CowboyBob

The larger hook is also taller so it requires a mill because the top of the hook saddle needs to be milled.

I've tried doing this too & gave up using this motor on machines where I know people will want to go slow,we use the SL-550 instead & get the slow speed w/o any work.

If you have a tile or cement floor somewhere,take the head off the base,take your slide plate over the bobbin off & turn the machine upside down & shake it till it falls out. As you probably know now it's always best to take the bobbin case out when removing those screws.

NO,they do not just interchange!You need to either buy the correct hook saddle(the part that holds the hook in) or it needs to be taken out & machined deeper.The large hook is also taller & won't fit in,you also need to change the take up lever,as it's also longer on the 563.

Yes it is supposed to be out some time next summer.

Yes,a CB3200 would be a great addition for you as it'll sew the thicker leather with thicker thread that the other 2 can't.And of course the other ones can sew thinner leather than the CB3200 so you'd have no excuses to get the job done. LOL !

Yes,spin it around is the only way to get the holes to line up.

The 29K60 will be a handy machine to have with it's cyl arm.At least your getting machine that you can get parts for.

Looks like a good machine,timing belt looks good too.Has a large pulley on the motor easy to change or upgrade to a servo.

I just saw this post.You can use up to #138 with a dia point needle size #22. Here's needle & thread chart;http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

It will help them if you know the brand & model# of your current motor.Should have a tag on it with all the info.

You need a 2-spool serged edge for patches,so take out the left needle & use the right one only,you'll also a need to change the overcast looper to an open one(converts to 2-spool) so you can sew the edge w/2 spools.

Around 15 min into this movie you'll see how they attached the castings & also the how they painted them. http://movingimage.nls.uk/film/1592

You'd be surprised how hot a machine can get w/a heatlamp under it & some tin foil over it .

Many times if you can carefully w/pliers or vice-grips pull the needle out & get pressure off the screw it'll spin right out.

I believe sometimes some things are better left alone,we have split machines apart many times,it isn't easy to get the screws out(use an impact driver),also once you get them out you also have to pry & work the casting back & forth to get the (2) big taper pins out that they put in there.

Great buy,we have the needles & awls in stock for in packs of (10) f/$20.00.

Lift the foot up all the way & you'll see where it hits the casting,you take all the parts off & put it in a bandsaw & cut the underneath side of the casting(where the needlebar comes out) & fill in the slot on the lifter handle backet (flat piece in the side) w/braze so the slot is shorter.

Lee,nice looking machine & video ! CD the 42-5 was made for larger thread up to #346 where the 16 class can use up to 207 with some fiddling.

There might be a lever inside that the stitch length knob hits to make your stitches longer & shorter,what I think happened is when he turned it all the way out it dropped down,so what you need to do is,turn it all the way out,look in the back access plate & push it in reverse so you see what's moving & take a screwdriver & hold it up while you turn the adjuster back in.You'll probably need to hold the lever down as you turn the knob back in too.

The Seiko way will keep the thread in the tension better.BUT either way doesn't make a difference in the way it sews(won't stop it from skipping) You might want to try alittle more foot pressure.

You might need to adjust the hook closer to the needle,there's a large screw underneath to loosen ,you want it as close as you can get w/o touching the needle.

I found this on ISMACS The No. 3 Standard (Picture and Text Courtesy of Dorothy Brumleve) In 1852 a modification of the first Singer machine was put on the market and was called the "No. 1 Standard"; it was essentially a machine for manufacturing purposes and several hundred thousand were sold previous to 1880. It was succeeded by the "No. 2 Standard" in 1854. This also was similar to the "No. 1" but had greater capacity; it was fitted with either the rolling, the vibrating or the spring presser, according to the class of work it was to accomplish. It was heavier than the No. 1 and had more room under the arm. In 1856 the "No. 3 Standard" was brought out. This too was similar to its predecessors in its mechanism but was especially designed for stitching leather in carriage trimming and harness manufacture. It has 18 inches clear space under the arm and is a standard machine to-day [1914] for its purpose.