Still trying to figure out how to position the needlebar within the throat plate hole.
Your working on the wrong end.Go to the backside of the machine,there's vertical rod for the knee lift & alittle more than 1/2 way up you'll see a 1/2 hole in the casting, shine a light in there & you'll see the screw you
need to loosen to move the needlebar front to back.It takes a large screwdriver & a lot of oomph to get it loose.
Yes,trade the Chandler off & then the feet & bobbins & threading will all be the same.
You might want to double check the Consew model # it might be 226?
To me the S point looks better because the needle has more of a spade point to it & doesn't open up the side of the hole, with DI point the hole looks wider on the side due to the 4-sides of the needle.
Steve,
I thought you were to call me back?
One thing I forgot to mention yesterday(Thanks to Amuckart) is the screws that hold the race on(outside of shuttle) you need to turn all the way in & back them out one full turn so it can float.
This machine originally used a 135x5 needle which is 11/2" long a lot of people change it to a 135x17 which is 13/4" long (so the needlebar won't hit the foot when sewing thick)Look on youtube for Consew 225 or 226 the bobbin goes in the same.The largest thread that works the best is #138.I did just play
around with one of these the other day & sewed 7/16" with #92 nylon.
I would try what Steve said first,then check your needlebar thread guide can get a groove in it & cut the thread & also check the feed dog hole the needle goes through for needle marks that might also need to be sanded or replaced.Also do you have a frsh ar least #22 needle in it?
You should be very careful on this model 29 the gears haven't been available here in the US for over 35yrs.Unless you already have or know for sure you have new parts I would leave it alone.I have had to use a drift pin (flat headed punch) as small as the bobbin shaft & a big hammer & drove them out breaking the haed off the screw,but on this model you might also break the gear.
Welcome to the board.There's a show coming up in Sheridan & they have some carving workshops you might want to attend.Barry King is there along w/Bob Beard & a lot of other suppliers.
http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/sheridan2015.html
Here's a pic of a 211 clutch,the a & b lines need to be lined up on the inside hud & the outer pulley for the clutch to put the machine in time.You might need to tighten the 3-screws facing you when you look @ the cltch,these will make it kick out @ a higher torque then it might be set at(when you change the stitch your are knocking the clutch out of time like Constabulary says)
The thing you call a transformer is the starting capacitor w/o it your motor won't start,if the wire is bad just replace it ,you could use the wire from your new switch,the 3rd wire is ground that you connect to the metal switch housing.