CowboyBob

You have some good susgestions here already but,I'd like to add one more,watch the thread as your sewing between the thread stand & machine to see if it ever looks like it tightens ,once in a while a spool is defective & as it comes off the spool esp on the bottom it gets pinched & causes this problem.

So what he needs to do is spray some penetrating fluid around the button,go underneath & push it up & then push it down from above to get the fluid worked into it.

I have one in my collection that I got to make some stitches.I'll have to get my camera over here & take a pic of the threading for you.

It isn't the best for leather & the price is alittle high.It has an outside foot that has teeth on it that grips the leather as the feed dogs pull back.These teeth will leave marks.A walking foot needle feed machine will work better for you.

Yes,the needles now have the scarf in them.

That adjustment is for the front to back of the hole.Is your feed dog loose?

There is nothing in that part of the machine that would adjust the needle to the right,only front to back.Is there any left to right play in the needle bar?Sometimes this model can get play (left to right) in the feed dog,the track the feed dog slides in may need adjusted.

I got a good buy on some 29x3,that's all that's on the box they are Groz-Beckart,but they are really 135x17 they have the scarf on them.It is my opinion that with this scarf that the 135x17,16 has is that you can move the needle closer to the shuttle for less chance of shipping stitches. To my knowledge there is no more 29x3,4 left.We have been selling them 135x16,17 for years instead & they work.

Here's some directions,you only have 5 seconds to complete your task or you have to start back @ the beginning.

The stitch length is the square thing just above the foot,the lower you adj it the longer the stitches.The knurled screw is the foot pressure adj.,the wingnut lifts the foot so it clears the leather as it goes foward.You can usually push the wingnut part as far towards the center of the spring as it will go & leave it.You might need to get a new foot as the teeth get dull after while.

The best thing to do is take some samples of what you want to sew & try it out to make sure it'll handle it ok.

This model 28 is the same as a Singer 78-1 or-3 machine.It should sew the same as a 31-15 up to 5/16" around 20 oz of leather,it would be good for wallets,chaps & etc.

Either the thread isn't under the bobbin tension spring or the bobbin needs more tension or the spring needs to be replaced.

You have to take off the back cover plate & tighten the screw in this pic just alittle.

When you start sewing with the 346 it will have a tendacy to jam easier than thinner thread so you need to be sure to hold it(needle thread) the first 3-stitches.You will usually have to tighten the upper tension alittle when going to a larger thread. The screw that holds the race on you titghten all the way then loosen 1/2 turn,also make sure the give the shuttle some oil in the groove it runs in everytime you sew & everytime you change a bobbin.

If I remember correctly the stitch length is around 3 pr in.thread size up to#138

Myles,you might need to loosen the bobbin tension alittle.Here's a threading diagram.

Check for grooves in the thread guides were the thread rubs against them,burr on tip of hook,hole in bottom of inside foot could have a groove.

A sewing machine in a leather shop is one of the most important tool.Alot of the used machines like the old Singers were great in the day.We used to sell alot of them but parts aren't available for most of them anymore so we quit selling them for that reason,I don't want to sell boat anchors.Also 20-30 yrs ago all you could buy was a Ferdco for $6-7000.00 or an Adler around $5,000.00 so to get a new machine for 1/2 that is a bargain that alot of people don't realize.I know it's alot of $$ to someone starting out but it's a very important time saver to have a good realible machine & esp one that you can buy parts for 5-10 yrs down the road.I've had people tell me they've paid for their machine in 3-6 months from the orders they sold.

Where the ridges form is on to of the slot on the shafts.Is the single screw in the back loose?If so sometimes the careful use of a hammer & old flat screwdriver or punch will break it loose,hitting it from the inside.

On the 111w155 there's a collar on the bearing on the inside that has 2-screws in it that you need to loosen too,are they loose?.Before you try to slide it off you should look for high spots where the screws go & file them off & the bearing will slide of easier.That's usually why the wheel is hard to pull off because the screws loosen & then they burr up the shaft as people sew on it.

Don't expect to sew anything thicker than chaps with # 69 thread.They were made for sewing shirts,dresses & thinner material.

Sure, we have needles ,thread & parts for it.

It will use #138 & #22 needle & sew around 20 oz or 5/16".

Yes,I'm almost certain since you said your sewing along & it jams it leads to to believe that either your needle thread isn't threaded correctly OR your upper tension is to loose.So make sure your going around the second tension 1 & 1/2 times. Please give me a call if you need more help.Also hold onto the thread the first 3 stitches.