CowboyBob

With the needle bar all the way down,the point of the hook on the right side should be @ approx. 7:00 position.Or if you drew a line from the center of the bobbincase to the front throat plate screw the point should be right under it(with the needlebar all the way down)Then you can set the spacing as of the hook as close to the needles as you can get & then make sure the needles are set so the top of the eye is a good 1/16 of an in below the hook point as it meets the needle.

Do you know to pull up the bobbin thread up through the feed dog before you start to sew?

The button on the left is the stitch length,the button on the right is for when the clutch kicks out,the big loops could be do to improper threading,also hold the needle thread the first 3-stitches

I just checked & all we have is #22 in D point,the problem is with this needle is since it's so long it will bend & break aolt easier esp in the smaller sizes,now if you are always sewing thinner leather you can lower the needle bar down & you the shorter more common 135x16

Can you post a pic of the way your threading it?

the "R" is a round point & the LR is a left twist that will give a zig-zag look,we do have some "D" points in stock that will make a nice looking straight stitch.

Hello John,Give us a call tomorrow we have them.

Yes,it will sew the thinner leather,try doing a search here for 31-15 (which is the same machine just different bobbin size)We do stock all the parts needles & thread for it.

You can also put the other screw(on the collar of the handlifter) in the groove & pull the lever foward to lift.

Dwayne, I never heard of a list for the serial#for the Landis one.I think I heard once they quit making them around 1910.

It's already a stretch to get it to sew 207,the tension needs to be tigthed alot,so 277 won't work.It would be nice if it could but they would be prone to jamming & breaking threads.

I thought I had a pic of how we mount them but I must of gotten deleted.When mounting the guide,if you try to keep it to the left & still stay on the flat part of the casting you be ok,just drill only as deep as you need to maybe 13mm,it is pretty thick there.Let me know if you have anymore questions.We took a pic.

Your welcome & let me know if you need anymore help.

Maybe this will help http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/230.pdf

Yes,the only manual on Consews site is for the current 206RB-5 everthing is the same but the stitch length adjuster & the RB-5 also has an better oiling system.

This is the older model 206RB-1,parts are still readily available for it.

I made a 220v.3-phase converter out of an old 3-phase motor to run our mill.We had to mount a 110v starting motor on a board & belt it up to the old 3-phase & we turn the 110 on to spin the 3-phase then turn the 220 on & shut the 110 motor off the 220 motor keeps running & will run our mill.

We used to have a couple of commercial laundries that would darn men's work shirts & pants a few yrs ago.But they aren't repairing them that way anymore so I guess it shouldn't be worth anymore than $100.00 Back maybe 10 yrs ago I could of sold it for an easy $5-600.00

It's a darner used for mending shirts & pants,it has no feed dogs so you have to move the material around.Some of the parts will fit a 227 or 153,like the hook which sellls for $95.00 new,the hook gears & even the hook saddle will fit & the tension unit.

Richard,I'm glad I'm able to help you and thanks for the order.

We have the needles in stock.

We have them in stock.

We also either side with a smooth bottom,those teeth will mark leather.

We had a customer binding carpet yrs ago that wanted to sew so fast it was burning the thread when they stopped,we made these up & they worked.It will use alot of air but you can vary the pressure w/a valve.

All you need to do is get air on the needle toards the top blowing down,you can get a piece of copper tubing (small 4mm) fasten to side of machine & aim the air towards the needle.