Jump to content

CowboyBob

Contributing Member
  • Posts

    3,256
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. On the 111w155 there's a collar on the bearing on the inside that has 2-screws in it that you need to loosen too,are they loose?.Before you try to slide it off you should look for high spots where the screws go & file them off & the bearing will slide of easier.That's usually why the wheel is hard to pull off because the screws loosen & then they burr up the shaft as people sew on it.
  2. Don't expect to sew anything thicker than chaps with # 69 thread.They were made for sewing shirts,dresses & thinner material.
  3. Sure, we have needles ,thread & parts for it.
  4. It will use #138 & #22 needle & sew around 20 oz or 5/16".
  5. Yes,I'm almost certain since you said your sewing along & it jams it leads to to believe that either your needle thread isn't threaded correctly OR your upper tension is to loose.So make sure your going around the second tension 1 & 1/2 times. Please give me a call if you need more help.Also hold onto the thread the first 3 stitches.
  6. The 227R uses the same threading as above,very common to alot of different models of machines.
  7. You might want to check the shuttle & see if it is loose.Sometimes you can take it out(it's held on by 2-screws)& take the spring & ring off the back & clean it out,oil it & see what happens.
  8. Are the 16x257 needles the same length as the ones that work?Are you putting the long groove on the left?
  9. This is a very early unimproved model of machine that can barely sew 2 layers of shirt weight material.I wouldn't think of even trying leather on it.There is no way it'll live up to the story someone said about it sewing bridles & I'm willing to bet that is why they bought it & found out otherwise.
  10. I'd like to see a pic of it?
  11. It takes a needle & awl machine to punch through tugs like a Lands#3,Randall or Champion.
  12. Maggie, You need to double check the model # of your machine,I think you have a LU562?When you reset the clutch you push the button on the rightside down & turn the handwheel backwards.Also when you go to sew you need to make sure the bobbin thread is above the needle plate & pulled to the back & hold the needle thread when you start sewing for the first 3-stitches(to prevent looping underneath)
  13. I think that is an older european type of size for cotton thread that isn't used anymore.Maybe someone across the pond might know.
  14. No,it won't handle #138,this machine is very similar to a Singer 241,251,281 only it has reverse.You might be able to use #92.
  15. Hey Mike glad to see your back.
  16. What no stand?
  17. Anytime they write "cheap as chips" I would run.What a sales pitch?(LOL) Looking at the panel is has it might have a 220 v motor & this model #463 is a light duty machine that if your real lucky might sew alittle more than 1/4" leather with a small #69 thread.
  18. Tom, The parts haven't been available for years.Campbell-Randall in Texas might have some parts they can make.If you go to the auction ask where they bought this machine,Also can you get me a pic of the stand? Thanks
  19. They make a real nice stitch just like most needle & awl machines,you will pay dearly though for any parts it might need.In good decent condition it should sell for over $2,500.00. Good Luck
  20. Those are available generic for around $20.00
  21. It is a 31-19 because it has the walking feet on it,the other ones just have a roller or flat foot.It was made for sewing multiple plies of lightweight canvas & leather.
  22. That is a 31-19 & any manual for a 31 would work,it takes the 16x2 leather needle can use #92 or #138 thread.
  23. It looks like you might be using a TRI point,try either a D or S point & it'll look alot nicer.
  24. This machine is better for chaps & wallets,it will sew to maybe a total of 20 oz leather & use up to #138 max thread size.You need to use larger thread & sew thicker than what this machine can do.
×
×
  • Create New...