CowboyBob

It might sew up to 1/4" thick of leather using #69 thread

Here's a manual http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/132B26.pdf

No,always wrap around the lower tension 1&1/2x if you don't you will(probably) get eratic tension.The way the lower one works is it acts like a brake & the thread needs to be around it like I said so the thread is gripped by the pulley so it can spin.The lower pulley (aka tension) also needs to spin to work if it's overtighted & doesn't spin it will give eratic temsion too.So that is why you mainly need to always adjust the top one as or when needed.It doesn't hurt once in a while to take the lower one apart & put oil on the shaft so it can spin.The old 7 class Singers use this same type of tension & I've seen quite a few of then with wornout holes in the pulley.Of course some of these could be 40-70 yrs old but I think alittle oil might of prevented it.

WE've painted 1000's of machines over the yrs & we found out paint remover will not remove Singers paint off the machine,the best thing to do is just sand it,we use a belt sand on the bed & lightly hand sand the rest to smooth it up put on a couple coats of primer sand lightly again & paint.Don't forget after you sand to was the machine down good with someting like alcohol or wax remover of some kind because of all the oils so the primer adher properly.

You can either email or call your order & state what point & size you want then.

Yes,they all take the same.

The LL should be a twist point that makes a zig-zag look to the stitch,we have the DIA point 7x4#24&25 in stock in Organ,we also have the #25 in Tri point.

We have a 1.5 amp motor that we sell to people for doing this,does your machine have the motor boss on the side of it?

If it has a large bobbin it's a model#255RB

There should be 2 screws that go into the fylwheel & there should be at least one slot in the shaft for a screw to fit into,so if you loosen the screws hold the machine somewhere from turning & try to spin the wheel so the other screw will go into the slot it should get it back in time.

All the 441 clone type of machine take the 7x3 (which is a round point) and then there's the 7x4 leather point the comes in a nw(narrow wedge point) it doesn't look that good,a LR twist point that gives it a zig-zag look,a diamond point that work s ok & the best needle to use if you want a tight looking stitch is the Schmetz 794S point that looks like a spade point & makes a slice in the leather parallel with the line of stitching (we sell more S-points than the others)

NO,No,No it is just an old home machine it would be better for sewing shirts,dresses & draperies.

Yes,you should be able to sew thin & soft leathers to 1/4" or so on this machine,it would help to get a Teflon foot that helps the leather slide through easier.

3/16" is to much try 3/32"

You might want to check the screws in the handwheel to make sure it's in the groove of the top shaft or you could even try moving & put the other screw in the groove .

Can you take a pic of the backside?

Ok,on the other end of the shaft in the bacl(with the arrow pointing to it) is there a pinch clamp around the shaft?That would be were to adjust it.

Mansew made a ruffler attachment for draperies.

The lever that runs out of the back pinches the pressure bar to lift it & if you oiled the top of the pressure bar(just under the spring) it can't grip the bar to lift it.You might have to take the spring off & then that square piece on top & take some alcohol & wash both the pressure bar & the inside the the lifting block.

I don't know the exact year but Chandler was bought by Consew approx. 8 yrs ago before that they were a separate company that imported a lot of different machines & were one of the first to bring Adlers in.All the parts from the early 206RB will fit in this though so you won't have any problems w/part.This machine may have been made in Taiwan.

The model# should be on the other side.I've been in the Industrial Sewing Machine business going on 33 yrs & never seen that model yet,but Singer would design & build machines for any purpose years ago.I think with the lifter handle where it is it's a left handed machine & the pic is the backside.It's probably like a model#108 probably a sv model# (special version) certain parts might be hard to find for it.

With the needle bar all the way down,the point of the hook on the right side should be @ approx. 7:00 position.Or if you drew a line from the center of the bobbincase to the front throat plate screw the point should be right under it(with the needlebar all the way down)Then you can set the spacing as of the hook as close to the needles as you can get & then make sure the needles are set so the top of the eye is a good 1/16 of an in below the hook point as it meets the needle.

Do you know to pull up the bobbin thread up through the feed dog before you start to sew?

The button on the left is the stitch length,the button on the right is for when the clutch kicks out,the big loops could be do to improper threading,also hold the needle thread the first 3-stitches

I just checked & all we have is #22 in D point,the problem is with this needle is since it's so long it will bend & break aolt easier esp in the smaller sizes,now if you are always sewing thinner leather you can lower the needle bar down & you the shorter more common 135x16