CowboyBob

Hello Doc, Thanks for the update & it sounds like your keeping that Cowboy busy!!

Yes,it should work for what your sewing.This machine would sew the same as 111w or Consew 225,226 only it has a cylinder arm. The walking foot would be the better of the 2.

Looks like a real nice one......now!! That pink is real bright,I guess in a shop window it would sure stand out.

Hello CD,it was good to finally meet you I was hoping you'd come around & we could talk some more,but I know how it goes everybody gets busy & then it's time to leave. I thought there was quite a few less people at the show,the aisles weren't as thick w/people as previous years.but I like to go & meet people & see new things at the show. I agree they should include holsters,belt makers & general leathers maybe that would help the show to do it?As long as it's leather related it should be included in the show.

Maybe he's talking about how deep you can go in the arm,because they will only sew 3/4" thick max.They weigh around 550Lbs

Good choice,you'll get a lot less marking on the bottom side with the 206 than a machine like the 1182 because they have a needlefeed.

I have a couple that sew great I'd sell for $750.00 ea.They only have a 4" workspace,they do make a real nice looking stitch because they have a needle & awl.They would make a great holster or knife sheath machine.

I was thinking about the hammer & maybe I shouldn't have warned you because I know where you can get a real nice shiney NEW machine that will sew leather.So beat away!

The wheel needs to be against the body so there is no gap, when you get rid of the gap,the knock will go away.When your sewing & the takeup lever pulls the thread up it makes the shaft the wheel is mounted on go left & right.All machines with the takeup lever on the end will knock if there.'s side play on the top shaft.Push & pull on the wheel & you'll hear it.Also I know it's your machine & you can do whatever you want BUT you need to put the hammer outside far away from you,parts for this machine are real hard to find.

Ok,take the needle out,find some wood like a 2x4 or something & put it under the needlebar & use it as a stop,hold it careful & turn the wheel which ever way it takes to get it to spin towards the grooves on the shaft.

There's 2-screws on the wheel to the shaft,if you get the other one loosened it should sin on the shaft,if not & we'll go to plan B.

Constabulry is probably correct on the if the top shaft has side play the inside of the wheel will hit like that, loosen the 2-screws that hold it tight to the shaft just 1/4 of a turn & then tighten the larger screw in the center of the wheel (on the out side) to take the side play out of it.Don't overtighten the large one to much.

I'll have to agree with Constabulary they really aren't that hard to work on & you can get parts machines @ Weavers auction for less than $100.00.I just sold 4-of these yesterday,it seems like I can never get time to work on them & a guy kept asking about them so it looks like they are going to a good home.When adjusted properly they make a real nice looking stitch as all needle & awl machines do.

It's a good price BUT parts are hard to get,we do stock needles & awls.

Frank, I'm glad to hear you have it going,We used to sell the motor w/o brushes & it is harder to adjust & doesn't seem to have the low end torque like this one.I know SV stands for special version BUT I've never seen anything from Singer explaining it.I've looked & machines before & found what the difference in they also have the 144 with SV on them.You have to put your machine side by side with another 153 & look @ every part.I think sometimes the engineers @ Singer had to look busy so they did things like this.

Yes,it sounds like somebody locked it down,since there's a lockwasher on it.I think this came from a Singer 107W & the parts may be alittle different but it's all I could find so I scanned it.You can push the adjuster all the way in & then turn the B screw in & out.

Maybe this cutaway diagram will help.It pivots on screw D because of the spring .Are the threads broken on the shaft for the stitch length adjuster?You have to pull the whole shaft out.It's either that or you need to take out screw A & turn screw B in more to contact the adjuster shaft.

I don't like it either & sent him a note telling him so.I think it might be somebody from the factory too.But I'll find out if he writes me back.

We have them in stock.

When the bolt is tight the piece under it needs to move freely.

Frank, Your Welcome. You might want to pull the clutch button out & see if there's some dirt under it keeping it from going all the way down.

It is one of 2 things.Either the threads are broken on the end of the shaft or it just needs adjusting on the cam(see attached file) You can pull the stitch adjuster knob out & look @ the threads on the topshaft.Or you can just push the adjuster all the way in & use the screws in the diagram to adj the stitch length.Someone may have these turned out some,or maybe the shorter cscrew is missing aloowing the other one to back out do to viabration of running the machine.

Thanks Wiz!!

Ok,when your on our website,go to the 3500 or 4500 page on the lower left in the gray area it says accessories click on that & you can see the pics & prices of them. For some reason I can't cut & paste with this laptop on this site.

No,Singer never made a machine like this,Juki did though.What type of foot are you having trouble finding?We have a lot of them in stock.