shoepatcher

It sounds like the safety clutch might have kicked out or the machine is out of time. We need to see some pictures of the machine. glenn

You can sew #138 thread on a Pfaff 335. Mine is set up to do sewing with a #23 round point needle. It is just in how you set up the machine. Works fine. glenn

Try contacting Bill's Sewing in Hildebrand. NC. Great place to deal with. They manufacture table tops for sewing machines as well. Telephone number is 1-800-4455657. Ask for Jones Decker. glenn

Sorry, Try this Number 1-828-397-6941 ort 1-800 445 5657. glenn

LovetoLearn, Contact Bill's Sewing in North Carolina. 1-800-445-5647. Ask for Jones Decker. Bill's besides being a great sewing Machine Dealer manufactures sewing machine tables. They should be able to get you the T-Molding you need. Tell them I sent you. Glenn Miller

AEMcClain, You can contact Landis Sales & Service in Arthur, IL. Ask fro Eli Schlabach. He rebuilds Landis 16 machines and has parts and needles. He should have the manual and parts list. Their telephone number is 217-543-3464. Hope that helps. glenn

shotgunwilly1117, Can you get us a few good close up pics of the throat plate where the needle goes down thru the plate and the end of the plate? glenn

You can get one from Proleptic, Inc. which publishes Shop Talk, a leather publication. However, they are not free. I myself have never minded paying for a manual unlike a lot of people on this site. Sometimes, that is the only way to get the critical information that you need on a particular sewing machine. I consider it just doing business. We buy a used machine but it does not come with an operations manual or parts list. You need it run the machine or order parts. Last time I looked, hooks or tension springs weren't free. Why would manuals be? If you can get them or a copy from a fellow Leatherworker, great but just don't expect to get it for free all the time. I have 3 file cabinets full of manuals I have been collecting for 30 years. A lot I got for free. Some I did not. Whenever you can get one for free, it is a gift and I am thankful for it. Just my point of view. glenn

One final thing, take the old spring out and wee if it has a grove worn in by the bobbin thread. If so, discard it. If not, and you are careful, you can re-bend the spring to make it work better, i.e. make the radius on the spring smaller by bending it with your thumb and index finger. I have done this a lot over the years and it works to put tension back into the tension spring. glenn

llucas, I talked to Allen at weaver. We believe you can use both the441 hook and bobbin in a 205. However, you can't use a 205 hook or bobbin in a 441 or 441 clone. Hope that helps. By the way, Bob Kovar carries a clone hook for a 205 I believe. glenn

Wow, That is one worn out hook!!!. It has been repaired a number of times so that the original is almost unknown. Any idea on the height and width of the bobbin in mm.? This also could be a hook someone made. It is that rough. glenn

Lukitustura, I need to see more pics of the shuttle hook and bobbin before I can tell you if the Hook that Constabulary has will work. Also, more pics of the machine in general. I have a few of these machines in my garage that will be rebuilt in the future. Seeing the hook and bobbin will tell me more about it. glenn

Bonded polyester thread is better in some applications than nylon. It has about 95% the strength of nylon, is more rot resistant to UV rays than nylon and does not stretch as much as nylon which is better for setting thread tensions. However, it may cost more than nylon thread that is comparable. I have found it to be a bout $1.00 more per spool. I have used both nylon and polyester wit h good results. On chaps, I probably would stick to nylon if it was me. glenn

Try Sew24.blogspot.com Go to the download section and scroll down to the 68 parts lists. This is the Durkopp/Adler blog site. You will fin manuals and parts list for older machines along with old brochures. glenn

C, That looks like the right one. Sometimes very hard to tell if that is the correct shuttle. I assume you checked it in the machine by hand? Does the bobbin fit? get me a few more pics of the old one from top, bottom and side view where the tension spring is. I like the machine. You going to restore it? glenn

C, Plus, if you repaint as well as recondition a machine, then decide you want to sell it, it is ready to go and you can usually get more money for a machine repainted to look good. I have found that to be my experience. Great job C! glenn

rac1812, You can either get a speed reducer to go with your new motor or get a servo motor that can be turned down as tot he speed without loss of torque. As to thread, I would think you would want to use #92 or #138 for sizes. I would use a cotton wrapped polyester which is a more waterproof thread. I would use #21 or #22 round point needles. Size #22 is about the smallest needle you can use with #138 thread. Just suggestions. glenn

rac1812, Needle bars used to have two timing marks on them. The top mark was the bottom dead center mark (BDC). the mark just below that was the timing mark meaning you ran the needle down to the top mark which was bottom dead center than raised it to the bottom mark which was the timing mark for the needle bar that you used to time the hook to. sadly, almost nobody puts those in anymore. Adler on their new M series, i..e. 867, 868, 869, 969, has a pin that you can put into the front of the machine . One place gives you top dead center for the take up lever, one for bottom dead center and one for timing the hook. This makes it so much easier because you have a point of reference to start with. glenn

Stoner, I may have an extra pan for a 1508. Let me check. Where are you located? glenn

Uwe, You will have problems bind around corners with seat belt webbing because it is not able to stretch around corners. To do that, you must have a bias material that will stretch. Even though your binder seems to be a symmetrical feed ( in that the binder walks with the feed dog), if the binding material will not stretch, you will not be able to do corners very well. Trust me on that. Straight lines, no problems. glenn

teched, I would replace the light with a new LED light. Those Singer lights never gave off much light to begin with. I may have a few in my shop. Also, blow the dust and lint out of the motor. It is packed in there pretty good according to the pictures you posted. Those model of Singer clutch motors are like tanks and will run forever if you take care of them. Great Find! glenn

Nice find on the machines. "One mans junk is another man's treasure" certainly applies here. glenn

rdf1967, Couple of questions. -How thick is the leather you are using? -Is the Artisan 1508 anything like the Juki 1508. What are the specs on the machine, i.e. how high is the lift, how thick a thread can it use, etc. We need to see pics of the machine. That will help to answer your questions. glenn

MoMatt, Did you purchase this machine new? If so, I would be bitching like hell to Nick-O-Sew. Clone or not, a new machine should be set up and check even if it is not made great. To me, from you description, the machine was not set up properly to start. If you bought it used, that is another thing. You normally get machines as is when you purchase them used unless stated from the start. There has been a few cases on the forum with used machines being sold as "reconditioned" or having been "gone thru" from Nick-O-Sew. We need to find out if these are isolated cases or the norm. If the norm, I would deal with them. I had a friend of mine a couple of years ago purchase an Adler 467-373 from them. Supposed to have been reconditioned. It was not and he had to go thru it himself after he got it plus it was almost 11 weeks late from the promised delivery time. He would have cancelled the order but already had money down and paid to them on the machine. Nick-O-Sews' reputation is starting to go down based on a few cases here in the forum. glenn

For info, I found a parts list for the 38 class Pfaff on Universal's web site under the Pfaff manuals. glenn