shoepatcher

Bonding on thread is a clear polyurethane that locks the spun fibers into a much stronger bond for sewing. If you have ever stitched with non-bonded thread, you will know what I mean. No nearly the strength and it frays like crazy. I simply do not use it. Only used in certain applications where the thread might be stronger than the material you are sewing. Trust me, always use bonded thread whenever possible. glenn

I would also check the to see if the feeding is the same on the inner and outer presser foot. Sometimes, one foot is slight off, i.e. one foot rises higher than the other which can make a difference in stitch length. glenn

Chayse, With the threads at 3/16" x32, you should be able to find grade 8 bolt on line that you can cut an make a spool pin out of. I know I could make a hell of a lot of spool pins for $97.00! As to the tension assembly, you need to determine what the threads are on the tension assembly stud. I believe Consew made a copy of the 305-64. Maybe a 754 model bracket. I know I have seen clones out there somewhere. glenn

This Chandler 305-64 was made in Japan after Chandler, which had been the Adler distributor in America lost that distributorship. They went to Japan and had the machine knocked off. It is a copy of a Adler 105-64. As to the missing spool pin on top, you should be able to get one from Bob at Toledo. Probably get you one from a Cowboy. I believe this pin is only a pressure fit and not threaded. Hope that helps. glenn

Catskin, I just saw the manual you got on an earlier post. That is a Fipi side arm clicker. Contact Manufactures supplies in Missouri. They can help you. glenn

Catskin, Been a while. You can get a 5 horse rotary phase converter from Grizzly Tools for 995.00 plus shipping. 1-8005234777. That should be more that plenty for your machine. Want to see pics when it is finished. glenn

Clicker beds are rarely wood anymore. Most companies have gone to Polypropylene. They come in different colors which correspond to the hardness. leather us usually cut on the red boards which is about a68 on the harness scale. We use the white boards at work. it is a little harder because we cut foam, plastic and carbon fiber. You can get different thickness. If you need a thick board over 2", they can be glued to plywood. Contact Manufacturers Supplies in Missouri. They sell clickers and boards. glenn

Catskin, From an earlier post, I think that is either a Fipi or Atom. Contact Manufacturers Supplies in Missouri. They should have a manual. glenn

With a budget of 2k, you could get two machines. One would be in the Consew 206 class or clone, and then a higher speed drop feed machine for linings say Juki 5550. If picking them up, you would have change left over even buying the two machines. Just a thought but the two machines would be more versatile then trying to find one to do it all. Just my 2 cents. glenn

Juki 245 and 246 are the equivalent to a Pfaff 335 and they are made in Japan or in China for Juki. Should be cheaper than a Pfaff 335. glenn

On this Adler 205, to set the needle bar to the correct height with a 794 needle which is the correct needle system, you measure from the very bottom of the needle bar to the bottom of the oil holder which is the black plastic cover piece that the needle bar comes out of above the feet. That distance should be 44mm. This sets the correct height of the needle bar. Having done that, you then go under the arm and loosen the collar that holds together the bottom main shaft that drives the shuttle driver. You then time the hook having loosen the collar to the needle in the needle bar as described by Uwe above. This is from Allen at Weaver who has worked on these machines for over 20 years. I have used this system to correct and time the 4 205's we have at my plant. Hope this helps. glenn

The Adler 221 replaced the Adler 220. We have two 221 Adler here at the plant, one 20", one 30". I have a 20" Adler 220 at my home and I feel it is a better machine than the 221. I also have a Singer 144A204. Singer never had Adler make any 144W's for them, they were all 144A models. The "A" standing for Adler. These machines were Adler 220's in everything but name and paint color. I have also never been able to find a service manual for the 220, The 221 manual will work fine. These machines use a 7x23needle system. The stitch length dial can be adjusted on the main shaft to correspond to the correct length. Should be a screw to adjust the wheel the stitch length is on. glenn

Very Nice job so far trash treasure. Love to see it when it is done!!!!! glenn

Just keep the wick moist in the oil reservoir. When you are not sewing and the machine is at rest, put a paper towel or napkin under the feet. That will tell you how much oil is flowing out of the wick and you can adjust the amount of oil you put in the reservoir accordingly. We do that at our plant especially on Friday when the shift is over. They are checked on Monday before the operators begin their shift. glenn

Woodonglass, Send us a few pics so we can the machine. That may help in identifying why it will not work. A video would also help. glenn

mixmkr, That setup should keep the thread in the tension discs. I have used that on numerous machines over the years. Machine looks nice! glenn

Diyer, Send this info to Allen at Weaver Leather. I believe his email address is allenb@weaverleather.com . He can help you on other wick questions. I have purchased wicking and the rubber tubing for our 205's from Adler. They were not that expensive to get. I think you get 3 feet of wicking and about the same amount of tubing. However, they are two separate parts numbers. Cleanup looks good so far. glenn

Call Steve at Gateway Shoe in Illinois, Harris at Pilgrim Shoe IN Massachusetts or Blaze at Shoe Systems Plus in New York.. I guarantee one of them will know how to thread it. glenn

Redbone, We need to know specially what items you want to sew, i.e. leather, type of leather or cloth, thickness, weight of thread, etc. Once we know that, we can recommend what you should look for. glenn

That machine was a high speed version of the 69 class Adler. 1/8 " leather should be no problem for that machine at all. That is only 8oz. leather and an oil tan is not a hard leather at that. The problem may be the needle. I would check with Durkopp/Adler in Georgia and see what the difference is between a 134-35 system and a 2134-35 needle system and I mean the needle specs as length, size, etc. I am not familiar with the 2134-35 system at all. It had to be something special for that machine. Also, get us a few pics of the shuttle and hook area if you can. I would want to see the hook in relation to the needle and how it looks thru a seam cycle with the balance wheel turned by hand. glenn

Anybody had any dealings with Nick-O-Sew? Just wanted your input. glenn

Look s like a 153K or W 102. Bottom feed, needle feed machine. I can't tell if it is a walking foot from the pictures which would be ether a 153W or K 101 or 103. The walking foot is the one you want for sewing canvas and leather. These machines did not have reverse on them. I would call or email the customer selling it and have them tell you what model it is by the plate on the front of the machine. Will save you a trip if it is not a walking foot.. glenn

Diyer, Great. Let us know who we can help. They are great machines. Keep us up to date on your progress. glenn

Billroy, Thanks for the pics of the machine. The roller guide in the original parts manual was a complicated one that you could disengage with a lever. Today, there are some generic ones available that are relatively inexpensive. They all mount to the table in the two holes that you circled. Part # 6440, #RG1 and #G30 are parts numbers for roller guides. You would need (2) #284 or #286 thumb screws to secure it to the table. All of these parts are available on either Ebay or from our dealers listed above. glenn

Man, That one is in rough shape. Single needle post with roller feed and reverse. I cannot find anything as to manuals on the machine. Sorry. Will keep looking. glenn