bob21804

Thanks for the additional info. I've never tried beeswax, though I have read mention of it quite a bit. I'll have to search around for more info and give it a shot. It seems no matter how much I sand and burnish, I never quite get that perfect edge I'm striving for,

Very cool. I like that! A few questions... Your edge shown in the last pic looks perfect. Can you explain your process? It looks like you decided not to include a large pocket for bill - correct, or is it just not so visible in the pix? Any reason not to include it? What weights of leather did you use? I've never used horsehide. How does working with it differ from Vegtan cow? Very nice design and execution - Thumbs up! Bob

I only need one word, honestly. Wow.

Congratulations on the new shop, Black Dogg, It looks like a dream come true. I also love all the natural light and rustic feel. If I had a setup like yours, I don't think I'd want to leave it much. I have quite a lot of tools and supplies for a newbie, working out of a very small space, and hope to set up a small shop sometime in the next year. I set my hobby aside for a few years also, because I had to put everything away and take it all back out again to do any work at all. It was such pain, I didn't touch a project for about 3 years. This time it's all staying out no matter what. Congrats again, and here's to many hours of enjoyment working in your new space. Bob

Hi Murf. I've only been here a few months myself, but welcome to the forum. There's a lot of great leatherworkers here, who are very willing to help a newbie (assuming you may a newbie to leatherwork too) Bob

LOL. That reminds me - On the first wallet I made, for myself a few years ago, I stamped my initials upside down too. I still carry that wallet everyday. It's been at least 3 years and looks like it could last 10 more. I kind of wish it would wear out, so I'd have more of a reason to make myself a new one.

Absolutely, I've have done similar things! Just last night I dyed an item I'm making for a buddy THE WRONG COLOR! One thing I can promise - I'll NEVER stop making mistakes. Anymore, I bang my head on the table just once, decide if there's a reasonable and easiest way to fix it, then either do so or start over. It can be frustrating, but I try to just take it in stride and keep going.

Beautiful stuff as always, Monica. And again, inspires me to keep trying to improve.

Ahh, that's it Snubby - Just how I did it. Good to know info too, JLS. I like the idea of making up molds like this, and keeping them on hand, for sizes that will work on various/multiple projects.

Those dogs are gonna get big heads walking around in collars like those! Work like this always inspires me to keep stepping it up and improving. Looks great, dfensdorff. What did you change bout the way you are casing?

I don't have a lot of experience, but I have seen videos where people have used small nails or staples. They worked the wet leather as tight as possible against the form, then nailed or stapled close enough to hold it in place, but far enough away that it would be trimmed off after drying. The couple of times I wet formed a small pouch I accomplished the same thing by cutting a U-shaped piece of thin plywood just a little bigger than the wooden form, and used small clamps to hold it tightly in place instead of using nails or staples. Either way should work fine. Just make sure to cut your leather large enough to allow enough for forming and for trimming afterwards, I hope that helps, and maybe somebody with more experience will chime in with other suggestions.

I just saw them in Springfield Leather's website - called a "Tuck Lock", in the clasp section. There are a few variations. I want to get a few too. I picked up an old Jack Daniels Cigarette and lighter case that uses the same kind of clasp, at a flea market today, and I want to make something similar. Bob

Man, that's a pretty holster. I've checked out many of your holsters on your website - always beautiful work, and encourages me to keep practicing.

JSL, I'll check out the sable hair brushes next time I'm in Hobby Lobby. I stop by there quite frequently - love to use those 40% off coupons. Thanks for the suggestion. I imagine that stencil-making was tedious. And the final result would only be as good as the stencil produced. No doubt I'll be trying it sometime.... so much I want to do. I was also checking out a thread ( think in this section of the forums) on using a latex rubber to mask areas. I already plan to pick a bottle of that up during one of my Hobby Lobby visits soon. Victorl, I watched a Tandy tutorial on block dying a while ago, and did that on a couple items. I do like the way it looks, and that's partly what led me to trying an airbrush, which I just recently bought, and have used only very little so far. At this point, I think I'd use the airbrush rather that the block dying technique, and plan to start out with the most simple techniques (bases, gradients), and only go for the technique's like JSL is showing above, as my airbrushing skills improve. I'm thoroughly enjoying the process of developing all of the many skills involved in this craft. I wish I stuck with it a few years ago when I first started. I'm definitely sticking with it this time. Victorl, BTW, I like your specialty. I can relate. lol. But's it's gotten much better over the past couple months. Thanks, Bob

Martyn, Penquineer and Colt, thanks a lot for the additional input. Yes, that is the 3/8' letter set I used. Martyn, I agree that using a resist in the lower depressions and a darker color on the raised areas would look awesome. Unfortunately I'm beyond that point already, and unless I totally remade the strap - which I don't think I'm going to do, I'll have to try that another time - definitely on a practice piece first. I stopped at Hobby Lobby and a beauty supply store after work and picked up several fine brushes, and touched up what I already started. It does look considerably better, but still not perfect. This collar is for a buddy's dog and he'll be fine with it. (His eyes aren't any better than mine. lol.) I've done a few other items for him and he's been very pleased, even when I could see an issue or two with the final result. Today he told me he wants one more collar after I finish this one. (his 4th) In this case, I increased my lighting, cleaned the lens on my magnifying visor and wore that, and hit it again with the smaller brushes. I think I'm reasonably satisfied now. Also, I think just being in the right frame of mind and ready to work tiny areas will help me in the future. Penqineer and Colt, I like the way you both explained your methods, and that's pretty much how I proceeded today. Your descriptions are certainly helpful to me, and I'm sure others reading this thread too. Another thing that helped me was going over the letters two or three times, getting coverage in the tiny spaces that weren't fully covered the first time through. Thanks again to everybody who gave me advice. I really, really appreciate it. Bob

Bob, thanks for the suggestion, I have used the antiquing dye and highlighter in the past, but wanted to try out my airbrush this time rather than use a dauber or sponge. I'm pretty sure others, many times, use this thing called skill (which I apparently still lack. lol). Really, I do want to develop my skills, and I think it's important keep trying. Sandra, thank you so much for your suggestion too. I'm definitely going to see if I can pick up a few of those brushes tomorrow after work. I would imagine I can get them from a beauty supply store that's right next to hobby lobby, where I'm already planning to stop tomorrow. And you got me thinking... those women who do that stuff on fingernails do some really detailed work. Maybe I need to go get my nails done and take note. lol. But don't they also use a lot of decals?? Anyway, I think you suggestion is great. Thank you. Any other thought, or ideas would be great (anybody) I really appreciate the help I get here. This forum and the people in it, are the best. Bob

Thanks for the suggestion, Martyn. I do wear glasses and sometimes they don't seem to be enough for up-close work, so I also keep one of those magnifying visors, and magnifier than clamps to my glasses, but sometimes they both seem to blur things more than they helps. I didn't use either of them this time. I also have, out in my garage, one of those larger, lighted magnifiers that I might be able to clamp to my work table. Maybe one of those would have helped this time. I'm also wondering if there are techniques, tips/tricks, particular brushes, or anything else others have used along the way that has helped them improve with this. I've seen a lot of pics here in the forums where people have done beautiful, precise designs with nice straight, clean edges between colors. I certainly need to improve. Thanks again for your suggestion. Bob

OK, I can't be the only one whose had problems with this. I was working on a dog collar for a friend, and stamped in the dog's name using Tandy's 3/8" Ensemble Alphabet Stamps. I wanted to dye the letters a darker brown to contrast the saddle tan strap. I used my new airbrush (I'm an airbrush newbie too) for the base collar and wanted to brush inside the letters. I'm using Eco-flo dyes. The collar was looking pretty good until I tried to dye inside the stamped letters. I tried a tiny brush, and even trimmed the bristles when I started having trouble keeping the dye were I wanted it. In spots the coverage isn't heavy enough to be uniform, and other spots I managed to go outside the edge. Overall, it's not pretty. I tried taking my time, using lots of light, but I ended up feeling like there has to be a better way. so what do you guys and gals do to ensure this type of thing doesn't end up looking like the work of a 3rd grader?

Jim, Thanks so much for the very handy chart. I'm pretty new still, and have made about a dozen belts, and have fumbled with a couple of the measurements you included. At times I've cut both ends (from the last hole to the tip and from the buckle slot to the end) a little short. Your chart clears this up for me. I really appreciate it. Bob

That's the great thing about custom work. She'll LOVE it, and she'll always remember you made it for her.

Thanks for sharing that... just goes to show, life and being rewarded is about more than making money. Thumbs up.

Daggit! ya know, I placed my order right after my last post - wanted to get it in early so I should receive it before the long Good Friday weekend. And I saw that brick red, and thought about it, but didn't get it. I will next time! I do intend to have fun. I can't have any fun doing it, I'll do something else!

Alex, thanks for the input. I appreciate it. I've read some of your posts in other threads about airbrushing and checked out some of your work that you've posted in the group and in your websites - Some beautiful stuff there. And yes, I can control the psi on my compressor. Anyway, sounds like I shouldn't have any real issues, dependent on which dyes I choose, so unless I get comments to the contrary very soon, I'll go ahead and order a few colors in the Fiebing's and/or Angelus and just get to playin'. For anyone experienced in airbrushing with waterbased dyes - do you clean your airbrush with just water, a special cleaner, or a combination? Bob

A couple more questions regarding learning to airbrush. I think I want to stick with using dyes, rather than paints (at least for now). My fear is that paints are only on the surface and won't penetrate the leather as well, therefore more likely to wear off. Maybe it would make sense to try paints too, in the future, but only on items that wouldn't see regular use/wear. Is this a valid thought, or am I off the mark here? Also, I've been using mostly Tandy Eco-Flo dyes, and more recently some Fiebing's - all the more earth tone colors - tans, browns and black. I haven't yet experimented with any of the brighter colors, such as blues, greens, reds, yellows, etc. But now that I picked up the airbrush, I'm ready to start trying more color too. I'll be ordering from Springfield Leather within the next couple days and I see they sell Fiebings and Angelus brands that look like they'll fit the bill. I'm wondering if either one would be a better choice, specifically with airbrushing in mind, though I'm sure I'll use them without the airbrush too. I'm wondering if either one would thin out easier/better. Or maybe there are considerations I;m not even thinking about. Do you have a preference? If so, why? Thanks in advance for any input you can offer. Bob

Springfield Leather sells the material for that. It's under the "manmade materials" section of their website, called Clear Plastic, 16 gauge. Bob