CowboyBob

Hey Colt, I should of mentioned I'll be getting some towards the end of the week.

You Sir are correct but even leather shortens up in reverse w/o the feed dogs so if leather doesn't reverse properly,"stickier" beta sure won't.What is strange about ALL 441's even Juki is the top of the needlebar rock frame is offset.It's offset towards the back so it makes the feed harder to be more consistant in reverse.A machine like a Juki 563 the pivot @ the top is centered & should feed more evenly in reverse w/o a feed dog.

The problem is the feed dogs are out & he's sewing Beta which is real sticky,it is real hard to get the stitches to line up in reverse in leather w/o the feed dog,but beta is impossible w/o the feed dogs.they lift the material off the slide plate & help with the feed.So use Wiz's idea & turn it around if you need to backstitch w/o the feed dogs.We always test the machines with the feed dogs in.Now if there was a Teflon slotted needle plate made it would help the reverse stitch line up.

And they don't sew any thicker than the 4500 & since they cost so much more we are selling the few we have left & do not plan on reordering.They come in 12,16 & 25" long arms.

You need to double check your threading(looping & bunching underneath is upper tension) & make sure your going around the 2nd tension on the side 1&1/2x.also make sure to hold the needle thread for 3-4 stitches when you start sewing. HTH

Looks like a pro sewed that belt !

Wiz, Ferdco made the stitch groove foot years ago & they copied it from the old machines like the Champion or Landis. They work pretty good going straight but leaves a lot of unwanted marking when turning corners.

Ron, I thought by know you would know you can call anytime you need to with a question.We have already talked 5-6 times & went over everything with you about needles,thread,sewing thickness & etc.Yes,the Cowboy manual is Chinese that's why we sent the other one.You did get 2-manuals correct?.It is just a real basic fairly easy machine to operate not much different than the 1541S.Just able to handle thinner material better. Here's our needle & thread chart maybe that will help? http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

This is almost always when either the top tension is to loose or not threaded correctly.Do you know you need to go around the 2nd tension 1&1/2?

IDK what's wrong but the vid plays on my old computer w/windows 8?And it's upright? Here's a shorter vid. IMG_2229 (1).MOV

Yes,Toledo sounds like a good place to start.(LOL)With the motor & speed reducer we use you can go as slow as you want & even position the needle up or w/o much problem.I just made this video & ran the machine w/o ever touching the handwheel.This is a brand new machine that will loosen up in time & spin alittle easier once it gets broken in. IMG_2224 (2).MOV

Maybe this will help?

Small bobbin, "G" style.

The best time & to be sure you don't get a skipped stitch is to stop & turn after the thread is caught on the hook ,so this is on the upstroke (approx. 1/4")

You can always take shaft DD out & get a little longer shaft & then just use the screws CC & BB to adjust the stitch length.

Try to turn screw CC out then push DD in all the way,then turn CC back down & see what happens.It won't work unless DD is pushed all the way in.

Take out screw BB & turn CC in for longer or out for shorter.

It could be a wornout needlebar hole.loosen the needle set screw & see how much it moves left to right.You will probably need to replace the needlebar.

I've heard people say that before.All I have to say is we sell approx. 3-5 a mon & they hold up really good just like most machines will if they're oiled & taken care of.We sold 2 to NASA last year & they called a month ago & ordered 2 more! The dealer might only had this machine in stock

The GB needle prices do vary some,the small 16x231,257 are something like Eric says, with the larger 135x17 costing more with the leather points costing more than round points.The GB's used to be made in Czech Republic,but now have moved to India,we sell a lot of them & the quality still seems to be the same. All needles come in boxes of 100 which you can buy @ a better price usually then buying a pk of 10 @ a time.Since then we are stuck with an open pick,but we've been doining it for years

Push the feed dog front to back to check for play,even check both shafts underneath push left & right ,adjust as need alittle is needed so they don't bind up,oil every pivot point while your under there too.Making the slot longer in the front will help too.

The plate does look like a good idea BUT I was talking about the motor sticking out past the edge of the table since it has to be moved back.

I can understand everyone wants to save $$ & I don't blame you for that.But the box style reducer sells for $185.00+ shpg & then all you do is bolt it on, measure for belts & you are done,no making & lining up of plates(or redrilling holes in the table top) & trying to make it work & with that plate that moves the motor back the motor will stick out of the back of the table & you won't be able to push the table against a wall because the motor will hit the wall.

We have a box-style reducer that we sell that mounts in between the table & motor & allows you to tilt the head back.

Thread jamming underneath is usually a upper thread tension issue,you might look in between the tension discs for lint build-up & then try to tighten the top tension more than where it is now.It should use 138 w/o much problem other than you need to hold on the needle thread when you start as Suzelle mentioned.