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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. This are more parts available for the 133 than the 45,if that helps any?
  2. We have some 207
  3. Ok ,just thought I'd chime in here & let you know we are used to talking with hobbiest type of people & even first time Industrial sewing machine owners so just have a list of questions ready when you call & we'll try to answer them the best we can.
  4. You can put a Singer pressure bar(or GA-5) on the Adler.
  5. I'm sure Proleptic.net will have your manual.
  6. Yes,it looks our model CB3200 http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html
  7. We have sold quite a few of them over the years & probably should add them to our website.We do oil & test them before we ship them unlike a place that says shipped from warehouse (untested drop-ship) They will use #69 & #92 thread.Yes,a great way to get started. The downside is the teeth on both the outside foot & lower feed dog that can leave marks.
  8. Weight depends on which motor ,I'll guess it's a clutchmotor,real close to 200Lbs,if they ship it truck freight w/pallet it's 250.
  9. No,I think your correct,I'd say it's like a 17 too,the 34K weighs 122Lbs or 55kgs.That machine looks alittle lighter.
  10. Here is a Singer 34K11 I picked up last year,it has a 45K top & a large bobbin & shuttle that is aboy 3x larger than a 29K
  11. Still trying to figure out how to position the needlebar within the throat plate hole. Your working on the wrong end.Go to the backside of the machine,there's vertical rod for the knee lift & alittle more than 1/2 way up you'll see a 1/2 hole in the casting, shine a light in there & you'll see the screw you need to loosen to move the needlebar front to back.It takes a large screwdriver & a lot of oomph to get it loose.
  12. Yes,trade the Chandler off & then the feet & bobbins & threading will all be the same. You might want to double check the Consew model # it might be 226?
  13. To me the S point looks better because the needle has more of a spade point to it & doesn't open up the side of the hole, with DI point the hole looks wider on the side due to the 4-sides of the needle.
  14. The smallest we can get them in is #24,we also have 25 & 26 in DI point,when I order #23 they send the LR's
  15. The 96 is a longer arm version of the 95 so it won't sew any different,like Geneva said they both were made to sew fast & thin materials.
  16. Yes,Kings X is right it's in Ft.Wayne,IN. Here some info here.
  17. I also agree with Wiz & Steve a triple feed is best for leather!
  18. Steve, I thought you were to call me back? One thing I forgot to mention yesterday(Thanks to Amuckart) is the screws that hold the race on(outside of shuttle) you need to turn all the way in & back them out one full turn so it can float.
  19. Are you making sure to get the bobbin thread underneath the spring properly?
  20. This machine originally used a 135x5 needle which is 11/2" long a lot of people change it to a 135x17 which is 13/4" long (so the needlebar won't hit the foot when sewing thick)Look on youtube for Consew 225 or 226 the bobbin goes in the same.The largest thread that works the best is #138.I did just play around with one of these the other day & sewed 7/16" with #92 nylon.
  21. This is a copy of a copy but it's all I have.
  22. Sounds like someone lost the screw & found a rivet that fit,these screws are available & so are the shuttles.
  23. I would try what Steve said first,then check your needlebar thread guide can get a groove in it & cut the thread & also check the feed dog hole the needle goes through for needle marks that might also need to be sanded or replaced.Also do you have a frsh ar least #22 needle in it?
  24. You should be very careful on this model 29 the gears haven't been available here in the US for over 35yrs.Unless you already have or know for sure you have new parts I would leave it alone.I have had to use a drift pin (flat headed punch) as small as the bobbin shaft & a big hammer & drove them out breaking the haed off the screw,but on this model you might also break the gear.
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