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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. CowboyBob
    We used to have a couple of commercial laundries that would darn men's work shirts & pants a few yrs ago.But they aren't repairing them that way anymore so I guess it shouldn't be worth anymore than $100.00 Back maybe 10 yrs ago I could of sold it for an easy $5-600.00
  2. CowboyBob
    It's a darner used for mending shirts & pants,it has no feed dogs so you have to move the material around.Some of the parts will fit a 227 or 153,like the hook which sellls for $95.00 new,the hook gears & even the hook saddle will fit & the tension unit.
  3. CowboyBob
    Richard,I'm glad I'm able to help you and thanks for the order.
  4. CowboyBob
    We have the needles in stock.
  5. CowboyBob
    We have them in stock.
  6. CowboyBob
    We also either side with a smooth bottom,those teeth will mark leather.
  7. CowboyBob
    We had a customer binding carpet yrs ago that wanted to sew so fast it was burning the thread when they stopped,we made these up & they worked.It will use alot of air but you can vary the pressure w/a valve.
  8. CowboyBob
    All you need to do is get air on the needle toards the top blowing down,you can get a piece of copper tubing (small 4mm) fasten to side of machine & aim the air towards the needle.
  9. CowboyBob
    Ian,the one on the left is called a zipper foot,for sewing next to zippers,it can also be used for sewing close to things like buckles,spots & were ever the right toe would be in the way.
  10. CowboyBob
    Here in the states we have what's called oil dry used to clean up oil on floors,spread it around & sweep it up should absorb the oil,it is like kitty litter (which might work too)
  11. CowboyBob
    You can use 277,346 & 415.
  12. CowboyBob
    Yes,the 42-5 bobbins will work,the Siner #7 class walking feet will work,you should be able to use up to #346 nylon thread & sew to 3/8" or alittle more.
  13. CowboyBob
    The longer arm stands are 7" longer,if you mount the long arm stand on the short base the leg on the left end will be between your legs & you have the make up some mounts becasue the bases where the machine mounts is also longer on the long arm.
  14. CowboyBob
    We always used the 135x17for cloth & webbing,or 135x16D for leather,you might have to drop the needlebar down alittle.
  15. CowboyBob
    Quite a few years ago I had one of these I couldn't sell so I cutoff the top of the feed dog & welded the top of one from a GA-5 on it,Adler had the parts back then but it was around $4-500.Then I made a GA-5 plate fit (had redrill the holes & after some more grinding & tweaking it sewed 1/2 "I managed to sell it then.Trox is right you'll have to stop the top feed to make it reverse,cut the slot in the plate longer so it can go up, it would work better (reverse ) if you put a roller foot on it.
  16. CowboyBob
    To make the needle plate work,the back hole in the plate needs to be drilled,the shuttles don't interchange either,the bobbins are the same,the feed parts interchange.The feed dog will work as long as you have the correct one as it may have been changed over the years(they must of had over 50 different combos for these 45K's)
  17. CowboyBob
    That looks like an Adler 105-25 mo made for sewing mocassins,you can adjust the top feed to go shorter than the bottom to get a shirring effect.This machine might sew to 3/8" thick max.but you can use heavy thread up to #346.Value I wouldn't think it would be worth much over $800.00.HTH
  18. CowboyBob
    Ferg, That's a real nice looking stand you made.Were you able to get it sewing?
  19. CowboyBob
    It wil get tight when the hook grabs the thread,do you know you need to hold on to it(the needle thread) for the first 3 stitches.Then it will hold it's self atfer that,as you sew heavier & thicker you might need more tension.If you have any try some nylon like # 207 or 277 & see what happens.
  20. CowboyBob
    Is your foot lifting wth the needle & leather as the needle is pulling out of the leather? Or do you hear a squeaking noise?If so tighten the foot pressure more to hold the leather down.
  21. CowboyBob
    Did you wrap the thread around the 2nd tension(on the side) 1 & 1/2 times?
  22. CowboyBob
    We used to do these all the time,you won't need any parts,just braze in about 1/2" of the slot on the piece of metal on the hand lifter & the when you lift up the foot you'll see where it'll be hitting when you turn the machine over by hand.Then take it apart & grind it so you have clearance.The problem is you need a longer needle like the 1000H which isn't made in a leather point(I'm assuming you want to sew leather)
  23. CowboyBob
    The 111w155 is a little better than the 111w154 & they both work better than a 211 for sewing leather since they have a larger handwheel on them.But I'd buy it for $100.00 myself.You can never have to many machines.
  24. CowboyBob
    Back when this machine was made all they had was cotton & linen thread that required it to be lubed.With todays nylon & polyester thread it isn't required (thread lube) You can run through one of the holes of you want but you don't need to.
  25. CowboyBob
    That looks like a single needle machine to me & the Singer 145 is a double needle that takes a shorter needle.How long is the needle you are using?
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