CowboyBob

We have needles & awls for the Champion & they also fit the landis #3 & 16 BUT they won't work in all of the ASN's,they are alittle larger & won't fit in all the machines so I don't try selling them for ASN.I forgot about New England Needle I know they sell Groz-Beckart & would probably have a better price than Pilgrim.

Try Pilgrim Shoe 800-343-2202

Hey Colt, That's what happens in leatherworking,you end up finding thicker projects to sew.At least if you get a bigger machine you'll have the best of both worlds & be able to use #69 & 92 w/o any trouble on the 206RB & then use the larger #138& up on the bigger machine. It is pretty hard to adjust the big machine to use 69 & 92. HTH Bob

Are you using a leather point needle?I don't know which foot a 2318 takes either but like Constabulary said post a pic & I'm sure we can help you.

& we had a problem with the connecter not holding,so we just stick with selling the leather belting.

Yes,the 206 has a larger bobbin,it is also easier to adjust the stitch length than on the 226.

On these 211's there should be a button to adjust the amount of lift the feet have.It's on the top cover of the machine,right in the middle,it's black & it works like the stitch length,you push the button down & turn the machine until the button goes into a groove,keep holding it down & turn the handwheel towards you to make the feet lift higher.

You have a needlefeed machine,the material is getting caught at the back of the needle plate,there is a sharp edge(on the top from left to right about 1/4" across)) that can be filed off & it will prevent the material from getting caught.

We stock them down to size #18

We do have some in stock too.And do to all the calls we've been getting have a large order of poly thread coming in Dec.We will be stocking the same colors as the nylon.In sizes 138,207,277 & 346.

That bolt adjusts the brake,if the travel of the pedal gets to be to much from stop to go you can turn this in to decrease it.It needs to be done after while because both the brake pad & clutch that makes it run are made of cork & as you use the machine they wear alittle making them thinner.

Some of them have a 2nd button on the top to adjust the height of the foot walk. The single button isn't the best idea on these because they do tend to knock the clutch out easier when you change the stitch length.But you are correct in saying they get gummed up & sometimes putting some oil or penetrating fluid on the stitch length cam underneath will help to free it up. I just worked on one a couple days ago that the clutch was kicking out all the time & had to tighten the adjustment on it.

I don't know what is wrong but for some reason I can't copy & paste into a post like this & only on this site.So I sent a PM.of the parts manual.

There is 3-screws in the end of the 211 lower clutch pulley that set the tension that it takes before it kicks out.When you look @ the pulley from the side you see them,to adjust it take out the short lock screw & turn the other screw in a couple of turns,do this to all 3.Then itwill take more force to kick it out you should be able to adjust your stitch,you might try (when holding the button down) turning the handwheel away from you this will make it shorter,towards you is longer. The 211's all only have 1-button on the bed.

Hello Doc, Thanks for the update & it sounds like your keeping that Cowboy busy!!

Yes,it should work for what your sewing.This machine would sew the same as 111w or Consew 225,226 only it has a cylinder arm. The walking foot would be the better of the 2.

Looks like a real nice one......now!! That pink is real bright,I guess in a shop window it would sure stand out.

Hello CD,it was good to finally meet you I was hoping you'd come around & we could talk some more,but I know how it goes everybody gets busy & then it's time to leave. I thought there was quite a few less people at the show,the aisles weren't as thick w/people as previous years.but I like to go & meet people & see new things at the show. I agree they should include holsters,belt makers & general leathers maybe that would help the show to do it?As long as it's leather related it should be included in the show.

Maybe he's talking about how deep you can go in the arm,because they will only sew 3/4" thick max.They weigh around 550Lbs

Good choice,you'll get a lot less marking on the bottom side with the 206 than a machine like the 1182 because they have a needlefeed.

I have a couple that sew great I'd sell for $750.00 ea.They only have a 4" workspace,they do make a real nice looking stitch because they have a needle & awl.They would make a great holster or knife sheath machine.

I was thinking about the hammer & maybe I shouldn't have warned you because I know where you can get a real nice shiney NEW machine that will sew leather.So beat away!

The wheel needs to be against the body so there is no gap, when you get rid of the gap,the knock will go away.When your sewing & the takeup lever pulls the thread up it makes the shaft the wheel is mounted on go left & right.All machines with the takeup lever on the end will knock if there.'s side play on the top shaft.Push & pull on the wheel & you'll hear it.Also I know it's your machine & you can do whatever you want BUT you need to put the hammer outside far away from you,parts for this machine are real hard to find.

Ok,take the needle out,find some wood like a 2x4 or something & put it under the needlebar & use it as a stop,hold it careful & turn the wheel which ever way it takes to get it to spin towards the grooves on the shaft.

There's 2-screws on the wheel to the shaft,if you get the other one loosened it should sin on the shaft,if not & we'll go to plan B.