CowboyBob

I recommend #138 but know of people that use larger but it will tend to jam easier when you go over 138. What's that motorcycle you have?

Yes,they take the same feet,bobbins & needles as your 111w,the only difference between the W & K is K stands for being made in the UK & the W machine was made in Bridgeport,CT.Give them both a real good lube job & try to sew on them & see what happens & yes,that stand should work for you too.

I once made up a treadle stand with a 111w100 needlefeed for an Amish customer that wanted it to sew belts & it didn't treadle real easy sewing the belts.Your 211 will have a smaller pulley & might work better. That stand came out real nice!

They are for High-Speed sewing esp in denser material that heat the needle.

If your machine has a small handwheel under 3 1/2" go with at least a 3-1 reduction,we use a 4-1 on our box style & it works great,other people have also made reducers from the old-style belt driven grinder arbors. arbor.html

Here's one we had made up with a 2"small pulley & a 8" large pulley,they work great! I've seen pulleys like this in clothes dryers that could be adaptable real easy.

Yes,Max is right it's like a DU-214H also look up Nakajima 280,WMC used to sell them using that Mercury name. I just found the old price sheet from 1994 & we used to buy them for $450.00 for the head & always bought extra gears since the ones the factory put in them usually broke soon if they jammed it up.It has a large-bobbin,walking foot & reverse.

If you lift the foot up & push it front to back how much play does it have?However much it has is causing it to not pull the feet front to back making the stitch shorter.It's a very common problem with these machines.Part # 82167 has a little tongue that fits in a groove of #82053 & gets worn.

Yes,we have them priced @ $160.00 BUT sell them @ discount & have never sold one @ that price.Cowboys plate is stainless steel,most others are chrome plated & the chrome peels off after while.

That's a great deal,your very lucky usually when the put the motor on they throw the treadle wheel in a corner & it probably ends up thrown away.We get people calling all the time for them! Nice looking machine for the $$

No,trust me on this one,I would doubt if it would handle # 69 thread & it won't ever sew as thick as a 31-15.It was one of Singers 1st high-speed machines for garment factories.

I worked on a lot of 45's over the years & have never seen that one.It might of been custom made.I'd say it's for sewing a narrow strap or ?? it looks like 6-8 mm from the needle hole to the rightside?

Have them tilt the head back to drain the oil out of the head before you get there.Then take a funnel & a container that holds a quart to drain the oil from the pan.Then like Madmaxx said take the head out & when you lay it down in your vehicle put it on the backside because if you lay the front down you can break the take up lever & tension. Also lay the table on the backside & it'll slide right in most SUV's or pickups.

No,too long & shank won't fit in needlebar,use 16x2 for leather they are shorter,use 16x257,231 for cloth & vinyl.

Alot of times the cork dries out,we have always told people to smear about a teaspoon of grease on the clutch pad & run the belt as loose as you can!

Yes Sir,Colt your doing a great job on them bags!

Uwe is correct it will tend to give you problems with #207.We used to sell them new years ago & had a customer come in wanting one for nylon halters & using #207,I showed him what we had & he didn't want to spend $5,000.00 on a new Adler & pointed to the Juki 241,I said we can try the thread & see what happens but I didn't recommend it for a long term.He says just to get started then go to a bigger machine,I told him he pushing it & might have problems.We I sewed on it ,it worked great.He bought it & was back in less than a week,he jammed it up.I guess he didn't hold the thread.We fixed it & showed him again how to hold the threads when first start.He came back maybe 3 wks later & broke the hook on it.So now he starting to understand what I told him & bought a Singer 97-10 for the large thread & kept this for the chaps & thinner sewing. Moral of story it's best to get the right machine for the job your doing or you'll end up spending more later . The only problem with the model 241 is it doesn't have a bobbin case opener like Juki's newer model 1541S has & that helps prevent the machine from jamming up esp when your using large thread otherwise when you use #138 or thinner on this machine it should give you years of trouble-free service.

Most of the questions are answered here.http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb2500.html

Yes,there are pedals that fit that style of leg.

I've never done this on the 107 BUT you could drill a hole in it to use the #12361 hinge pins,I'm pretty sure there's enough thickness there to allow for a hole,it would easier than modifying the table(which I've done before & it doesn't look pretty)

Hello, I haven't seen that plate...YET ! LOL

Yes,we have them in stock.

Rick, Those are built like a 31-15,it's pretty hard to find one that nice looking!

The 331 doesn't have a scarf.

Try to tighten the bobbin tension screw 1/4 turn @ a time & keep test sewing each time & it'll get better.