki and Seiko long-arms. What would the rest of you do ? walk away or pay up ? THANKS thanks for the help ..Japanese vs German)

SHOEPATCHER thanks for the help. I'm sorry that I didn't include the asking price. I thought I had, I usually do and I'm quick to jump on others for not including the price AND PICTURES !! So I apologize to everyone for "asking for help" and forgetting to include the price. The guy is asking $3500 So if I'm hearing you correctly this machine is a real (not a clone) "made in Germany or West Germany Adler" model number 221-76-73 that the now "out of business Copper Machine Company" may have modified. I really don't want to go way over my budget which is between $0 - $2000 for a long arm upholstery machine (I know that's a bit of wishful thinking but that's how I am = poor). But if this used cooper is a rare opportunity to buy a really nice, quality Adler long arm I'd be willing to spend what it takes. The fact that this is an original Adler and not a clone sounds very good to me. Shoepather what do you think of this asking price ($3500)? What does any one else that's interested think of the price ? Owe ? Wiz ? Cowboy Bob? I like to hear what others with different sewing experiences and skill levels think. thanks again everyone

Constabulary I'm not clear why you are considering this "soft start" for your servo. But if it is because your servo starts and stops abruptly I had this abrupt start/stop problem on my first and second servo motor. Both were Consew 550 watt servos. To get around this issue or to get the motor to start smoothly (stopping abruptly didn't really bother me) I opened up the end of the motor and disabled the little brake. I just took the brake pads out of the first one to see if that would fix the issue. It did. On the second servo (same brand and model) I think I took the arm off and that also worked. I use a speed reducer as well but now I can start out at apostate zero and feather it up to whatever sewing speed I need without any jump or lurch. Again I'm not sure this is what were were getting at but your question reminded me I needed to do this back when I switched to servo motors.

This is for sale on "offer up" in the Los Angeles area. The seller doesn't answer questions and just tells me I'll need to drive 3 hours each way and to come check it out (what a ing asshole). It looks to me to be a Adler clone but I'm not at all sure. If anyone knows something about Copper Machine Co. out of Chicago please let me know. Before driving 3 hours I'd like to know : *Is this an Adler clone and if so what is the Adler sub-model? *pressure foot lift height ? *needle size range ? (I use needles size 16 to #23 on my current Consew 226r) *thread size range ? (I currently us T70, T92 and occasionally T-138) *is it a triple feed or compound feed machine? (needle feed, alternating walking foot) thanks for your time

I've developed a thing for reversible linings reversible-linning-video=1.26min.mp4

No location and no pictures. I was interested so I looked a juki LU-2810. Apparently these sell new for considerably less then you're asking for your used machine. Sorry but no pictures really rub me the wrong way

I'm NOT a pro ..... But I can offer a few tips. I sew big heavy bags and backpacks for fun and I make and sew up Sunbrella canvas boat covers, biminis and boat upholstery for the well heeled. My go to machine is a Consew 226R with a 550 watt Consew servo motor and a speed reducer pulley. You can spot these machines a mile away. They all look the same regardless of who made them. They are still around because they are excellent, reliable, old school machines. But the older models have smaller bobbins. My Consew 226R still has the older smaller bobbin. Do a little research and figure out when the various brands started going to a bigger bobbin. Seiko, Juki, Consew. And it must be a compound feed machine. I paid $730 for my 226r had to fix a broken upper thread tension lever and added the servo and speed reducer pulley. Watch all of Uwe Groose's fix it videos you learn a lot about fixing things yourself. Good luck finding a new machine.

This post is clear as mud.

Uwe Groose is in Detroit. I'd buy a used machine off him before buying anything new.

Wow, very nice, such a deal. Sorry to hear about the bankruptcy, hope it doesn't land on you too much Uwe

Sorry you're right it says your son not your mom my mistake. Well done on the picture. Now I gotta see this fancy mini headrest that so complicated or I won't be able to sleep at night. Listen Jess I've now bought a lot of sewing machines both before and after going broke. Before going broke I would walk into a store, see a machine demo get impressed and "buy", pay top dollar or even extra top dollar for new machines that were good machines but not what I needed and not worth anywhere near what I paid. Now that I'm ..... lets say "short on funds" I am very careful with what I buy. I have to be. I sit at the computer and over time watch everything that is for sale .... everything. When I'm not on the computer I'm at my sewing machineS learning how in hell they were able to make these complicated Mini headrests because I can't afford to call the guy. The machines I buy now are exactly what I need and only what I need to do that complicated Mini headrest, or whatever I'm trying to learn. I take my time and watch a posted sewing machine ad for a while. Dose it get snapped up right away? If not the price will eventually drop. My twin needle Pfaff 142-6 was listed at $1200. I paid $450. These little domestic Pfaff machines 230-260 and 332-260 were $80 and $100 (fine little machines but NOT industrial leather machines). You just need to learn "what machines are really designed to do" and patiently wait for yours to come up for sale at a reasonable price. I'm in Los Angeles where there are probably a lot of machines but still I am amazed at how the right machine does come along for sale if you just patiently wait for it. I use craigslist, Offer-Up, Facebook and I watch estate sales (all online) Uwe Grosse makes YouTube videos (the best in the world) that will teach you how to fix, time and dial in your own industrial leather machines. He's a member here on this site and sells an occasional restored machine. "thesergeant" is another YouTube guy well worth checking out because he makes a lot of videos about a bunch of different machines and explains what each machine is capable of doing and how each compares to all his other machines. I like to put a 550 watt servo motor and a speed reducer pulley on my leather machines. Even if I hardly ever get a chance to do leather. It gives you quit, comfortable control and added torque. With my very limited sewing experience a clutch motor is just plain scary. Good luck and post pictures when you can. jeff

No PICTURES! (of the wrong machine you bought and your mom's mini) and no mention of what machine you bought. Youre not going to get much help with that approach. Before you hire someone to do the head rests look up a guy named "Cechafio" on YouTube. This is exactly what he does (car leather) and he has a bunch of good videos showing how he does it. Practice with fake leather a few times untill you figure it out. This will also teach you about what machine you should buy next. Good luck

I'd like to see what your new ideas for your motorcycle bags looks like. (pictures). I've just cleared my cutting table after doing of a batch of nylon bags for grocery shopping. They have outlawed single use plastic grocery shopping bag here in southern California. Now id like to get back to a leather bag. Probably a small, ladies backpack/purse type thing. Its still in my head. I've just got my new twin needle pfaff 142-6 set up with servo and a speed reducer so its ready to do leather. It came with 1/4 inch needle gage and I'm hioing that won't be too narrow. I also have a new $80 pfaff 230-260 that I got working and I'm very impressed with this little machine. I was able to put nylon webbing handles on my grocery bags using a "satin stitch" with that little machine. It did sound like I was running a lawn mower though. Let us see what you motorcycle bags look like ...... Pictures

very nice

Elizabeth, After contacting the Amazon seller "Zero Express" for a return authorization for the Consew 3000 (they email authorization and if you ask a free UPS shipping label) I sat down at my computer last night and ordered a new servo motor AND bit the bullet and ordered a $$$ speed reducer pulley. I bought the old style Consew Premier 550-1 with the finger dial on the body where you have to reach under the table to adjust speed. The cheapest SRP I could find was on Ebay : http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/302295377518?vectorid=229466&lgeo=1&item=302295377518&rmvSB=true It was $169.28 with California tax and free shipping !! The servo motor was only $105 with no tax and free shipping. I can't believe the Chinese or the US sewing machine import merchants can't flood the US with speed reducer pulleys on the cheep. So now I wait a week. I'll need to figure out what size my second belt will be and get that ordered. I have to drive an hour into the garment district in Los Angeles to buy these things but after the gas and $12 for parking it's usually cheaper to buy on Amazon. As for finding a reputable service guy. Don't waste your time or money. You need to learn to be your own "go to guy". I did. I fix my own machines now .... all of them. I've restored 4.5 domestic vintage machines (sold two and made money) and I fixed/replaced the "tension release slide arm" on my Consew 226. When I bought the 226 it was my 1st industrial machine and the seller/repair guy said it was in great shape and that he'd had gone through and fixed any and all issues and it would last me forever. I paid $730, it came with a Consew 550-1 watt servo and a clean, decent but not new table. (No locking caster wheels) When I realized the thread tension wasn't releasing when I lifted the presser foot I went on-line to see what was up. And lucky for me and you there was this guy "Uwe Groose " who makes the very best "how to fix your industrial sewing machine" videos in the world. His videos are so well done it made the repair look "doable ".... and it was. It is extremely satisfying to do your own repair work. When you do your own repair you know "what was really done" you know "what it really cost" AND "how your machine works". Others that helped with that repair was Gregg O'Neil at KeyStone Sewing Machines http://www.keysew.com/ who got me a Japanese made part after I bought a Chinese made replacement part that was junk. Constabulary and Wizcrafts are two more forum members that know their stuff and were willing to help. There are a lot of very experienced members on the Leatherworker.net forum and they've all been very willing to help "us" less experienced figure it all out so ..... ask your questions and learn to do it yourself. Tip number 1: Take a ton of pictures as you dismantle a machine to make a repair. enjoy your new machines.