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Brianm77

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Everything posted by Brianm77

  1. Brianm77
    Stones are good, but imho, the stones will get a dead spot in the middle or wherever you are doing the sharpening. You can get a special stone to flatten them back out, or on a buget you can do the sandpaper 180g or so on a piece of good flat stone or glass and flatten your sharpening stone back out. If you do it more often it takes less to get back going again. With just a few strokes across the paper you can see the black spots go away on the ends.
  2. Brianm77
    Anyone?
  3. Brianm77
    Another similar option would be rubber stamp. I think I saw a video of Ian Adkinson with rubber stamp on leather.
  4. Brianm77
    Could you not print on 3oz at home and glue to a piece of 6/7 oz. or use it for an inlay panel, just a thought.
  5. Brianm77
    Pm sent
  6. Brianm77
    +1 on the multiple shallow passes. I was going to mention that, but it slipped my mind.
  7. Brianm77
    I am from Waco.
  8. Brianm77
    So if you are using chrome tan or veg tan leather the heat makes the crease stay, right? does heat help with or do anything else with the crease?
  9. Brianm77
    Saw these while snooping around on YKK web sight. Though it they may help. http://www.ykkfastening.com/products/plastic_hardware/buckle/lb-ts.html
  10. Brianm77
    That helps but I believe we are talking about two different things. I was referring to the t-pockets them selves. That also looks like a rolled edge to me but has an additional crease. Seems like a nice way to dress up the pocket itself. I looked for all kinds of rolled things on the internet and couldn't find much.
  11. Brianm77
    Glad to hear it!!
  12. Brianm77
    I have been pretty much teaching myself by reading and watching stuff on the internet and looking here. It looks like some kind of rolled edge. Can someone tell me what has been done to the edge here. Also were I can go to learn how to do it. Thanks in advance.
  13. Brianm77
    So if it is going all the way through try picking up the back of the tool just slightly. And like someone else said it may be the kind of leather you are using. Only project other than practice I have used it on was chrome tanned on half and a oily pull up on the other side. I was able to get both sides down to about the thickness of about 20 sheets of paper, which is what I was after. Hope that helps. Brian
  14. Brianm77
    Yes sir, it still may sag a little but not near as much. And it will last a lot longer. You want one slide as far as the height of your drawer will slow apart from the other, and they need to be parallel. You will be happy you did. Ps. I am glad you did not take offense, that was ment to be nothing but constructive. So often nowadays, people get but hurt on boards and Facebook and such and over nothing. I was really worried about it when I was typing but wanted to help ya out.
  15. Brianm77
    Don't take this the wrong way. I have been doing wood working for 20 years and I figured I would point something out that is going to cause you problems in the not to distant future. I would mount another drawer slide right above the one that is there, on the drawer with the gloves. Parallel with the first one. It will take the sag out and make it last much longer. But very nice cart!!
  16. Brianm77
    I tried, with very poor results I might add, to skive. Then I bought one of these from the Tandy store, as long as the blade is crazy sharp, it is supprising how easy it is to use, and get good results. The blade will start getting a little dull and I run it across the strop and we are good to go for a little bit. --edit-- I forgot the link https://www.amazon.com/Skiver-3025-00-Replacement-Blades-3002-00/dp/B00IVS92WK%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-iphone-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00IVS92WK
  17. Brianm77
    Have a look at McMaster-Carr on the internet. Huge selection of hardware (not leatherwork, but hardware in general)
  18. Brianm77
    Sounds like the video you are looking for was don by leodis leather. If I remember right in that video, he has to sleeve on of the things he is trying to press with. Good luck, brian
  19. Brianm77
    I was in the Tandy store today and saw something similar. I think the peg may have been in the middle. Maybe worth a look
  20. Brianm77
    This is a kyoshin Elle & Co. #3 edger. I bought it cause I wanted another size other than the one I have. I like the quality of all the other Japanese tools I have. This one seems to be good quality also. I just don't like it. My loss is your gain. It has only been used 3 times. I buffed on it a little but could still use a little work. From goods Japan, it was $30.99 plus shipping. I would like to sell mine for $25.00 plus shipping. May also be interested in a trade. let me know what you got.
  21. Brianm77
    Well then maybe what I have are not pricking irons. They have straight prongs long enough to go through more than 10 or 12 oz of leather. Some craft-sha som seiwa and some cheapie from amazon that I have also been pretty happy with.
  22. Brianm77
    Even the stuff I ordered that came from Germany took only about a week.
  23. Brianm77
    I have had decent luck with fiebings reducer instead of alcohol. I did not like how dark the light brown was either. I used between 2:1 and 5:1 can't remember now and it worked good. Neetsfoot oil first like stated before. As far as the pricking irons, if they are the same ones i use then why not pound all the way through, sure is a lot faster. Maybe a more seasoned leather worker can chime in with advice on that, but that is what I do.
  24. Brianm77
    Her is mine, unlike most of y'all here my first is only a couple months old. Looking back I can say horrible attempt at edge dressing(I have since gone back and re done it). Did not even touch the belt slots cause I did not have a way to get in there.
  25. Brianm77
    http://www.amann.cz/barevnice/20160826/serabraid.pdf here is is a link to the info. They have a color card and size info etc there
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