CowboyBob

$5-800.00 depending on condition.

It's real easy ,take the switch & wires off, then unfasten treadle rod off motor arm, on the motor there's 2 bolts side by side.Just loosen these 2 nuts 2turns,then on the other side take the nut all the way off the bolt.Push the bolt out of the table & now you can slide the motor off.and slide the new back on put the bolt back in tighten them,fasten switch & wires & adjust belt tension.

Yes,changing the motor isn't that hard to do.The servos all have the same 3 bolts & mount in the same holes as yours & they come w/wires & new switch.

A servo motor will slow it down.you can use thread sizes 69,92 & 138 on this machine with #16,20,22 needles. That's a nice looking camera you have in your avatar.

Yes,there's Singer 212,112w139,Juki 521,Consew 339 are all double needles.

If you want to sew leather get a double needle machine that has bobbins.also make the the gauge or distance between the needle is what you need since it is hard to change.

The 300 is a great canvas or upholstery machine but if you want to sew belts you should get a machine that has bobbins.Since this 300 is a chain stitch machine it makes loops on the bottom of the material (like whats on a dog food bag ) the 62x59 needle is special to the 300 since it has a twisted groove & isn 't available in a leather point.

That attachment looks like it's for darning,if you flip it to the left so it hits the metal bracket behind the tension it'll lift the pressure foot upas the foot lifts.This is used to repair feed bags were you want to push the material left to right & front to back.

When Consew made the 226 they didn't put the R in the model# on the plate like they do now,the model w/o reverse is a 225.

Highleads model#GA2688-1,is the same model as 441

I've noticed with Singer that a lot of the first model # like this model a 95-1 then they revised it to 95-10 improved with metal gears also happened with a lot of other models like 7 class,45K & others.

Looks good!! It probably should work nice too,that small pulley is smaller than usual so it should slow it down alot.

2nd idea,There's a vertical rod for the knee lifter on the back that if you tilted the machine back & set it back down could of gotten in a bind.

This machine was designed for binding thin material like clothing.It might sew 4-6 oz leather w/#69 thread but it will never use #207.It would probably work on wallets & real thin leather for fine stitching.

One thing to try is putting some Teflon tape on the bottom of the foot to decrease the drag on the leather.You might even be able to find some thin sheet Teflon @ a good hardware that you can cut to size & glue on the bottom.

If your trying to do quality work you need a better machine like the 5100 that has the walking foot & smooth feed dogs to get a quality look.

This is the same machine w/o reverse http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/31K.pdf

This is why HD machines for leather have a walking foot,because on your machine as you tighten the foot pressure it creates more drag & doesn't want to feed,so when you loosened it to help it feed,it'll lift causing skip stitches.Try getting some teflon tape & put it on the bottom of the foot & it'll let the leather slide through easier.This might help your feeding problem,BUT someday soon if you serious you will an much heavier duty machne. It also might help to oil the leather to soften it.

That is a great film.I've always been amazed how Singer made such great machines back in the day before electronics.They were made with good precision too! I bought a book off ebay that has the pics & highights of this film & even the pages with the words are in it. Thanks for posting it.

I have to applaud you in your dedication to make this belt & keep a machine running that has an obsolete part.I get call every for them every once in a while & send them to you.I also think it's great that you've improved them.As far as SingerI think after time just like you found out there's a better way to design things & maybe that's why they went to gears esp in a factory where most of them were w/oil getting on them & streching I'll bet they got some complaints & improved them.They also done this on a lot of other machine like the 29's.It sure would be nice to read some of their engineers notes from back in the day about some of the designs.

You go back & forth ,left to right w/the material,like a burlap bags to pair a rip.They used to do it to work shirts & pants,but they used a different machine.

That's called a darning attachment so you can move the material with your hands.That's great you got it going.

Does it sew ?

You might check to see that this adjustment on the wingnut on the backside so the line is pointing to the m or h see fig#31

These units are very costly over $200.00 US. the last time I priced one.You might try running the thread through 2 or 3 of the holes on the spool pin on top of the machine,this should make more tension @ the discs & keep the thread from sliding out.