CowboyBob

Hello Sharon, Some of the older 31-15's were pinned & unless the pin breaks it won't go out of time,unless the needlebar gets pushed up when you break a needle.

Look on this site about "Servo motor on Consew 206",Colt Knight posted some info there. I tried to cut & paste it to here but it won't work ! http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=58290&p=374877

It is a 95-1 made for sewing lightweight material like shirts,dresses,drapes.It also has a leather timing belt that breaks.It also won't use thread any larger than #69 nylon. It would be better to buy a Singer 31-15 than this.

Troy might be right!There's a spring down inside the bobbincase that pushes the bobbin out & once in a while it can fall out & could cause this noise.

The Consew 146RB has a walking foot & zig-zag.

Hey guys don't forget to stop & pick me up! I like these old ones too! I see some real nice ones there.

Dan,This is a strange one!! You might want to take the race(the part that holds the shuttle in) and clean it out,you might find some thread or broken ends of needles in there.When you put it back together turn the 2-screws all the way in & back out a good 1/2 turn..Also have you ever taken the side cover off & oiled everything on the needlebar end?That might help too.

If it's worse than the China 15K then that's pretty bad !! I was hoping that it was going to be a decent machine! Maybe in 20 or so years they can fix it?

If you don't like the tight look,then yes,you need to loosen the top tension even the aux one too until you get the look you want.

Bigger looks better so most people use at least 277 & some use 346.

If you want to start out w/a household type of machine get a 15Class they are built like the 16Class Industrial types BUT they do not have a walking foot,but you can put a roller foot on it & have some fun with up to 1/4 or more leather.

I've always just used wheel bearing grease or Vaseline on the clutch pad(about a teaspoon)just smear it around.As a quick fix machine oil on the pad will work.They grab because they dry out so any lube helps it to slip & doesn't hurt it at all.

I haven't seen many over here,I doubt if they ever made a lot of them.

The Highlead or Consew 206 would be a good choice.

The needlebar is probably a replacement on that they didn't cut off after they put it in.Look up 45K92,that stitch length is for reverse.

It's a 138W101.needlefeed double needle.

The clutch kicks out when the hook gets jammed.It can get thread jammed by a couple of reasons threading the machine wrong,not holding your thread the first 3 stitches when you start.If you have the option of buying a machine with or w/o a clutch always get the one with it.Reason being if you jam the one w/o a clutch you risk knocking it out of time(the hook twists on the shaft) THEN you need to take it somewhere & get it retimed or learn to adjust it your self.

Looks great !!

Good job!!They sure don't give you much room to squezze the belt in there do they?

The bearing is pressed in there so if you can't get it out you will have to pull the top shaft out to change it.Which is a big job.

That's the feed dog it's under the inside foot.

Carrie you did a good job today repairing your machine,I'm glad it was just a minor problem & an easy repair.

When you reset the clutch you need to push the button own,turn the handwheel backwards until you here a clicking noise(clutch popping in gear) then you can release the button.Is the clutch kicking out when you first start sewing?If so this can be cause because the needle thread needs to be held the first 3-stitches when you start sewing(so it doesn't wad up underneath the material)

That's Great News !! :banana: :banana:

Carrie,there's no dumb questions...only dumb answers. LOL!!!