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shoepatcher

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Everything posted by shoepatcher

  1. Eddieb, They do make pedals for stand up operations. What motor you choose will help determine a stand up pedal. Where are you located? This will also help to recommend a dealer or place to purchase the servo motor. glenn
  2. Please us the foot from the side and front as well so we can help identify it. glenn
  3. You can but it also requires a different take up lever and some other adjustments. Not a quick change. glenn
  4. I have seen a few of the factory electrified machines. This one has a slightly different motor however with a different clutch on it. Any Singer number or identification on the motor? The table does not have the cast extension piece on the back that Singer came up with to mount the motor. I would say it is not a factory issued set up. However, still could be a Singer motor. I would like to see more pics of the motor. It has the hub and shaft for a front mount wheel which I would change the balance wheel to. Part of the take up adjustment is missing. glenn
  5. Man, that looks nice! Great job on the table. Might consider making them to sell? glenn
  6. Nuttish, I am not seeing a bobbin case opener in the picture. It may be there but I do not see it in the picture. Give us a few more pics of the bobbin case area without the flip down guide. glenn
  7. jshep, You want to use 3L v-belts. The length of the belt you will have to determine from machine to motor. 3l belts fit the pulleys on sewing machines very well. You can get them from Sewing Machine Dealers or from Automotive stores. once you know the size, i.e. 38" or 39" etc. glenn
  8. Sends us some pictures once you have the original parts back in. Make sure they are close ups. This will tell us a lot and then we can make specific suggestions to you and how to fix it. glenn
  9. Send pics of what you have once the original parts are back in. We can suggest things but pics will tell us a lot! glenn
  10. It looks like you missed the thread into the take up spring but that will not effect the needle picking up the bobbin thread. The safety clutch might have gone out. It is the silver button on the base part of the arm which is on the right side. Take out bobbin and unthread needle. Press button down and turn balance wheel towards you until your hear a click.. If you hear the click, safety clutch has reengaged. If not, it probably was not the safety clutch. That leaves timing and a trip back to the dealer. glenn
  11. C, To my knowledge, the only short arm that Singer ever made with the large hook was the 29U171 which was made in Japan in the late 70's. It looked a little different than any other Singer shoepatcher. I have an original brochure on the machine. glenn
  12. C, The side wheel was on some of the subclass up to the 29k51-56. After that, the front wheel mount was an extra charge, not standard. Machines might have the front bub, but not the shaft and gear. The 29K70 came out after the 29k58,60 and 62 series. It came out only on its own. Don't know why. It was replaced by the 29K71 which was part of the 29K72 and 29K73 which was a series . very few parts changed in that series compared to the 58,60,62 series. glenn
  13. Jerseyfirefighter, Used hydraulic clickers usually start at about $3000.00 and up. Their is someone in New Jersey that sells used machines. I will try to find their info and get it to you. glenn
  14. Proleptic is the publisher of Shop Talk. They are in Ashville, NC. Ask for Dan Preston who owns it. glenn
  15. -H-3 means 11mm lift, H4 would be the high lift version at 14mm L- leather machine C- class. the D lass is the heaviest and has the largest diameter balance wheel P- means 4 motion drop feed N- means maximum 6 mm stitch length as does the 6 in the model number M- safety clutch not sure on the 1A glenn
  16. MadMax22, that 145 can definitely restored. What is the sub class on the brass plate? glenn
  17. we need pics of the machine!!! glenn
  18. Al,

    No real reason to separate the head form the arm, even for painting.  Those bolts are usually very tight, almost like lock tight.  As to paint, you might try a heat lamp on the machine after you have painted it.  Cheaper than sending it out. 

    I would just spray can it with black lacquer once you have primed it real good with a sandable heavy primer.  Make sure if you use black lacquer after you prime it that the lacquer will not lift or bubble your primer.   test it on something.  If it does, use black  gloss enamel , then clear coat over it after you have applied any decals

     

    glenn

    1. Evo160K

      Evo160K

      Thanks Glenn, I appreciate your support and advise.  Your help has been invaluable..  I'm going to do what you say if I can't perfect the japanning.  I've been experimenting with a couple of recipes, and actually I'm baking two small cast iron parts as I type, want to see how hard the japanning is when it cools.  Thanks again Glenn.

  19. Yes, that table is not for the Pfaff. It looks like the table was set up for some kind of serger or overcast machine. In todays world, you would want to replace the clutch motor with a servo motor for better speed control. The Pfaff 483 would sew light leather and vinyl. To make the machine work would require a new table top and motor. I would look at buying a walking foot machine , say a Consew 206 new because of the expense you would have to get this one up and running plus the 206 will sew heavier. JMHO. glenn
  20. Depending on the shape it's in, i.e. the table, type of motor, is it a 229 or 229R which has reverse, I would say it should sell for at least $800.00 and go up from there. glenn
  21. Bob, I was told some time ago but can't remember who told me that Isaac Singer donated machines to the North's cause and uniforms were sewn on them. glenn
  22. hackish, Might just be me but the tension spring in the shuttle looks to be a little bent in the picture, . i.e. look at the clearance opening of the spring to the shuttle. It looks large in the photo but in the illustration in the Singer manual, the opening is much smaller between the spring and the shuttle where the bobbin goes. Again, it might just be the way the picture was taken. glenn
  23. CherieKingsley, Sound s like when the stitch regulator was unscrewed, the eccentric that it screwed to might have slipped. It needs to be put back in the proper sequence to stitch correctly. Holding it in reverse when you adjust the stitch length to me means the eccentric was rotated by the reverse lever to make any stitch length changes. Without having the machine in front of me, could be tough. take a few pics of the underside of the machine mostly towards the wheel side so we can see more of it. glenn
  24. the deacon, C is correct. Singer feet will work on that machine so finding them should be no problem. Good luck with the machine. glenn
  25. MattG, Only one Durkopp/Adler is made in China at this time. It is the low end bottom feed apparel machine . All others including the M class machines such as the 867 are assembled in the old Minvera plant in the Czech Republic or in Germany where the high dollar station machines are made. Thea are all very good machines with very good prices! I do not know who sells new Durkopp/Adlers in Australia. hope that helps. glenn
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