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Brianm77

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Everything posted by Brianm77

  1. And they have really cheep regular shipping.
  2. Brianm77

    Pricking Chisel

    Are you talking about pricking irons or chisels that you drive all the way through your project?
  3. Sorry I did not see this till now, i used 6-7 oz on mine on both sides
  4. I might be, sent a pm
  5. Brianm77

    Shearling

    Is there anybody here that does not use all of their scrap and would like to get rid of some?
  6. Lol!!! Isn’t that the truth small, pretty simple knife sheath would be doable. Like biker said you can pre cut, etc, get some of it knocked out before they get there. You could do do something in the morning, let it dry and come back in the evening for the next step. Just a thought. It is a lot of fun getting your kids out to help or in your case grandkids
  7. I think water based may be obvious, but any brands or types of dyes that alcohol does not work with?
  8. That is something to consider. If you don’t mind my asking where did you get those made. And how much does something like that cost?
  9. Sounds to me like you already have the tool and supplies, that is the biggest part of this project. Most of the guys here will be glad to help with advice or answer questions you may have. This belt will be a little time consuming to get the layout right, but it would be pretty easy. A templet would help with the layout time. And if you do not feel comfortable with stitching then the stitches could be replaced with Chicago screws or rivets. But even the stitching is pretty simple. A little practice on scrap and you could be putting out fine belts in no time.
  10. A while back I made a kinda sample card of the dyes I have, https://imgur.com/gallery/idHNj i have thought about doing this same thing for different kind of leather and colors etc. my concern is oily leathers leaching colors and oils onto other pieces next to them. So I would love to hear yall’s ideas on how to.
  11. +1 for not using magnets. Just my $.02 I would stick it in your pocket just like it is and use it for a week before you do anything. I think it will work a lot better than you think just like it is.
  12. I did this one, but I just cased the leather and worked the leather with a spoon and folder around the wrapped multitool as the leather dried. I did go back about every 15 minutes or so and work with it a little till it dried. Cut the molded front to the final shap. Then glued it down to the back and trimmed the back to fit the front.
  13. I know a this is an old thread but I figured I would pass it on. There in a place in central Texas, Makers Leather Supply. They are putting out “Pattern Rubs” pretty reasonable. Most are production artwork, but for money of coarse they do custom ones. Here is their website but if you want one of these I would give them a call http://makersleathersupply.com/
  14. Well those look awesome, I got a few on the way. Thanks! Brian
  15. Hmm I will check that out, thanks!
  16. https://imgur.com/gallery/dWH8r my problem seems to be with soft textured leather. Like this money clip I finished recently. Marked the lines, pretty hard I might add, with dividers. Did both sides. When I was done you could not see the first set if stitch lines. I have made several out of this leather and some out of similar and had to marke 1 line with the divider and immediately mark with that marker. Everything I have done with smooth leather did not need any extra attention after the divider. I was just wandering there has got to be a better way or at least a better marking device
  17. My current process for stitching is this, mark with divider or awl, poke holes with stitching chisel, stitch. If I am using soft chrome tan that has a lot of texture and the mark left on the leather is not visible very long then I go right after the marke and trace it with a marker I found at Tandy. That marker is sometimes hard to remove, I use saddle soap and it helps. One leather I used some did not seem to like the saddle soap very much. It dried it out really bad and seemed to remove some of the color. My question is what is the alternative? I would love to here about the product or process that some of you use to put temporary marks on leather.
  18. To help you get throu this project, 1 option is to cut a new back. Use the larger piece as a templet and cut the back to it. you can take or leave it, just thought I would throw it out there
  19. https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Super-Skiver-3025-00/dp/B0036KZ9KC?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-iphone-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0036KZ9KC i have used one of these, mine has a little curve to the blade though, with a little luck on some pretty stretchy leather. I chose this style cause I felt like it would be wiser to control. I have not used a push style or a round knife. On the stretchy part I got some pretty diecent results with some practice and stroping. Not near as easy or as pretty as veg tan. It did make a pretty good rolled edge I believe. It did take a while though.
  20. You can try alcohol, a lot of dyes have alcohol as the main ingredient anyway. Giving this thread a bump to follow myself
  21. If you are going to cut on a mat, then lay a big sheet of cardboard or a few planks of vinyl flooring on top. If it gets damaged with a few cuts, dye, grease whatever it is easy to replace. I have been thinking about flooring on mine for a while just have not done it
  22. I don’t mind doing it here. If I get under cut by a dollar don’t bother me much. And biker can have the other or not. I was not going to worry with selling it. I was thinking $18 plus a couple bucks shipping. It is a Osborne that has only been used on a couple rivets, #9.
  23. I have a rather new C.S. Osborne that I would let go in a week or two. I would like to buy a round set.
  24. I don’t have a makers mark or a logo yet. Still trying to come up with a name. I have been leaning towards rusty nuts leather, or something of the sorts. When I build something out of metal it always seems to covered in rust. It is either cause I have had that piece of metal for 10 or 15 years, or I am to cheep to buy a stick for 5 or 6 feet. And I am always fighting rust on my tools, shop not sealed off very good. And it kinda fits my style classy rustic if I had to call it something. I have been thinking of a name and artwork for months so I can get stamps made and Facebook page etc, to try to get a little more out there than just word of mouth from friends and family
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