CowboyBob

If your machine has a small handwheel under 3 1/2" go with at least a 3-1 reduction,we use a 4-1 on our box style & it works great,other people have also made reducers from the old-style belt driven grinder arbors. arbor.html

Here's one we had made up with a 2"small pulley & a 8" large pulley,they work great! I've seen pulleys like this in clothes dryers that could be adaptable real easy.

Yes,Max is right it's like a DU-214H also look up Nakajima 280,WMC used to sell them using that Mercury name. I just found the old price sheet from 1994 & we used to buy them for $450.00 for the head & always bought extra gears since the ones the factory put in them usually broke soon if they jammed it up.It has a large-bobbin,walking foot & reverse.

If you lift the foot up & push it front to back how much play does it have?However much it has is causing it to not pull the feet front to back making the stitch shorter.It's a very common problem with these machines.Part # 82167 has a little tongue that fits in a groove of #82053 & gets worn.

Yes,we have them priced @ $160.00 BUT sell them @ discount & have never sold one @ that price.Cowboys plate is stainless steel,most others are chrome plated & the chrome peels off after while.

That's a great deal,your very lucky usually when the put the motor on they throw the treadle wheel in a corner & it probably ends up thrown away.We get people calling all the time for them! Nice looking machine for the $$

No,trust me on this one,I would doubt if it would handle # 69 thread & it won't ever sew as thick as a 31-15.It was one of Singers 1st high-speed machines for garment factories.

I worked on a lot of 45's over the years & have never seen that one.It might of been custom made.I'd say it's for sewing a narrow strap or ?? it looks like 6-8 mm from the needle hole to the rightside?

Have them tilt the head back to drain the oil out of the head before you get there.Then take a funnel & a container that holds a quart to drain the oil from the pan.Then like Madmaxx said take the head out & when you lay it down in your vehicle put it on the backside because if you lay the front down you can break the take up lever & tension. Also lay the table on the backside & it'll slide right in most SUV's or pickups.

No,too long & shank won't fit in needlebar,use 16x2 for leather they are shorter,use 16x257,231 for cloth & vinyl.

Alot of times the cork dries out,we have always told people to smear about a teaspoon of grease on the clutch pad & run the belt as loose as you can!

Yes Sir,Colt your doing a great job on them bags!

Uwe is correct it will tend to give you problems with #207.We used to sell them new years ago & had a customer come in wanting one for nylon halters & using #207,I showed him what we had & he didn't want to spend $5,000.00 on a new Adler & pointed to the Juki 241,I said we can try the thread & see what happens but I didn't recommend it for a long term.He says just to get started then go to a bigger machine,I told him he pushing it & might have problems.We I sewed on it ,it worked great.He bought it & was back in less than a week,he jammed it up.I guess he didn't hold the thread.We fixed it & showed him again how to hold the threads when first start.He came back maybe 3 wks later & broke the hook on it.So now he starting to understand what I told him & bought a Singer 97-10 for the large thread & kept this for the chaps & thinner sewing. Moral of story it's best to get the right machine for the job your doing or you'll end up spending more later . The only problem with the model 241 is it doesn't have a bobbin case opener like Juki's newer model 1541S has & that helps prevent the machine from jamming up esp when your using large thread otherwise when you use #138 or thinner on this machine it should give you years of trouble-free service.

Most of the questions are answered here.http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb2500.html

Yes,there are pedals that fit that style of leg.

I've never done this on the 107 BUT you could drill a hole in it to use the #12361 hinge pins,I'm pretty sure there's enough thickness there to allow for a hole,it would easier than modifying the table(which I've done before & it doesn't look pretty)

Hello, I haven't seen that plate...YET ! LOL

Yes,we have them in stock.

Rick, Those are built like a 31-15,it's pretty hard to find one that nice looking!

The 331 doesn't have a scarf.

Try to tighten the bobbin tension screw 1/4 turn @ a time & keep test sewing each time & it'll get better.

Here's a parts manual http://parts.singerco.com/IPpartCharts/29K51_53_55_56.pdf

I really doubt if you'll find any manual that tells you how to do this.It is pretty easy though.Take the screw out of the drive rod & then there's 2-screws under the gearbox that holds it on.Do you know the gears for this machine aren't available?

Yes,try tightening the bobbin tension alittle should help.Do you need or want to sew 5 oz? What happens when your sewing thin is it's hard to not see the knot because the leather so thin for the thread size,it would also help to go to a smaller size in the bobbin than on top.

7x1 or 7x3 are round points,7x2 or 7x4 are leather point & either should work in your machine.