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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. All you need to do is talk to the dealer you want to buy from.When sewing leather it is also good to know what thread size you want to use & you do mention wanting to sew 10-12 oz & then up to 24 oz & then mention heavy leather how heavy will that be?And what thread size?
  2. Look either online or in your phonebook & see if here's a Fastenal company store by you & him.I've they ship for around $100.00 or so.
  3. Tom is right what is thick to one person is thin to another.BUT you mention an inch thick the White 1315(those people selling these "industrial strength machines) should all be thrown off there for all the hype they advertise because most of them can barely sew 1/4". So if you are really serious about want to sew an inch of leather you will need a Randall Unionlock this machine has a needle & awl.This machine sews thicker because the awl punches a hole for the needle to go in creating less drag on the needle. Now if you go down to 3/4" then any of the Adler 205 or Juki 441 type of machine will work.
  4. You don't loosen the screw on the gear to retime as this screw must always stay in a hole in the shuttle driver,you loosen the locknut on the opposite end & turn the screw (it's a cam screw) to retime it.
  5. Electronic needle position,where the needle either stops up or down.
  6. The motor controls the speed,we always put a servo on them & you can go as slow as you want.
  7. You need to make sure the bobbin thread is threaded correctly & you need to chack that your tension spring is good as they can get sprung & not work properly.
  8. Juki has serger w/a topfeed aka (walking foot) on it this machine is used a lot for thicker materials. There is also a walking foot zig-zag machine too.
  9. Yes,they are great machines.I sold one years ago to a place making tow straps & they were sewing a good 3/8 or 12mm thick w/#346 thread. They are a real tough machine.
  10. Here's a pic of one I have,yours sure is alot better looking, It dates to 1891 & as you can see it's a fiddlebed.
  11. This machine looks like a real old 16 class Singer.Can you post a picture of the bobbin case underneath?
  12. You'll be real lucky to use #207 on it.138 will work better.
  13. Welcome to the forum & leather sewing.Always remember when it loops underneath either your top thread is threaded incorrectly or it's to loose of tension so much that it won't pull it up like it needs to be.We have sold these 47's in the past & they are great little machines that won't sew quite as heavy as a 153.We do have the needles in stock in a leather point & round point for webbing or cloth along with any other parts it might need.
  14. Parts haven't been available for this machine in 30yrs,it's a big old heavy machine like a 7 class Singer.you'll even have a hard time finding needles.
  15. Question, I have not taken it apart, but behind the black Y shaped piece of metal that the disks are attached to there is some sort of lever. Is it supposed to move or do anything? Mine does not. That is for the tension release,it is supposed to open the tension discs when you pickup the foot so the thread pulls out easier. If your thread is jumping out of the tension,try when you thread it & go down on the left,underneath,go up the rightside & over the top of the pin sticking out @ the 3 0 clock position.
  16. Yes,we are still in business.We do get a lot of phone calls so if you don't get an answer leave a message on the voicemail & we'll get back to you as soon as we can. Call 1-866-362-7397
  17. Yes,it has a walking foot & you should be able to use up to#207 but #138 will work better & it should sew close to 20oz of leather. We do have some feet & other parts in stock for it,but they will cost more than the machine. Sounds like you got a great deal there!
  18. We have a manual & parts for this model.
  19. There used to be a rubberized one but it's been discontinued,you could have Tennessee Attachment make one or you can mixup some JB weld & fill in the grooves with it.
  20. The 441's use alot of the old Singer type of screw threads,the problem is some screws interchange between some machines & some don't? So the best way we have found most of the time is to get the screws for the # for that brand when in doubt.There are some that we know will interchange.Another problem is the length,some screws might have 3-4 different # & be the same dia.& threads pr in. but when they're used on different parts of the machine they need the different lengths.And then some have shoulders & head diameters on them,so it goes on & on.
  21. You aren' tgoing to find hardly any sewing machine screw in a hardware store.You have to get them from a sewing machine dealer.All the screws from a Juki 441 will work when ordered by the correct part# from them. Here's some more info showing threads pr in & dia of some singer screws so you can see what your up against. http://www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/screw_threads/
  22. I can't post a pic right now but it's petty easy to find the adjuster screw,it's right behind the spool pin,you need a screwdriver to adjust it.If you look @ the back of the machine you'll see the flat pressure bar spring & you'll be able to see the screw in the middle pushing down.You can probably start out a full turn & if you get to loose it'll start skipping stitches.
  23. You should be able to p/u a Singer 111w,Consew 225 for around $500.00
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