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RockyAussie

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  • Website URL
    https://wildharry.com.au/

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rockhampton Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    improving skills

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saltwater crocodile leathergoods
  • Interested in learning about
    developing metal accessories for leatherwork
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google

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  1. Mostly your top tension looks to be too tight. Try turning back anticlockwise about 1/2 turn. It also looks a bit intermittent which could mean that the needle size should be a smaller size for that weight leather. What size thread and what size needle are you using here? Also are you using a leather point needle?
  2. Good to hear you have it sorted. Looks like a good machine for light watchband work and similar. If you ever get up Rocky way drop in for a yak. I have lots of shoe making gear and lasts to get rid of.
  3. I may be mistaken but I can not see the cut out scarf of the needle on the right side in your pictures above. The hook and the needle scarf always need to go together.
  4. The most important thing is having it set up right and very very sharp. This video I made should be of help -
  5. If it is of any help this video is a tall post machine I use when making some of our bags -
  6. I think you may find that the main problem you are having is caused by the top thread cones not being the right type for running vertically as you have them. Most leather workers would use cones with a splay at the bottom which stops the thread from getting hooked up as it pulls off of the cone at the bottom. Also most will use either a bonded nylon or bonded Polyester thread which will behave a lot better going the through the tension guides.
  7. I have in the past made several different size punches like this myself. I do find a bolt slightly smaller than the hole and wrap some tape around it to keep it firmly held in place for being hit with a mallet or hammer but loose enough to remove and get out the waste occasionally. I generally make up a mild metal shape about the same as the inside hole of the punch I am making and after a bit of shaping use it to refine the end shape of the punch. I make quite a few from stainless tube which works pretty well.
  8. Best I can tell 2.8 point is just under 1mm and from my experience 1.2mm is a good minimum width for clear stamping but this depends on the overall stamp somewhat. Thinner at the end of lines and in some texts it can still work fine.
  9. That is a nice looking glasses case. The edging could have been a little better but I have seen plenty a lot worse. I would not think of making it for under $60.00au which would be about 35 euro. Patterning time will often take longer than the actual job and I do use Autocad and a laser and 3D printing regularly as well. For me I would still be losing at $60.00au but the next time I would be in front.
  10. If the part you are sewing tappers thinner toward the edge it will often want to feed out away from that edge depending on what feet you are running as well.
  11. As @AlZilla mentioned above the needle tip shape type can give an angled stitch such as an LR which gives a saddle stitch look. A TRI point needle will give a straight stitch if that is what you want. If you are having to hold the job inward as you go you overcome this fairly well with a guide that is angled slightly closer at the back behind where the needle is. This video I ade some time back shows how you can pretty much set up a guide that does not require you to hold it at all.
  12. Thanks you for that Jonas, I had found that as well and sent him a message but unfortunately he has not been on LW since May this year. I may try and contact Seick as you suggested and see how that goes. I would really like to know what oil grade it takes at least. I was hoping that someone from Denmark or near to there may know something but no luck as yet. Thanks again for trying. Brgds Brian
  13. Does anybody have one of these that could advise me what grade of oil it should use?
  14. Mine is not great compared to most of my other machines for sitting at but I use an adjustable high stool which is close to standing height. That means the knees are not a problem as they barely go in under. I have an adler post as well that is set on an angle like the picture posted by @nylonRigging but that is how I bought it set up. I would be somewhat concerned about how the oil falls down and through on the tall post to do that without checking every oil hole for proper lubrication.
  15. This following link shows the tall post machine I have. Note that the max thread size is 138. The needle goes into the right side which is good for allowing wide products that can be held out in the open left side if that makes sense.
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