shoepatcher

I have one of those charts as well. I believe any Singer with the W in the model number was made at their plant in Bridgeport, Connecticut which I believe was the old Wilson& Wheeler plant. glenn

It Is a U.F.A. machine. They were manufactured from 1878-1894 when Singer changed from names to model numbers The U.F.A. which stands for universal feed arm became the 29 Class. The long arm on top is on all U.F.A. machines and the 29 and 29-1. Not sure on the early K shoepatchers made in Scotland. The 29-2 had the first long drive rack on top which replaced the arm. This machine was made in Kilbowie because the treadle stand is a Kilbowie model vs. the stands made in the US which look a little different and are called the Elizabethport stand. Hope that helps. Nice collectors model.

I think the bore size is close to 1/2". I will have to check the replacement wheel I bought. glenn

Chrisash, The 29K series 29K51-56 of which your machine is one has very small teeth on the drive and following pinions as well as the drive rack underneath. These parts are critical because there are no replacement parts that I know of anywhere. I have some original pinion and a rack that are unused. The reason, to back engineer them to have them made which is a future project. The extra small teeth on the gears and racks raise the risk of wear and possibility of chipping so treat the ones you have on your machine with extra care. Just my two cents! glenn Constabulary, thanks for the parts list. glenn Thanks for the

Chrisash, The 29K series 29K51-56 of which your machine is one has very small teeth on the drive and following pinions as well as the drive rack underneath. These parts are critical because there are no replacement parts that I know of anywhere. I have some original pinion and a rack that are unused. The reason, to back engineer them to have them made which is a future project. The extra small teeth on the gears and racks raise the risk of wear and possibility of chipping so treat the ones you have on your machine with extra care. Just my two cents! glenn

A few new different ideas that work. glenn

Not set up yet. To much going on but I sewed on one at the auction. Much heavier than my current Pfaff 335. I especially like the 20mm lift in the feet. glenn

Weaver Leather has them in stock. I bought an D/A 669 head only at the annual Weaver auction in mid June. The heads were on sale at that time. Talk to Allen Burkholder in machine sales. They still have some heads available. All of them are the Eco versions I believe. No toys! They will ship to AUSTRALIA no problem.

Yes, The Pfaff needs a servo motor. However, the 1245 uses a larger bobbin and it is a smoother machine. I have had and sew on both a Pfaff 1245 and a Adler 267, not a 67GK373. The Pfaff is a better machine especially if it is a German made one IMHO. glenn

Not made any longer that I know of. glenn

that sounds high for a 1342 without toys.

gorgeous!!!!! glenn I am so pleased when someone reclaims an old machine and restores from a pile of scrap metal. lots of work and a labor of love. glenn

Best to weld cast iron with a nickel rod. Stronger but the welder must have so skill to do it. glenn

beautiful. makes hand sewing easier. It will be hard-pressed to do as good with Cowboy 3200. glenn

Vicky, Can you post pictures? Thee are a couple of different casting models made of this machine. I think what yo have is the newest model and the parts list and operations manual are on line or here on this web site. glenn

The Juki 245, 246 machines are Juki's version of the Pfaff 335 machine, Adler 69 and Consew 277. They use Singer feet. Juki is still making the 245, 246 machines. As to throat plates and feed dogs, I am not sure which if any Consew parts will work. I doubt the Adler 69 or Pfaff 335 parts will work so that means buying genuine because there are very little clones being made to my knowledge. I have sewn on a 245 and it could handle some thickness over 5/16 ". If you are sewing heavy or hard leather, no. Overall, a pretty good machine but not for tack are harness just like the Pfaff335, Adler 69 and Consew 277. Good for a lot of hockey repair though. glenn

I have some odd bobbins that I got in a old shipment some time ago. Would you like me to send you one of each to see if they will work? You just cover the shipping. I will get you specs of the bobbins. One thig you must do when you get the hook made. Make sure you harden it. glenn

teeth are probably worn on the bottom as is the long drive rack

Nickle better to weld cast iron with. But you have to know what you are doing glenn

looks great so far. glenn

Also, see if the take up lever is coming up to high. If so, it can cause the top tension to be to tight. That can be regulated by means of the screw in the piston and knurl lock washer. Most people forget about this function on a Singer shoepatcher. glenn

I believe they began to make the Landis #1 in the late 1860's or early 1870's. best I have at the moment. I now of now one who has a chart for dating Landis #1, #3 machines. glenn

Now, here is the good part. A new hook can be made on a #3-D printer. The shoepatcher on steroids I got in Australia a couple of years ago has the very large hook. I have talked with a 3-D manufacturer and distributor. He feels the hook can be made out of stainless steel on a 3-D printer including the taped screw threads and a hard Rockwell !!! Your hook can probably also be made on a 3-D printer. The hook would have to be scanned on CAD but it would be cheaper than having to build and polish one on a mill. from scratch. I figure about $200.00 or less to have it down but you do not have many choices like me. Your hook is different than any that I have as to size.

I would need to have an overall dimension of the opening in the shuttle carrier to see how big the hook could be, then we have to figure out a bobbin to fit it. I would make a new shuttle carrier so that we can start fresh on what the hook should fit into. glenn

Do NOT have to take the safety clutch off the axils to change them. There are 2 springs. Change one of them at a time and adjust the depth of the set screw that goes on top of the spring to set the spring tension. They are sealed with a plastic material on top of the Allen set when they are set at the factory. If both springs have been adjusted, start with one. back out old spring, insert new spring and screw Allen screw down about one third of the threads in the hole. Try it. It may have to go in more or out more. I had to trial and error it on the 1295 I was working on to get it about where it should be. Turn Allen screw in to increase tension, out to decrease tension. glenn