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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. CowboyBob
    The plate does look like a good idea BUT I was talking about the motor sticking out past the edge of the table since it has to be moved back.
  2. CowboyBob
    I can understand everyone wants to save $$ & I don't blame you for that.But the box style reducer sells for $185.00+ shpg & then all you do is bolt it on, measure for belts & you are done,no making & lining up of plates(or redrilling holes in the table top) & trying to make it work & with that plate that moves the motor back the motor will stick out of the back of the table & you won't be able to push the table against a wall because the motor will hit the wall.
  3. CowboyBob
    We have a box-style reducer that we sell that mounts in between the table & motor & allows you to tilt the head back.
  4. CowboyBob
    Thread jamming underneath is usually a upper thread tension issue,you might look in between the tension discs for lint build-up & then try to tighten the top tension more than where it is now.It should use 138 w/o much problem other than you need to hold on the needle thread when you start as Suzelle mentioned.
  5. CowboyBob
    The adjustment is to bend #17,you can put a screwdriver on the upper part on the back side & use another screwdriver on the lower tab on the left on the front side & bend it alittle towards the back.
  6. CowboyBob
    I just had a woman call last week I sent a 1541S to & I had her send me a threading pic & it was left to right.
  7. CowboyBob
    The zero-max is made for lighter torque applications like pullers & will slip when using them for a speed reducer.For $135.00 + shipping you can buy a 3 pulley speed reducer that will work a lot better.You also need to get rid of the clutchmotor & get a servo motor.
  8. CowboyBob
    Yes,tighten or turn to the right,just alittle @ a time & push on the pedal to check the change.
  9. CowboyBob
    There is a large bolt on the end of the motor that has a locknut on it you need to loosen,when you go to the rightside of the table & look @ the motor,it will be @ approx. 9:oo position & take a 5/8" wrench to loosen it ,turn it in maybe 1/2 turn & check the amount of play.
  10. CowboyBob
    There is a large bolt on the end of the motor that has a locknut on it you need to loosen,when you go to the rightside of the table & look @ the motor,it will be @ approx. 9:oo position & take a 5/8" wrench to loosen it ,turn it in maybe 1/2 turn & check the amount of play.
  11. CowboyBob
    Most people that have ran both will like the 111w better esp for leather because it has a larger & heavier handwheel & parts are more plentiful for the 111w too.
  12. CowboyBob
    The #24 needle w/277 is very marginal,it will work sometimes W//some threads BUT can give you problems so we always recommend #25 w/277.
  13. CowboyBob
    These are the worst ones to repair,where someone else has turned & adjusted things that didn't need adjusting.
  14. CowboyBob
    Well,the OP is a woman so I suppose she might be more inclined to use a man's name.
  15. CowboyBob
    No,once you start cussing they will start sewing worse & worse!!
  16. CowboyBob
    I'm glad "Hoss" made the trip to you & is sewing like he's supposed to.Treat him nice,oil him often & don't ever swear @ him & he'll keep sewing like a good Cowboy !!
  17. CowboyBob
    A 206RB-3 isn't a real old machine but there could be some wear in the upper feed that can cause a problem you want the needle in the material before the inside foot comes down..But the material being shorter on top would lead me to think there is some wear front to back on the inside foot causing the plies to shift.Also what type of thread are you using?Nylon can cause puckers in canvas since it stretches like a rubber band & after it's sewn will relax & pucker.Polyester is supposed t have less stretch & so does cotton.
  18. CowboyBob
    The feed is off probably didn't have the take up lever all the way up when he put the belt on ,or the feed cam underneath isn't in the slot on the bottom shaft,the screw that goes in the slot is marked w/a S on the cam.
  19. CowboyBob
    The hook can get jammed up& tie up the lower shaft,so put some oil around the bobbincase & rock the lower shaft back & forth.
  20. CowboyBob
    Gloss
  21. CowboyBob
    Size#200 will work with 277.
  22. CowboyBob
    The short-arm version of this machine is a Singer 61W2,do a search for that model# & there's a lot more info.This machine is great for quilters w/the long arm.But don't expect to sew much leather with it. HTH Bob
  23. CowboyBob
    The flat bar & wing nut is how they get the pressure foot pressure on these older models,your 28K51 has the different newer style coil spring. Constabulary,I do see a adjusting screw on the take up lever that none of the 29-3&4 usually have maybe this is why it's a SV?Of course it could of been added through the years as a replacement part too.
  24. CowboyBob
    Nice !!!
  25. CowboyBob
    Jomar, I leaning like Eric towards foot pressure..I think your pressure was just loose enough that the leather lifted as the needle pulled up.These types of machines with walking feet always will mark some & some leathers mark easier than others.If needed the marks can be rubbed out by a spoon.
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