CowboyBob

20-30 yrs ago all we had to sell were the Adlers & Juki's @ around $4,800.00 now let me ask..how many people here would pay that much for a 12" machine today? WHEN you can buy a machine for 1/2 the price w/a 16" arm that still will sew as thick as the Adler or Juki?Price sells I haven't sold a new Juki or Adler in maybe 7 yrs. 8 yrs ago I had some used Juki 441's & we sold the for $3,500.00 ea(they were real nice)but I doubt if I could get that for them today. SO the big question will the new Chinese machine last like the old Singers,Juki's & Adlers,only time will tell but if they last for 25yrs you'd still be ahead of the game. It would be great if somehow machines could be made here & they can except I'm 100% positive they would be at least $6,000.00 or more & considering Adlers aren't selling @ $5,000.00 anymore I don't think it's worth trying to build machines here. It also seems like most people are shopping price nowadays too.Heck I can't even sell a good used home machine for $50.00 because Walmart has new clunkers for $69.00 they won't last 6mon & people realize what they get after they take it back a couple of times or call me & I tell them I can't work on them because I know how there built & know they'll bring it back in a couple of days.needing retimed. There is difference in quality of machines coming from China & Walmart sells on price only,along with alot of the machines on ebay are the low quality type. & most Dealers on this board are selling quality machines that have been checked over before they are shipped. SO that's my $.02 Bob

The problem was the fact that it wasn't threaded correctly so it jammed up the hook.What you need to do them is put some oil on the part were the hook & the bobbincase slide & it rock the machine back & forth & it will free up.Right now since you had the needle plate off you need to realign the bobbincase's little tab of metal in the slot under the needleplate. and hope it's still in time.You should never take the hook out for any reason,it's hard for most people to get it back properly in time .So get the bobbincase lined up & see if it'll pickup the bobbin thread. After you thread the machine,put the foot down & see if the tension is so tight that you can barely pull the thread,then holding on to the needle thread make one turn of the handwheel towards you & the bobbin thread should come up,then holding the needle thread for the first couple of stitches see if it'll sew. Bob

Steve, If your talikng about the old machines,I don't have any spare parts.We even had to make bobbins for the 47's we extended the 7 class bobbins.I'll have to poke around the Smithsonian .

Years ago we had some K5's so maybe a K3 is for ropes-I've never seen one & didn't even hear of a K3 B4. Bob

Steve, There used to be a factory in town here that made vinyl for auto upholstery & they had machines like that one to join the backing material of the vinyl together @ the end of the roll. Here's a pic of a Gritzner I picked up a few months ago & I had it sewing,I think it's for leather as it has around 3/4" lift under the foot. Bob

push the stitch length button down & turn the machine until it goes in the groove,it(the button) goes down a little more you need to hold the button down(so it's in the groove) as you turn the handwheel towards you to make the stitch length longer. Bob

Steve, Here's one for you a 98-3,made in 1915 for booting tires.I copied the manual off Singer's site & it shows the stitching on the side of a tire.This machine is very similar to a 97.Except it has reverse. Bob

That's a nice looking 47K you got there.It's probably a K5,I've had a few in the past & just missed buying one cheap a couple of months ago.Be careful with her as parts are like hens teeth. Bob

Steve, Your asking about a Singer 3,I have a few myself along with it's little brother & sister machine. I did have the 3 sewing alittle but the tension seemed to be a problem. Bob

Yes,$65.00 Bob

Hello Sandy, I'm glad it worked out for you & thanks for letting us know. Bob

Ken, That's the max it should handle w/o any major work. Bob

Wow,a 132 K6 isn't even worth $1,200.There's a fellow in town here that advertises $19.95 in home service call to clean,oli & adjust.I have never heard of anyone paying that little,9 out of 10 times he tells people he has to take it back to the shop & call w/a est..Then they call here & ask if it's worth $125.00 to replace the worn out bearings in their machine.So I tell them I've never seen the bearing wearout in a home machine ^ they say that's what he's told them.So when they say no I don't want it fixed he takes it back & charges them $50.00 & the machine still doesn't sew?!?! So I guess there's con artist everywwhere. Bob

I looked @ the pic again & am thinking Trox could be correct,the lube pot looks like Adler,but I didn't know the old Adlers used the spoked wheel.We don't have many of these old Adlers here in the states.The stitch length & bobbin winder looks like Singer,but the top tension doesn't look like Singer. SO be sure to let us know some serial & or part # off the machine if you go to look @ it or even ask him & it might help to identfy it's brand. It sure looks like it's been repainted because the legs & underneath look black. Bob

You made a good choice to stay away from that machine,it's a double needle,look how big the feet are,you would never be able to sew close to a buckle & with the bottom feed like it has would leave teeh marks. I have seen alot of people buy machines like these just because they were big & heavy they thought they would be good for leather & then find out the limitations afterwards. THEN they want to trade them in for something that will do the job. Bob

mncarpenter, We have a roller foot available that might help make a little less marking on the bottom because it allows the leather to feed through with less drag. Bob

How much do Adlers sell for in Holland?It should sew 10-12 mm easy.No reverse,it takes the same needles,bobbins & shuttle as an Adler.Years ago we used to get parts in England for them. Bob

The reason you'll need a longer needle is because it will hit the foot(@BDC) on anything over 1/2,maybe 5/8" thick.You will have to adjust the needlebar when you get it back together anyways.The way to time it is have the eye of the needle approx 1/8" below the point of the hook when it passes. I checked & found some needles,the 1001D#280 & have some 1000H#230 too. Bob

That's a pretty cheap price,I'd pay that for it as long as nothing else is missing,is the shuttle in it?Bobbns & needles shouldn't be to hard to get. Bob

It looks more like a singer 45K to me than an Adler.Yes,it should sew 8mm & use a heavy thread,much heavier then your 145. Bob I don't know if you know it but the foot lifting bar for the pressure foot is missing on the back so you'll only have the hand lifter to raise the foot unless you but or have someone make the part you need. Bovb

I don't know if they are in production anymore but we used to use 1001D-Diamond point & have some left in a size#280.They measure 31/2" long or 9cm Bob

Years ago we used to modify alot of these 7Class Singers,we would take all the parts off the needle bar end,put the head in a band saw & cut off approx 3/8" off the lower part of it(so the feet & needle can clear).Then braze in part of the slot(at the bottom) in the lifter handle bracket so it can lift up more & we could get 1" real easy,THEN you have to find a longer needle to be able to sew the thickness.We used to use the 1000H,which I've heard is getting hard to find & is not available in a leather point.There's also a 1001 that is long you might be able to find. I just checked & found some 1001D(Diamond point)in a size 280 & some 100H in a size 230 the 1000H measures 33/8" long & the 1001 is 31/2". Let me know if you have any questions. Bob

Your Welcome,I'm glad you got it going. Bob

you loosen the wing nut & slide the triangle piece towards the center of the machine.This pushes the foot spring up & down. You won't find repair manuals on machines because yrs ago Singer wanted you to call the repairman to fix it & alot of times you almost have to see the machine to know what's wrong with because some thing affect others & it's hard to explain it all.

On the back of the machine on the end of the leaf spring for the foot pressure there's wing nut that goes into a triangle looking piece of metal this controls the foot lifting,the more you push away from the end of the spring the more it should lift up. Bob