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Everything posted by Lobo
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I package each item in a plastic bag, then use padded mailing pouches to mail them in. I purchase several sizes of the padded mailers (kraft paper with plastic bubble padding) in bulk quantities for about 30 to 40 cents each (eSupplyStore.com). First class mail usually runs between $2.50 and $3.50 depending on parcel weight. Typical weight of a packaged single holster is about 4 to 5 ounces. Up to 13 ounces can be mailed this way; over 13 ounces goes Priority Mail. Priority Mail travels with First Class, so there is no advantage in delivery times. Both services typically arrive in 2 to 5 business days anywhere in the US. I send out 24 to 36 packages each week and the average mailing cost per package is about $3.50 including packaging materials. I have had only one incident of a package lost in the mail over the past 2 years. So, I do not use delivery confirmation or insurance. Delivery confirmation costs about 80 cents, which would add about $1200 annually to my costs. Insurance costs about $1.70 for a $50 declared value, which would add about $2500 annually to my costs. Adding delivery confirmation and insurance on each parcel would have cost me about $7400 to cover that one parcel that was lost in 2 years. I prefer to just make a replacement holster and send it out. I suppose we can say that I am self-insuring deliveries (at very little expense). By the way, I include delivery to a US address on all orders and customers love that. I absolutely hate the inflated "shipping & handling" fees that so many companies like to tack on to every order, and I think a lot of customers feel the same way. Customers outside the US are charged actual postage. Most parcels sent to European Union destinations cost about $5.00 to $7.00 for air mail service, again depending on weight. So, this is what I do and why I do it.
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Another Threepersons-Style Rig
Lobo replied to Lobo's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Malcolm: Tom Threepersons was a lawman in San Antonio and El Paso, Texas during the early 20th Century. He designed a holster for his personal use, which was made by S.D. Myres Saddlery Company, and became one of the most commonly used holster designs for law enforcement and sportsmen. I also offer this style with the original carving pattern used on Threepersons' personal holster. These remain very popular. -
Another Threepersons-Style Rig
Lobo replied to Lobo's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
The calfskin that I am using is an upholstery hide, comes prefinished with a very soft and slick surface, just about waterproof and won't absorb much of anything. I bought a couple about a year ago from a friend who does custom car interiors. It runs about $3 per square foot. I use a machine for stitching. -
Received another request for a tooled Threepersons-style holster. This one is for a 6" Colt Python revolver in stainless steel. 8-9 oz. Hermann Oak lined with 3-4 oz. calfskin, basketweave tooling, matching lined belt at 1.75" width around the body tapered to 1" at the front for improved comfort, with matching cartridge slide. Working on a new color here that I am calling "russet". I am happy with the result, somewhere between oiled tan and brown. Mr. Customer is ecstatic, having had this classic revolver for over 20 years with no way of carrying it at the range and on camping trips. Another interesting week here! Classic holster made for a classic revolver, happy customer, what more can I ask for?
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I have a referal for a customer seeking a competition holster for his highly customized Glock 21. This job will require patterning to the pistol and access to the pistol for forming the holster. Details of design to be worked out between maker and customer. Because of the difficulties of transfering a firearm interstate, FFL fees, and shipping costs, it would be best for the maker to be accessible to the Cody, Wyoming area. If interested please respond via PM and I will forward your contact information to the customer. Thanks.
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Belt Making Question
Lobo replied to KB8UVM's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
I make my single-layer belts of 9-10 oz. Hermann Oak sides. Standard width is 1.5" around the body tapered to 1" at the front for better comfort and to be less conspicuous. These work very well for light to medium handguns. For heavier applications I line the body area with 4-5 oz. leather, which provides very good support for most applications. For the heaviest applications I offer the same belt with the body area lined with 7-8 oz. leather. This will carry the heaviest handguns easily. Many years ago as a cop I found that a new single-layer Sam Browne duty belt would last about a year or so in daily use, while a two-layer Sam Browne would give 3 to 5 years of good service. Cops carry much more gear on the belt than most folks do. -
Keeping Edges Vertical?
Lobo replied to Deanimator's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Now that everyone is all excited about round knives I'll add a comment or two. In my shop we use heavy-duty scissors, specifically the Kobalt 9-1/2" Multi-Purpose model sold at Lowe's for about $25.00. With only a little practice these will provide very detailed and clean cutting of up to around 10-oz. veg-tanned. 6/7 or 7/8 is pretty easy to cut for anyone with moderate hand strength. My first pair of these is about 2 years old. During that time I have touched up the edge twice with a diamond sharpening steel. The second pair has been in use for about 4 months with no sharpening needed. In perspective, we are turning out about 1500 items per year, so this is very low maintenance indeed. I can cut about 8 holster patterns per hour with these. My apprentice is doing a dozen or more per hour. She does this work while sitting in a comfortable chair, listening to the radio, enjoying a cold drink, rather than standing over a work bench and trying to keep track of all her fingers with knives. After assembly and stitching the edges are dressed with a sander, then beveled, and burnished as part of the finishing process. The results are excellent. Now, rough cutting is a different matter. After marking out several patterns on a side of leather I use an electric sheet metal shear to cut around each one, setting it aside for detail cutting with the scissors. With this method I can have a dozen patterns roughed out of the hide and ready to cut in about 30 minutes. So overall cutting time for a holster pattern is about 7 to 8 minutes, which I doubt can be beaten by much with any knife work. Keeping things simple works for me. Best regards. -
Another Look At The Threepersons-Style
Lobo replied to Lobo's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
I dye using an immersion method, submerging the holster in the dye solution. This provides very good penetration so that surface scratches and abrasion seldom penetrate beneath the dyed surface. While I refer to the results in the color shown as "cordovan brown", I do not use cordovan-color dye. Because I use neatsfoot oil as part of the finishing process, applied after dying, I have found that lighter browns are significantly darkened by the neatsfoot oil. I settled on a dye mixture that produces the color shown after oiling. I know that many others argue against neatsfoot oil, but I continue to use it to replace some of the natural moisture that is lost in the tanning process, and further diminished by wet-forming, etc. In my opinion, veg-tanned leather that has been cased and formed ends up very dry and can be somewhat brittle, sometimes resulting in cracking at stress points subjected to flexing during use. I am probably re-igniting the old arguments about neatsfoot oil, but I know what has worked for me over the past 38 years and I will continue doing that. Bag Kote is produced by Fiebing's and many suppliers carry it. Bag Kote costs about $12 or so per quart, and a quart will finish a couple of hundred items easily. It is similar to Tan Kote in the finish produced. I've used Bag Kote for years and I like the mellow sheen that it provides. The acrylic sealant that I use is a mixture that I have been producing by combining a couple of other products that, when used together, will effectively penetrate and seal both the outer surface and the flesh sides very well. As some things seem to happen, this mixture was discovered by accident, but the results have been very satisfying so I keep making the same accident happen! This can be used to produce a high gloss finish, but that is not what I wish to accomplish. Bag Kote provides the final finish that I prefer, and it also contains waxes that help to resist minor scratches and abrasion better than the acrylics, in my experience. Regular maintenance needs can be taken care of using nothing more than neutral shoe polish, which is easy for the customer to obtain and use. Best regards. -
Another Look At The Threepersons-Style
Lobo replied to Lobo's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Lining a holster is not difficult. I lay out my lining material and stretch it on a flat surface. Then I apply cement to the holster's flesh side (Fiebing's Tanners Bond works well), lay the holster out on the lining material, and press them firmly together as the cement cures (a weighted board works well). I cut the lining materal about 1/2" away from the holster edges. All edges that will not be sewn during holster assembly need to be sewn now. After stitching in the edges you can cut the lining closely to the edges. Then it is assembly and stitching as usual. On a typical holster I estimate that installing a lining adds about 15 minutes. Material cost will vary from perhaps $1 to $3, depending on what you are using. I charge an additional $18.00 for lining most holster models. -
Another Look At The Threepersons-Style
Lobo replied to Lobo's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Larry: Please don't feel bad. No harm, no foul. I enjoy seeing what other people are doing as well. -
That is a very nice job. The Ruger LCR is a natural for ankle carry, boot carry, or pocket carry since it is so light in weight. Back in my narc days I carried two S&W Model 36 Chief Special revolvers, one in each boot. I later carried one in an ankle holster as a back up gun. I think that the Model 36, at about 24 ounces loaded, is about as heavy a piece as I would want on my ankle or in my boot. The Glocks, even the mini-models, get pretty heavy with a full magazine. As a point of reference, when I bought my two Model 36 S&W's on a letterhead law enforcement purchase they were delivered to me for a total of $92 and change! Anyone care to guess how old I am? Best regards!
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Another Look At The Threepersons-Style
Lobo replied to Lobo's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
I have had good results applying the antique after the first (light) application of neatsfoot oil, then oiling again with a moderate application, followed by sealing and final finish. The carved leather will absorb neatsfoot oil very readily, much like the flesh side of leather, so moderation is called for during these applications to avoid excess. -
Another Look At The Threepersons-Style
Lobo replied to Lobo's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thanks for the kind words. The holster pattern was developed by me as a close replication of Tom Threepersons' original holster, made by S.D. Myres Saddlery c. 1920. Much interesting history there, which a Google search of "Tom Threepersons" will turn up. The holster itself is not particularly difficult to make, being of envelope-style construction with folded belt loop and welted-seam design. The artistry of the carving is another matter entirely. The carving pattern was developed, at my request and based upon a photograph of Tom's original holster, by a very talented artist who performs the carving work for me. I respect the fact that the results of his work are his property, not mine to share. If you are interested in making contact with him I will forward your contact information to him and he may respond to those he wishes to discuss mutual interests with. I consider myself to be a pretty fair craftsman, but he is an artist in leather carving deserving the highest respect. Best regards. -
I have been making the Threepersons-style holsters for many years. About 18 months ago I commissioned a very talented man to recreate the carving pattern on Tom Threepersons' original holster. Since that time orders have been steady. I have always thought that floral and Sheridan-style carving were best displayed with a natural oiled tan finish. Some customers like an antique finish. Some like the black-inked background. I recently receive an order for the carved Threepersons-style holster in cordovan brown. I was somewhat concerned that the dark finish would not properly display the carving work, but when it was finished I found it to be a real eye-catcher! Here it is. 8-oz. Hermann Oak lined with 3-oz. calfskin, dyed, lightly oiled, sealed with acrylic and final finish of Bag Kote. It carries a Smith & Wesson Model 29 .44 magnum 4".
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Bought This In Mexico For $80
Lobo replied to gregintenn's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
There are many excellent craftsmen in Mexico making some impressive pieces at very attractive prices. There are also a couple of very good tanneries, according to some sources. In the past there have also been reports of poor leather quality, apparently related to questionable tanning processes (including the use of animal urine). It appears that you have found a very nice example of craftsmanship at a bargain price. I hope that it will serve you well for many years. -
My Best Holster So Far
Lobo replied to KB8UVM's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Very nice work. Good basic design, well executed. -
Both W&C and HO produce top quality veg-tanned leather. I've been using HO exclusively for some time now and my experience is much the same as Monica's. What little bit of the hide that I can't use for holsters, belts, etc I use up in welts and other parts that are not visible in the finished product. I find that there is very little unused leather or waste.
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I prefer Hermann Oak veg-tanned. Springfield Leather stocks HO products and will sell single sides, or even cut pieces for smaller orders. Give them a call.
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Exactly! Custom work involves making a piece to the specific demands of a particular customer. I do this as a matter of course, charging for materials and shop time to produce exactly what the customer wishes to have. However, that is a very small part of my overall business. The majority of my production is standard designs with limited options produced on demand to fill orders as received. Lots of customers like to refer to this as "custom" work, but it really is nothing more than serial production with variations based upon a menu of options. This works well for me so I will keep doing it. Best regards.
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I am now making 6 basic holster designs with about 4 available options and 4 finish colors, available for about 90 different handgun models/variations. Depending on how you chase the math, this comes out to about 10,000 possible variations. I am averaging 20 to 30 holsters per week plus pouches, belts, etc, for a total production of 30 to 40 pieces weekly. Everything is made to fill existing orders. I complete 3 production runs weekly of about 10 to 12 items in each. A worksheet accompanies each piece through each function (cutting, assembly, stitching, edge finish, forming, dying, oiling, burnishing, finishing, hardware, packaging) and I try to make a point of reviewing the worksheet for each piece at every step. However, I have found that I still make mistakes. Customer orders left-hand but I cut, assemble, and stitch for right-hand. Customer requests lining but I get to forming and notice that I didn't install lining. Lots of ways for an old guy to screw up, especially when my mind goes into cruise control mode for a few hours. So, I always have a few on hand cut and ready to assemble, assembled and ready to stitch, stitched and ready to form, etc, etc, etc. I also have a few that make it all the way through the process before I catch my mistake. Once in a great while I will send out an order and the customer finds that I omitted a requested option, etc. Two or three times per year a customer takes advantage of my no-questions-asked return policy on standard production items returned in unused condition, and once in a while a customer will abuse that policy by returning an item with obvious signs of use. I once had a pre-paid order, sent to the address provided, then returned as undeliverable (moved, no forwarding address), which I kept for several months hoping to hear from the customer, but never did. I ask that payment be received prior to actual production, which is usually about 3 to 4 weeks. Occasionally I have an order produced prior to payment, and the customer has changed his mind, or bought something else since ordering. Overall, I average about 3 or 4 completed holsters per month that are not what was ordered, or not paid for, so I put those into a box and wait for another order for that combination. Occasionally I will receive an order for one that I have on hand and ready to deliver, but this happy circumstance does not happen very often. So, 2 or 3 times per year I will hold a clearance sale. Occasionally I will sell one on clearance, then receive an order for that exact thing the next week! Fortunately that unhappy circumstance doesn't happen too often. I have thought about selecting a dozen of the most popular combinations (holster design, finish color, handgun model) and producing for open-stock orders, thinking that this might boost overall sales a bit. So far I haven't made that happen, primarily because every time I think that I have identified the most common demands I will experience several weeks with no orders for those combinations. When we think about the specifics of serial production for selected models there are so many variables to consider. The 1911-style handguns are made with at least 5 common barrel/slide groups, plus different accessory rails and different slide profiles (flat-top, etc). The J-frame S&W revolvers now come with at least 4 barrel lengths, several barrel profiles, plus different cylinder lengths, etc. At least twice each week I receive e-mails asking about holsters for something new, and I have to decide whether or not to invest in another dummy gun (or buy another pistol, which I have done when demand indicates it is worthwhile to do so). Things were so much easier 30 years ago! Half-a-dozen handgun makers, each making half-a-dozen variations. Now there are dozens of makers with hundreds of variations, and new models being introduced just about every month or so. Trying to anticipate demand and consumer preferences, then producing to meet what you expect people to want, just seems to be risky at best. Perhaps that is why so many of the big-name makers have gone to the "one size fits several" approach. I can usually get all the leather, thread, dyes, hardware, etc that I need to keep up with orders. What I can't get is more hours in a day to spend at the bench. I introduced two new holster designs last year, and those took 4 to 6 months each to develop, test, and get ready for production and marketing. I have a couple of new design ideas in mind that I would like to start developing, and I have a prototype on the bench right now, knowing that it will require another 3 to 6 months of development and testing before I know whether or not it will work as expected, but with no idea at all on how it might be accepted by customers. So, these are my thoughts on this subject, for what they may be worth. Best regards.
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Stephen: Your press should be compressing the leather tightly enough around the handgun mold that you can see the major details of the piece. Using various tools, such as a bone folder and other smooth working tools, you can then work each major detail to mold it to a perfect fit. Moisture content in the leather and temperature at the time of working can have an effect on your efforts. Too much moisture, or too high a temperature, and your molding efforts will not be retained. Within a fairly narrow range of moisture content and temperature you will find that detail-boning a holster requires relatively little effort with good tools and patience. Patience is the key here. A little bit at a time, then a lot of effort at the RIGHT time, will yield positive results. It can be helpful to keep a photo or scan of the handgun on the bench while you work, helping you to identify the major details. Don't worry about the minor stuff, and don't try to carry the detail too far. It is very easy to overwork a piece, especially while it remains too wet to retain the efforts. Detail-boning requires a good amount of patience, working the leather throughout the drying process. I hope that this helps you.
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Newbies First Holster...Fire Away!
Lobo replied to ydduit's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
The vegetable tanning process removes most of the moisture from a hide. Wet-forming further dries the leather. Neatsfoot oil replenishes the moisture, providing some protection against cracking during the flexing and stretching during use. Neatsfoot oil also provides some protection from moisture infiltration from humidity and perspiration. Neatsfoot oil can easily be overdone and too much will make any leather article limp and useless. I use a single application to the smooth surfaces only right after the formed holster has dried completely, then allow the oil to settle in overnight. It will migrate through the leather and reach a balanced level of infusion. Neatsfoot oil will significantly darken any dyed leather. I recommend experimenting on scrap leather to get the result that you want before proceeding with actual production. There are others who will argue against any use of neatsfoot oil on formed holsters, and that is fine with me. I have been using this process for 38 years with excellent results, and many of my holsters remain in service after more than 30 years of use, so I will continue. -
Stiffness is generally regarded as an asset in a holster, helping to hold the holster open while the weapon is removed, making it easier to re-holster the weapon, enhancing retention qualities, etc. There are a couple of methods for enhancing the rigidity of the finished product. The more common method involves using heat during the drying process after forming the holster. With the newly formed holster still damp with water, place it into a drying cabinet with a controlled heat source to maintain a constant temperature of around 125 to 140 degrees during the drying (around 30 minutes usually works well). The second method uses isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol instead of water during the wet-forming process. The holster will dry quite quickly as the alcohol evaporates off, and the result will be similar in stiffness to the forced-drying with heat method. Either way, you will notice a considerable difference over holsters formed with water then air-dried at room temperature.
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Andy: Nice looking website, and fine looking work. You are doing very well, sir. My first suggestion is to take your telephone number off! Try to limit correspondence to e-mail as much as possible. Otherwise within a short period of time you will be constantly interrupting your work to answer the telephone. Some customers will think nothing about taking an hour of your time to ask questions, discuss options, offer suggestions, etc. Your prices are quite reasonable, but your profits won't seem worth it when you get one of those customers who is like the kid in the back seat on a trip (Are we there yet? When are we gonna get there? Are we there yet? When are we gonna get there? Are we there yet?). It is always best to be friendly and accessible to potential customers. But there are only so many hours in a day and I need to make those as productive as possible. I receive and reply to over 100 e-mails every week, most of which are questions about products, production time, etc. I receive 20 to 30 orders every week for 25 to 40 items total. I need to keep my "shop time" uninterrupted so I can keep up the pace of production. Staying off the telephone is what has worked for me. Your solution might be different, but I'm quite sure that you will need to find a solution soon. Best regards!
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I haven't tried Teflon lubricants, but I can't see any reason not to use Teflon-based dry lubricants. To ease a very snug fit I have used this procedure: 1. wrap the weapon in plastic wrap 2. smear the outside of the plastic with Johnson's Paste Wax 3. insert into the holster and leave it there for an hour or so 4. remove the weapon and plastic wrap and allow the wax to dry completely. Johnson's Paste Wax dries completely and will not harm either the leather or the weapon's finish. It will remain in the leather fibers at contact points and provide a bit of lubrication as the weapon is inserted and drawn.