shoepatcher

Steve, A Bradbury is never worth anything close to that, even restored. I would say that machine is worth a max of maximum of $1,500.00 it nit's present state. I have bought them unrestored for as little as $100.00 There are no parts. Bobbins and shuttles are like "hens teeth", they don't exist. glenn

Is the machine set to High lift when you are sewing? shoepatcher

Oldtoolsniper, Based on the color of the machine in that it is grey in color, chances are it was made in 1988. If it was 1966, the color of the machine would have been a light green metallic. The 30-1 is a long arm, small bobbin regular lift shoe patcher. It uses the System 332 needle which are the shorter ones. The 30-5, 30-7 use the longer ones which is the 332LG. The 332 system is the same as a 29x3 system for round points. The 332L is a leather point like the 29x4. I would go to the 135x17 needle system because it is almost exactly the same as a 29x3 or 332 but it is more common, has more sizes readily available, more leather tips available in the 135x16 system. Know this, the 135x17 is round point, the 135x16 are leather points. Also, the 135x17 is available in a Titanium coating which makes the needles last a whole lot longer. The machine has a lift of 10mm. Depending on what you are sewing, you should be able to sew anything up to 5/16". I have set machines to sew 3/8" but that needs some "special" adjustments. As for needles, there are only 3 good companies left. (I am not counting Orange needles which are made in Korea.) Grotz-Beckert, Schmetz, and Organ. Both G-B and Organ make 137x17 in Titanium coating. The Adler will use the same bobbins and shuttles as the 29K Singers. Hope that helps. glenn

As Constabulary stated, these machines are for shoe repair generally. You have a 29K60 which is a big bobbin Singer. I have adapted these machines for hockey repair but you still can only sew about 5/16" of heavy leather with them and your stitch length would be a maximum of 5mm and that is pushing it. Not a production machine as we know it today. shoepatcher

Steve, Textima built the Claes shoepatcher machines for a number of years. German company. Your Textima looks a lot like a "Bull" made on a 205-64 Adler head. I would try getting a parts list for that model to see if they look a like. send us more pics of the head from various angles so I can see how close to a Bull it is. glenn

A couple of other things I forgot to add. Both the Eco and Classic models of the 969 are direct drive, meaning the motor is built into the head. That price includes motor. You need air to run the foot lift on the Eco model as well as the Classic model. These machines only come in a 220 volt, not 110. So unless you have a dedicated 220 breaker and plug in, you will need a transformer to run it on 110 volt which means an additional cost. Transformers are not that expensive which is good. I believe Adler is making a mistake by not keep the 205 out there for another couple of years until the 969 is established. Only time will tell who made the right call on the 205. glenn

I just wanted to let everyone know that I have it on good authority that Durkopp/Adler has ceased production not only the 204-370, but the 205-370 as well. Those machines are being replaced with the 967 and 969 which by the way, are still not available and for a lot more money! In my opinion, Adler did this way to soon since neither machine is out yet and has yet to be proven in the marketplace. My sources tell me the ECO version on the 969 will be selling in the $8,500.00 range! If anyone is looking for a 205-370, you had better get one as soon as possible. shoepatcher

the serial number. I have never seen a Consew breakdown as to manufacturing dates. I am sure one exist and the serial number would date it as to the manufacturing day or month or even year. Anybody ever seen a list for Consew machines??? glenn

Singer used a few thumb screws for securing throat plates and swing guides. -part #680 was a 3/16" x 32tpi or the following were #200549, #200462, #200861. All of these were 13/64" x 32tpi. Just slight bibber than #680. I believe all are still available from dealers or on the net. glenn

Send pics so we can see the machine. Bob Kovar at Toledo might have a threading instruction sheet.. glenn

No, The horn built for a hinge stud has no threads like the earlier horns that had a threaded hole for the screw #84. That thread size by the way is 3/16" x/28 pitch or roughly a 10 x 28. The normal pitches for screw size #10 is 24 tpi for the coarse and 32tpi for the fine. the 28pitch is an odd ball. Singer did that for good reason so you would have to buy the screws for them!!! glenn

Should work. Both are small bobbin machines. I don't have my parts list in front of me. What machine was the needle plate #82234 made for? . If it is the big bobbin machine, they are normally a little longer and wider than the needle plates for the small bobbin machine. The other problem may be in the needle screw. Assuming the 29K62 still has the treaded hole where the needle screw #84 goes, it will work. Some 29K62 machines had the newer hinge stud with the set screw to hold the needle plate down. All 29 class machines up to the late 29K58, 60, 62 used the #84 throat plate screws. Later models may or may not have the hinge stud and set screw. Best way to check is to see if there is a threaded hole in the front of the horn below the throat plate hole. If there is, it uses a stud and set screw. if not, it uses screw #84. glenn

Luckyclover, Adler does not make this part anymore to my knowledge. It is call the top rack. They discontinued a lot of the parts for the early 30 class series. I have some new old stock of this item. You can email me at shoepatcher@yahoo.com and we can talk.

Thanks Paul. I will call him. glenn

Anybody know if there is a US distributor for Joseph Dixon leather punches? I am looking for a couple round leather punches in the smaller sizes. Any information would be much appreciated. shoepatcher

Yes. the 152-155 should get about a maximum 7.5mm not 8.5 as I stated earlier. I checked the specs in the manual. That is a stitch length of 3.5spi. Singer always quoted spi, not the length of the stitch. Adler and Pfaff always had it in mm as to stitch length. the 156-157 was 5spi. As Sark9 stated, you can get a longer forward stitch but it will mean a lot smaller back stitch length. shoepatcher.

That is all you are going to get on a Singer 111W156 or 111W157. Both have reverse and the maximum stitch length on these machines with reverse is about 5.5 SPI.. No reverse like a Singer 111W152-111W155, the stitch length is about 8.5 SPI. Sorry. shoepatcher

make sure you drill holes in the body of the part you fabricated. That part had a wick inside of it with oil holes in it. other parts I would buy since they are not tow expensive. When ordering from Luke at MJ Foley, ask him for both genuine and generic parts and prices. A lot of times, the generic parts are as good as the genuine and a lot cheaper, especially for your Juki since it is a copy of the original Singer 111W155. Just my two cents. I deal with Luke all the time so I know parts and prices. glenn

Call MJ Foley in New Baltimore, MI. They are the largest Juki dealer in America. Phone number is 586-948-6070. Ask for Luke. He can get you any part for the Juki LU563. shoepatcher.

try Toledo Sewing, Weaver Leather or M.J Foley in Michigan. All three of them carry the 794 system needle in standard points and in various sizes. shoepatcher

I checked the Adler site and they do have an operations manual for the #20 class that you can download. it includes instructions for threading machine. that site again is Sew24.blogspot.com Go to the download section at the top of the page. will bring up various items for different models. Look under Adler 20. hope that helps. shoepatcher.

You might try to find a operations manual for the Adler 120-2 which followed the #20. You may find it on Adler blog site Sew24.blogspot.com I would also try contacting Michael Simard Ltd. in Canada. A very large Adler dealer who has a lot of older Adler parts. They might even have an instruction manual on the machine. shoepatcher

Email Bob Kovar at Toledo Sewing here in the states. He should be able to tell you in there is anyone in Australia. shoepatcher

If I read you correctly, the outside foot is two pieced? Can you remove the outside foot from the round shaft that holds the foot on? if so, get me a picture fo the shaft with the foot removed> shoepatcher

Your Pfaff post 175 looks like a Pfaff post 195 but with the hook on the left side. The outside presser foot looks like the foot on a Adler 467. This is not the same as the outside foot on a Pfaff 145, 195, 535, 335, etc. I would look at the Adler outside feet. The inner foot looks like regular feet for the 145, 195, 335, etc. and Adler 467, 767 feet. I assume the outer foot is the one you are having trouble with? Could we see a picture of the back of the outside foot? shoepatcher