Brianm77

i started out a few months ago. I bought a few different sizes of thread, needles and such. At first only one set of stitching chisels. With that size the 1mm thread looked best. Everything I have done to this point has been with the 1mm thread. I think I have made some pretty decent to nice looking stuff. Well I am looking to try new stuff. I bought a couple smaller chisels, I had a few small spools of some smaller thread. So here is my question. You guys that pretty much make 1 off stuff, what thought process do you use when choosing a spi, thread size and distance away from the edge? the pic is of a piece of scrap chromexcel stitched with .6mm tiger thread and .8mm tiger thread.

I have had pretty good luck with a local saddle shop in my area. If you can find one, stop by and ask if they will sell 3 or 4 sq feet

Thanks for the input everyone!!

How about the plain ones, do not many people use those?

So it just take a $30 min from OTB to make an account? Is there like a yearly min?

Just lookd at SLC and they had something similar to what I was looking for but has a concho adapter, I will call them in the morning and see if I am just missing it, or maybe the have it and it is not listed or something.

I for sure am not going to buy kits. I need to make a wallet and wanted to make a few more. Those pics are from another maker. The problem with brass I think would be not enough spring back to hold its shape. Can an someone tell me what the minimum is for Ohio travel bag? As far as the belt clip, that is what I figured. I am looking for the money clip version. Both clips. Springfield is the only one of those I haven't checked, well also Tandy. I had not intended on checking Tandy though.

Hmmm, something to think about. How thick of stainless? How well does it hold up over the years?

I have a request for a wallet, and I was thinking about building a few anyway. Now I am in the need of some money clips similar to the ones shown. The one on the left I would like a little more gradual slope to the end. I have looked what seems like all through the internet and they either look built cheap or they want $80 or some crap. My question is does anyone have a source for quality wallet parts like these clips that won't cost an arm and a leg?

+1 for weldwood. I tried taking apart a money clip that I messed up on, it was stuck so good I almost had to start over. When I was pulling it apart I was getting worried that I was not going to be able to salvage the inner layer.

I am tons more hobby than pro, I would agree with the use of arbor press. This was done with the half ton model from harbor freight. Couldn't go wrong for $60 stamps still had some ink and cut in leather. But it was on a piece of scrap.

Yes sir I did. Thank you. Are you ready to place an order?

When I was referring to being hard I was talking about the mixture of oil and wax. I don't think it will harden the leather. If anything soften a bit. But every pair of chaps I have seen has been soft as anything anyway. If you want to stiffen it a bit, you could use the nubuck for the majority of it and add a border, trim, maybe other decorative pieces out veg tan. I would go for it and not look back

I don't really see a problem with nubuck on chaps, especially on someone that young(limited knowledge of horse riding). As far as waterproofing, I have really taken a liking to half neatsfoot oil -pure not the compound- and half beeswax. When I was melting mine, I did not think there was enough oil. Thought it was going to be to hard so I added a little more oil. It is still hard but workable. As always try on a scrap first. And keep in mind nothing is waterproof but that gets pretty close.

And possibly longer dry time

Nearly anything applied to leather will darken it slightly. Either be very careful or you can give all of it a bath in saddle soap... or antique paste... I struggle with that a little myself.

The flesh side should have two coats. The first let it dry tales 20-30 minutes. It does not hurt to do it on the skin side also, but mainly the back side. Ooz oh out is not the end of the world but I would at her not have it. It can be difficult to sand away sometimes.

You can try this. Everything I have thrown at it so far has looked almost as good as veg tanned.

Lol, that is pretty funny. A good drill press is not that expensive especially if you use it that much.

I have also seen guys use a pice of an old credit card. I have been looking for some that are aluminum or plastic, so they won't stick to a magnet. May wind up cutting up an old card myself.

I found a set of these for like $6 at hobby lobby with the model car stuff. I did not like the crappy brush that came on the little weldwood bottle. They work great. A dab of paint thinner or mineral sprits on a paper towel and they come clean even after several days. Cheap brushes I have always been afraid that the brush will come apart. Hope that helps.

Never would have thought... I googled it and only Japanese stuff came up. Oh well. Free shipping atleast

I wonder if the wax would help it last though. I have some of that on order also. But takes a while on the slow boat from Japan...

I got some of the the antique and it really seems to be working really nicely. Question though, can you wax over the antique? I was gonna try on a piece of scrap tomorrow. He he already has the motor, which is the biggest expense. The rest is pretty cheap and it would be a pretty easy build.

Here is a close up of locking the thread without a knot, that someone was describing above EDIT --- I pass the needle through the thread 3 times instead of twice. Only because my daughter was stitching one time and needle slipped off when the loop pulled out