shoepatcher

One thing I would look at is the small , paddle shaped tension spring that is a the lower part of the needle bar. This serves the purpose of keep a constant tension on the needle thread from the take up lever to the needle. A lot of times this spring is either broke or has a grove worn in it by the thread. the only way to access the spring is by pulling the needle bar. To do so, you must completely remove the needle clamp and then drive out the tapered pin that connect s the needle bar to the drive piston. The pin is driven out from back to front. The tangle in the bobbin case is normally caused either by the hook not picking up the needle thread or the needle thread not clearing the hook as it goes around the hook. As to the foot, I have never seen one like this in 40 years of working on Singer shoe patchers. I think this one was custom made. Is there any part # on it?.. I would purchase a generic foot #82007 and try that as well. Hope that helps. glenn

One more thing, I would try a little heat on the mechanism to see if that might loosen it up. A small Butane torch for a few seconds my do the trick. Just be sure not to get it too hot! glenn

Check the needle screw. It looks to big to me. I believe the correct needle set screw is a #237. It is a short screw with a fairly flat head. Generic screws can be to big in the head size. glenn

Sporty1, Chances are it is froze up. There are a lot of chemical and sprays you can use. I would use something that isn't too caustic to start say a little Kerosene or WD-40. If that doesn't work, I would move on to a BB blaster or some rust cutter or brake cleaner. It may be froze up by dirt, old oil, or even rust. I would give it a good chance before looking for a different machine. glenn

See if you can get us a part # and then we can check with other suppliers! glenn

steveleather, I think that is the standard inner foot on those machines. Artisan should have a smooth inner foot available. I would call them. If you do not get any satisfaction, let us know on the board and we well tell you where you might be able to order a smooth foot. Most inside feet I have seen for the Pfaff 335 and it's clones have teeth. glenn

rockin b The 7-31 should use a 7x1 or 7x3 needle (which is a 794 like on a 205). These are round points. A 7x2 and the 794S are leather points and the 794S are available in most places. The Juki 562 is a small bobbin walking foot machine like the 111W155 but with reverse. it will sew chap leather all day. I never can get the Seiko models number correct so what is the Seiko Cw 8b? Is that the one like the Consew 227 or is it like the Consew 206? Either way, these are all good machine to sew leather with. glenn

Harrington, The Singer 108k20 I believe is a small cylinder machine. That being said, I would think a cylinder arm like a Consew 227, Pfaff 335 or Cowboy2700 would do the job nicely. The key with binders no matter what machine they go on is the set up. All the binders I have use or currently use in our plant our custom made by either Atlanta Attachment or Tennessee Attachment. Both companies require samples of what you are going to sew, samples of the binding, the size thread, the machine make and model you are using. These binder are not cheap but when set up properly, there is no comparison to a generic binder. Joe at Hockeymenders has done the same and I am sure he will agree with me. You get what you pay for! glenn

Send us a few more pics of the shuttle so we can see who made it. then we can figure where to get the replacement locking screw glenn

The Grey 30-1 machines were the last ones made before they went to the 30-10. Some parts for the 30-1 are no longer available. Depending on what you need, there are people such as Bob at Toledo Sewing that might be able to help you with parts. I have some parts as well as parts list and operation manuals. I believe the 30-10 machines came in the late 70's. The Green Adler patchers came out in the mid to late 50's. The grey 30-1 machines came out in the early 70's. Before the green machines, everything was black. Hope that helps. glenn

lb61906, The Singer 15-91 is a household machine. It can sew very thin leathers but not 12 oz. What you are looking for is a true walking foot machine be it flatbed or cylinder arm. I would contact Ron at Techsew, Steve at Cobra and Bob at Toledo Sewing. They all sell a variety of good walking foot machines and are very knowledgeable on sewing machines in general. glenn

the Honey colored one which is the 1245-706/47 is like mine. It is the newer machine. It is a lot like mine. Both machines are big bobbin. If it was a smaller "G" bobbin, would be a 145 or 245. The hammer tone machine is a C-class machine, L means for sewing leather, P means 4 motion drop feed, M means safety clutch, N means 6 mm maximum stitch length. I would assume the honey colored one is the same. These machines may use a system #190 needle. Mine does. You can also set them up with #134-45 needles or even 135x17 needles. These are very good German made machines. All my years of experience has shown that anytime Pfaff and Adler made a machine in the same class, the Pfaff is usually smoother running. I know Joe Esposito will agree with me on that., i.e. Pfaff 1245 vs. Adler 267 for instance. The hammer tone 1245 needs a good cleaning especially around the hook and bobbin case. I can see lint and dirt under the bobbin case gibs. The honey colored one may need it as well. All in all, a very good find If it was me, I would buy the honey colored one only because it is newer. Both seem to be very good machine and in good condition. Hell, buy both of them and sell one! Email if you have anymore questions. glenn

The 112W139 is a double needle version of the 111w155. Good machine for building bags with zippers and can be used in upholstery. I would pick it for that price. Wiz has a long arm version of that. The 300W-1 is a chain stich machine. Singer built the best one and those machines are in demand today since they are no longer made and parts are still available. glenn

WoodsideCo, Pics would be great. The color of the machines will tell us a lot. I have a honey colored 1245-706/47. It uses the 190 needle system. Great machine. I think the 1245-706/48 might be a little bit heavier model. Be sure to include the total model number on the brass plate for each machine. glenn

V8V8, I have a Singer 111G117. It is a 111W153 with a trimmer on it. Your machine is missing the trim knife mechanism which came in different gauges from 1/8" to 1/2" plus. The trimmer moved in conjunction with the feed dog. Great machine. Mine can trim 10 layers of Cordura at one time. It is not a fixed stitch length. You can change the SPI. It uses a different needle system. Not 135x17 but rather 126x11 which is a longer needle. The difference between the 111W116 and 111w117 is that the 117 had automatic bobbin tensioner. This one obviously has been gutted to make it into just a walking foot machine. The trimmer parts are no longer available from Singer and I have never found any generic ones. Consew makes a machine that might work for parts. Not sure on the model. 226VF or something like that. Hope that helps. glenn

Mira Design Group, The bobbin in a Consew 225 is not the same size as a bobbin in a large bobbin Singer 29 or large bobbin 30 Class Adler. The Singer and Adler shoepatchers use the same bobbin but the both must be large bobbin or both must be small bobbin machines. You can use up to #138 in the small bobbin patchers but you will not get a lot of thread on the bobbin because they are so small. Shoepatchers generally work well with #92 thread. Hockey equipment managers use #138 on top and #92 in the bobbin. I work with them a lot. glenn

Very good machine. Will handle up to #138 thread. Adler 's version of a Pfaff 335. Uwe just sold a beautiful one. glenn

FYI, The only place I have ever found that has the pinions (gears) for a 29-1 thru 29-4 is Pilgrim Shoe Company in Massachusetts here in the States. He has them made I believe in China but they are to the 29-4 gear specs. I think these are the same as the 29K1 thru 10 gears as well. glenn

llucas, Call Allen Weaver. He can walk you thru it just like he has on other things. glenn

Jeanette, I have a bunch of the oil bowls that screw on the top of the machine. Do you have the screw or is it missing? Send me a private email glenn

Fellow Leatherworkers, What do you think about starting a new category on the forum for instruction videos on working on sewing machines? That way, our members having trouble with a certain model and make of a sewing machine would have a category they could go right to see how a machine is timed, hook changed, etc. Uwe has done some great videos so far and I am sure there are others already on the forum as well as some on other types of leather working machines. If they were all in one specific category say Instruction videos for machinery, it would make it easier for all of us to find. Give us your input! glenn

Dikman, Check the amount of opening you have on the bobbin case finger and the U it fits into. As Eric said, you want the finger to just be held in that U opening. #138 thread is considered a heavy thread. You also want to check that the needle goes down into the slot in the hook and does not ouch either side of the opening if possible. I had to move the needle bar ever so slightly from left to right to get everything line up on a 335 we have at work. We used a #23 needle and #138 thread. lining everything up did take some time with this thread but it works fine. glenn

It sounds like the safety clutch might have kicked out or the machine is out of time. We need to see some pictures of the machine. glenn

You can sew #138 thread on a Pfaff 335. Mine is set up to do sewing with a #23 round point needle. It is just in how you set up the machine. Works fine. glenn

Try contacting Bill's Sewing in Hildebrand. NC. Great place to deal with. They manufacture table tops for sewing machines as well. Telephone number is 1-800-4455657. Ask for Jones Decker. glenn