shoepatcher

$400.00 . head only? glenn

To let everyone know, that is a Durkopp shoe patcher, either a 17 or 18 class. They use either system 81 or system 88 needles. There are no parts being made today that I know of anywhere. Hitler seized the company in 1933 and turned it into a bayonet factory. It was bombed in 1942 or 43' and destroyed. Durkopp never again made the shoepatcher until they bought Adler. In fact, the 30 class Adlers today are no even made by Adler. Rather, they are made under contract to Adler by another Germany company. That is one reason parts are so damn expensive!!! I hope to do something on Adler 30 class parts when I retire in 2 years. I also want to look at Durkopp and Bradbury parts. I have some parts now for the 30 class Adler's that are no longer made. glenn

One thing to note: Is the old belt a black rubber or is it the clear material with the steel cables in it. If the old belt was clear and the new one is, there is absolutely no stretch to those belts. The grey Consew's made by Seiko used those belts and they were not fun to put on. What color is your machine, the old belt and the replacement? glenn

Send us pics of the machine so we can what it is. Pics tell a lot on a sewing machine. glenn

Most Pfaff 335's including mine can handle #138. I have even seen a few handle #207 on top and #138 in the bobbin. Never seen one handle #277 thread. I would love to see that Hermes video on the 335 with huge needles and thread.

P means it has 4 motion drop feed. M means it has a safety clutch but almost of them have safety clutches now so you almost never see the M on Pfaff model tags now. S means it is for cloth. glenn

I tend to think the bushing may be just "locked up" since it may have never been removed. With the belt off, I would spray it with some BB blaster or rust breaker type material like Kroll Oil and let it set. Remember. you need to get it between the bushing and the casting. You said you loosen all the screws but I have to ask. Did you loosen the set screw that holds in tight in the back of the machine? This bushing may have never been removed and if so, they feels like they have been glued in. I had one in a Singer some years ago and ended up driving on it with a piece of wood and brass rod before I got it loose. There are other concoctions that members have come up with to loosen rusted items on machines with. I am not saying it is rusted, just very snug. I do not know what the post on this website was called. I would check that that out if the other items do not work. I would resist the urge to heat it up with a torch. Good luck glenn

Jimi is right. It is a Seiko SLH series machine which is their copy of the 7 Class Singer. glenn

CaroCaro, Your machine is a 335-17B H2L That means it was originally a binding machine (subclass 17) It is a B class as to ability to sew items. C is a heavier class than B, D is the heaviest machine in that class. These letters usually mean the hole in the feed dog would be smaller and the balance wheel may or may not be smaller. The H2 is the lift. H3 being 11mm, H4 is the High lift at 14 mm clearance under the presser foot. Not sure what the lift is on the H2 machines, L means for leather. No P so there is no 4- motion drop feed on the feed dog, it just goes back and forth. I have the instruction manual and the parts manual for the machine but it is not on a PDF file, only hard copy. glenn

What is the name of your company? glenn

Please send us pics of the machine so we can see how old it is. That way, we know what manual you are looking for. glenn

C, That is a Claes. Notice it resembles a Adler in a a lot of places but the take up lever shows it to be a Claes. Thanks C! Keep them pics coming!!! glenn

Like Bob said, the small pre-wound bobbins for a Singer and Adler is style #19. The big bobbin Singer and Adler pre wound is style "I". glenn

I will check tonight to get the number or letter that designates the bobbin size on the pre-wound. Most often, they are in a #69 thread. glenn

Send us some pics of the machine. I know the machine model but want to see pics of it to see if it has been "played with". glenn

C, We need more pics of the machine and some close ups shots!! glenn

Any chance of seeing more pics of the old harness shop? I am particularly interested in more pics of the equipment in the shop. glenn

Hell of a deal on the Pro 2000! The Efka motor and synchronizer alone is worth $700-800.00 new. glenn

For everyone's information, I was told by a very reliable source early last year that Schmetz had move d their production from Germany to India to cut production costs. I have noticed in the past year that Schmetz delivery on needles has become noticeably slower that in the past. Groz-Beckert needles are right up there with Schmetz when it comes to quality. We use them everyday in our plant because they make a Titanium coated needle in systems 134-35 and 135x17. Schmetz does not make a Titanium coated needle. The TI coated needles definitely last longer and do not heat up as much as the chrome plated needles. just my 2 cents. glenn

PonyEdwards, Can we get pics of the of the #3 machine to see what it looks like? glenn

57 Leather, Call Henderson Sewing in Alabama 1-800-932-0507. They carry a lot of Pfaff parts. As to the feed dog and inner presser foot, the needle, I can enlarge them for you. What you need to do this is Mitchell Cord and or a Dremel with a carbine bit. Not hard to do. glenn

I am confused. Is this when you are winding a bobbin or starting to sew with a new bobbin in the machine? glenn

57Leather, You can run up to a #24 needle in a Pfaff 335 class C or D. It may mean enlarging the hole in the throat plate and or resetting the hook and needle guard in relation to the needle. I have run and do run #23 and 24 needle in the Pfaff 335 machines we have at work and on mine at home. I have never run #207 in the machine. #277 thread is harness weight thread and should never be run in this class of machine. glenn

It looks like someone installed a Singer #168101 bobbin case and or hook in your machine. Consew's 226 was a copy of the Singer 111W155 and the Singer 168W101 and 168G101 were the post versions of the 111W155. and had a different bobbin and a cap on the bobbin case. If it was me, I would change it out only because the cap can be a pain when changing bobbins. Also, the 168 bobbin does not have a slot or hole in when it comes to winding a bobbin. I have had a few #168W101's and they were a good machine. glenn

This is indeed the older style 756R. The machine actually looks heavier than the 441 clone. However, it does not sew as well as the 441 clone or 205 Adler. It will sew some heavy items. Plus, the feet are different than a 205 or 441, so those feet normally will not work. Still, $1000.00 is not a bad price and the machine looks to be in good shape. Just my thoughts. glenn