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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. Where the ridges form is on to of the slot on the shafts.Is the single screw in the back loose?If so sometimes the careful use of a hammer & old flat screwdriver or punch will break it loose,hitting it from the inside.
  2. On the 111w155 there's a collar on the bearing on the inside that has 2-screws in it that you need to loosen too,are they loose?.Before you try to slide it off you should look for high spots where the screws go & file them off & the bearing will slide of easier.That's usually why the wheel is hard to pull off because the screws loosen & then they burr up the shaft as people sew on it.
  3. Don't expect to sew anything thicker than chaps with # 69 thread.They were made for sewing shirts,dresses & thinner material.
  4. Sure, we have needles ,thread & parts for it.
  5. It will use #138 & #22 needle & sew around 20 oz or 5/16".
  6. Yes,I'm almost certain since you said your sewing along & it jams it leads to to believe that either your needle thread isn't threaded correctly OR your upper tension is to loose.So make sure your going around the second tension 1 & 1/2 times. Please give me a call if you need more help.Also hold onto the thread the first 3 stitches.
  7. The 227R uses the same threading as above,very common to alot of different models of machines.
  8. You might want to check the shuttle & see if it is loose.Sometimes you can take it out(it's held on by 2-screws)& take the spring & ring off the back & clean it out,oil it & see what happens.
  9. Are the 16x257 needles the same length as the ones that work?Are you putting the long groove on the left?
  10. This is a very early unimproved model of machine that can barely sew 2 layers of shirt weight material.I wouldn't think of even trying leather on it.There is no way it'll live up to the story someone said about it sewing bridles & I'm willing to bet that is why they bought it & found out otherwise.
  11. I'd like to see a pic of it?
  12. It takes a needle & awl machine to punch through tugs like a Lands#3,Randall or Champion.
  13. Maggie, You need to double check the model # of your machine,I think you have a LU562?When you reset the clutch you push the button on the rightside down & turn the handwheel backwards.Also when you go to sew you need to make sure the bobbin thread is above the needle plate & pulled to the back & hold the needle thread when you start sewing for the first 3-stitches(to prevent looping underneath)
  14. I think that is an older european type of size for cotton thread that isn't used anymore.Maybe someone across the pond might know.
  15. No,it won't handle #138,this machine is very similar to a Singer 241,251,281 only it has reverse.You might be able to use #92.
  16. Hey Mike glad to see your back.
  17. What no stand?
  18. Anytime they write "cheap as chips" I would run.What a sales pitch?(LOL) Looking at the panel is has it might have a 220 v motor & this model #463 is a light duty machine that if your real lucky might sew alittle more than 1/4" leather with a small #69 thread.
  19. Tom, The parts haven't been available for years.Campbell-Randall in Texas might have some parts they can make.If you go to the auction ask where they bought this machine,Also can you get me a pic of the stand? Thanks
  20. They make a real nice stitch just like most needle & awl machines,you will pay dearly though for any parts it might need.In good decent condition it should sell for over $2,500.00. Good Luck
  21. Those are available generic for around $20.00
  22. It is a 31-19 because it has the walking feet on it,the other ones just have a roller or flat foot.It was made for sewing multiple plies of lightweight canvas & leather.
  23. That is a 31-19 & any manual for a 31 would work,it takes the 16x2 leather needle can use #92 or #138 thread.
  24. It looks like you might be using a TRI point,try either a D or S point & it'll look alot nicer.
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