Lobo

Another interesting little project to provide some diversion from routine production. My apprentice's father owns a highly customized Ruger Blackhawk in .476 Linebaugh with 4" ported barrel, unfluted 5-shot cylinder, birdshead grip in buffalo horn, Bisley-style hammer and guard, nicely engraved with the "big five" game animals. She wanted to have a holster made for him as a Fathers Day gift, so we went to work. The revolver was smuggled out of the house to our shop for patterning, then again for fitting the holster. A few of those massive .476 cartridges were also needed to form the cartridge slide. As long as we were making the holster I decided that a matching belt and cartridge slide were called for. Classic Threepersons-style holster of 8-oz. HO lined with 4-oz. calfskin, basketweave tooling. Matching belt of 10-oz. HO with matching lining, 1.75" tapered to 1" at the front, engraved Jeremiah Watt buckle. Five-round cartridge slide completes the set. So, a one-of-a-kind rig for a one-of-a-kind revolver. This one should be suitable for any nice barbeque.

Deanimator: While the typical method of hand-stitching utilizes a stitching pony to hold the work as you punch the holes with the awl and perform the stitching, there is nothing wrong with using the awl and a mallet on a flat surface (one that will not damage the awl as it punches through). This can result in good consistency when you are careful to maintain a constant angle to the process. Overall, a stitching pony is a very handy tool to have and the cost is relatively small. I have one that I seldom use anymore, and I will loan it to you if you would like to try it (send me a PM if interested). The adjustable stitching groover will be a good tool to have, allowing you to control the grooving process much better. The stitching wheel only needs to make a visible impression to mark the stitch locations for the awl. A little moisture in the leather will make this easier to do. Very little pressure is required to mark the stitch pattern, so try to work slowly and keep the wheel in the stitching groove. Leather consistency is the biggest reason for purchasing quality leather. What you are finding in the scrap bin may be fine for practice, but you will find that buying top quality leather adds little to the overall cost of production while improving both your finished product as well as your experience in performing the work. Hermann Oak veg-tanned is consistently top quality material. Try contacting Kevin at Springfield Leather (banner ad) and I'm sure that he will be happy to provide you with small quantities for your projects as needed until you are ready to start purchasing full sides or shoulders. A double shoulder is about 12 to 14 square feet and should cost about $70 to $80, but will make about 20 pocket holsters, so the per-unit cost is usually less than what a retailer will charge you for scraps. I hope that you will do well. I have a lot of family in Ohio, and I was born on our family farm that has been there since 1792.

Here is a photo of the set I refered to above. You can see the single line of stitching on the cartridge slide where the loops are terminated at the end. On a belt there will be plenty of additional room to get creative with the stitching.

Very nice job, and an apparently unique approach to the concept. Definitely "outside the box" thinking!

I agree with Andy on this one. Rivets are fine for some applications, but stitching would be just fine for securing the strap ends. On a belt a fancy stitch pattern would be easy to do and would add a nice touch to the overall appearance. I recently completed an order for a customized Ruger .476 Linebaugh consisting of a Threepersons-style holster, belt, and cartridge slide. The slide carries five of the huge .476 cartridges and was constructed with the method discussed (slots cut for each loop, strap pushed through and wrapping around each cartridge), but I sewed the strap ends and cut them flush with the outer edges of the cartridge slide. I'll try to post some photos of that rig soon.

Thank you. I see Monica's work mentioned frequently, always positive.

Perhaps a little clarification is in order. When I refer to total project time I don't mean that I started on this holster and had it completed one hour later. My usual production runs include about a dozen pieces. I cut all patterns at one time, then I assemble and sew them, then I form them, then I dye them, then I finish them. These processes usually take place on different days, and a production run typically takes place over about 3 days. I usually set up the dye station once per week for each color to be dyed, doing all like-color orders at one time. During the drying cycles I start another production run, or I will do my pouch orders, belt orders, shoulder holster harnesses or whatever else is scheduled for that week. At the end of a week I have usually completed 3 production runs. After the finishing work is completed I do all of my hardware installation and everything is ready for packaging and delivery. Combining multiple pieces at each stage can make the bench time much more productive. My average shop time per completed piece is usually around 45 minutes. Making new patterns adds time, installing holster linings adds time, thumb-breaks add time, etc. But I am usually working in the shop for about 25 hours or so per week. Add in the time required for responding to customer inquiries and orders, I usually put in a solid 40-hour week. Best regards.

There is nothing new about belt-clip IWB holsters. These have been around for at least 50 years in various configurations. I don't receive many inquiries for these anymore, but occasionally a customer will make a request and give me something different to work on. Here is one recently finished for a customer who wanted to carry a S&W J-frame Centennial in the appendix position. Neutral cant with belt clip offset to reduce bulk at the cylinder area. Holster body and mouth band/clip retainer of 6-7 oz. Hermann Oak, 1.5" steel belt clip. Construction: pattern and cut holster body and band, assemble and stitch band to holster body, install and rivet clip, stitch rear seam, stitch lower seam. Clip installation does not allow for stitching completely around the revolver profile, so the rear seam secures trigger guard area and the lower seam secures the barrel/frame/yoke area. Wet-forming and boning completes the fitting process. Finish is neatsfoot oil followed by Bag Kote, then acrylic sealant inside and out. Worked into the schedule with other orders, total production time was about an hour. Once again, a little something to keep life interesting in the shop.

I have been very gratified by a continuing high demand for revolver holsters, and I make several holster models. Here are a few: Model 5-T strong-side belt holster. Model 5-T configured as cross-draw. Classic Threepersons-style, hand carved to the original pattern. Enhanced Pancake model. Enhanced Avenger model.

With light lining leathers I've found that the lining can be stretched as you are cementing it into place. The limits wrinkling during the forming process. Installing a lining after the holster is formed would be just about impossible to do.

Ditto. Form follows function in a good design. When the result is also visually appealing so much the better.

Personally, I cannot tolerate IWB carry for any length of time. Customers continue to order IWB holsters so I continue to make them. In this case the customer's requirements were for a rather extreme carry angle which, especially with shorter handguns, requires that much of the handgun be directly under the belt. With the revolver this requires encasing the entire hammer/rear sight/recoil shield areas. With the semi-auto this requires encasing the entire slide/hammer/rear sight areas. The heavy reinforcement was utilized to prevent belt pressure from collapsing the holster around the top, which could prevent drawing the weapon. The result is, in my opinion, a rather bulky package to stuff inside the waistband. But the customer is happy with them and that is the primary goal. In order to make a business in holster making we need to provide what the customer envisions and wants. As long as what the customer requests does not involve inherent safety problems I will try to accomodate. Special orders and custom work amount to only a small percentage of my business, but these jobs do provide a nice break in the routine. The profit on a custom job can actually be less than for a similar amount of time spent on general production work, but the results can also be personally rewarding. Every special order also provides additional learning experiences, and occasional brainstorms that can be applied to other projects. Best regards.

Perhaps I was not as clear as I might have been. Two layers of 8/9 oz. is extremely heavy. I personally prefer to line the 9/10 oz. with 4/5 oz. Attached are photos of a belt I recently completed for my own use, 1.5" width around the body, tapered to 1" at the buckle and tongue areas, with a little fancy stitching. Supports my Kimber Classic TLE easily and comfortably.

I use #6-32 machine screws and 3-prong T-nuts with 1/4" shafts. This size of T-nut works well when mounting to two layers of 8-oz. leather. The #6-32 machine screws will seat nicely inside the snap stud. Screw length can be selected based upon total thickness of the parts to be joined (2 layers of 8 oz. equals about 1/4", 3 layers equals about 3/8"). Attached photos show the screw securing a snap stud and the T-nut seated on the back side. This is a fairly simple application. Other methods can be used for different purposes. For small quantities any well-stocked hardware store should be able to provide what you need. For quantity purchases you can try Bolt Depot for better prices and quick deliveries, in my experience.

I've used Fiebing's spirit-based dyes for years. I dye everything by immersing in the dye, so interiors receive a thorough saturation. Dying is followed by finishing, including acrylic sealants inside and out. I've never received any reports of dye transfering onto a handgun.

Some time last year I modified my patterns for the two holster models that use belt loop attachments. I'm now using loops that are mounted with T-nuts and screws which allows the loops to be interchangable. I make the loops to the size specified by the customer, and I also offer additional loop sets in different sizes. Some customers also order additional loop sets in different colors. This feature permits one holster to be used with several belts of different widths. As Dwight has stated, I cut straps using a strap cutter, cut to length required, punch and finish. I like to make up dozens at a time and have them ready to use rather than to make up each set during holster production. This saves time and improves consistency.

Weavers has been a good supplier for many items, but I have had problems with belt blanks from that source. Inconsistent gauging of the leather, unknown tanneries, dyes taken differently, and other problems. I now order only Hermann Oak veg-tanned leather for everything. For belts I prefer to have 9-10 oz. sides which, after the bellies are chopped off for other uses, will yield about 15 to 18 belt blanks at 60" more or less. The bellies are usually usable for straps and other smaller items, depending on the fleshy sides. I've even gotten a few good holster patterns out of those that haven't displayed ugly surfaces or flesh sides. A simple strap cutter (draw gauge for those of you who prefer that term) will suffice for cutting belt blanks quickly and easily. With a good blade installed it takes only a minute or two to cut your belt blank. I offer these as single-layer 9-10 oz., suitable for most uses; lined with 4-oz. leather for heavier uses; and as 2-layer lined with 7-8 oz. for heaviest applications. I cut my lining leathers a bit oversized, cement the main strap and lining, then trim and work the edges to a finished dimension. Heavier linings benefit from beveling prior to assembly, with a nice transition on the sewn edges. Today was a "belt day" at my shop, with a half-dozen belts of various configurations completed along with 6 holsters and pouches. I have a nice 8-foot workbench that allows belt strap cutting, assembly, cementing, etc to be done very quickly. After cementing the 2-layer belts can be run over the belt sander, then sewn up and finished. I even had time to make happy hour at my club (less than two blocks from the shop, lucky me!). I recommend ordering appropriate sides or double shoulders and cutting your own straps. You can control the finished product much better than any supplier is likely to do for you and the finished product will be much better. Best regards.

I regularly make half-a-dozen holster models with various options available to suit customer preferences. This is usually interesting enough and keeps me busy, but occasionally I like to work on something unique. Two customers recently provided some opportunities. First was a retired US Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer who requested holsters for his Colt Commander and his S&W K-frame 2.5" with full carving in the Sheridan style and incorporating the image of his CPO collar insignia. I consulted with my carver (a very talented artist) who advised that the details of the collar device would not lend themselves to hand carving, so he suggested using a laser-carved image combined with the Sheridan carving. The results are shown in the photos. I am now exploring ideas for the use of laser-engraving for military and law enforcement images (unit crests & patches, badges, etc). The possibilities are limited only by the need for a clear and concise image to be scanned into the laser's computer control. Second was a lady requiring holsters for her Springfield Armory 3" 1911 and S&W 686-P 3". Both holsters needed to provide IWB carry with cant adjustable from approx. 25 degrees to approx. 45 degrees for carry well behind the strong-side hip. Such carry angles, especially with shorter handguns, require that the handgun rides quite low. My concerns were that the revolver hammer/cylinder/recoil shield areas would be positioned so that belt pressure would prevent a smooth draw, that the hammer/rear sight might snag in the clothing during the draw; and that the semi-auto pistol would encounter similar obstacles. My approach was to utilize envelope-style basic construction, 7/8 oz. leather for the holster bodies, and 8/9 oz. leather for an extended reinforced holster mouth. This provides an extended tunnel that is well reinforced, allowing the belt to pass over the bulk of the handgun without crushing down the holster in the area that needs to remain open for a smooth draw. This results in some added bulk to the package, but it is well contained within the waistband. The forward belt attachment points are located high on the reinforced holster mouth using T-nuts mounted through the reinforcement but not into the holster interior. The rear belt attachment points (two on each holster) are located to adjust cant to the required angles, and the loop can be moved from one point to the other by removing a #6-32 screw securing the snap stud to the T-nut. The unused T-nut point is trimmed out with a screw and trim washer. On both IWB holsters about the only part of the pistol extending outside of the holster are the grip-frames, and those are fully exposed for unobstructed grip during the draw. So, a little added interest to the work over the past few weeks.

Without an actual measurement it is very difficult to assure a proper fit. And, as TwinOaks has pointed out, IWB carry will usually require an increase in both trouser and belt size. I wear size 34 trousers, but my belts measure 36.5" from tip of buckle to tongue hole in use. This closely matches the results of my customers actual measurements, with 2 to 3 inches added to trouser size being the norm. For IWB carry I recommend adding 2 inches to belt length, and this seems to work well for most folks. For carrying a holstered handgun I always recommend a sturdy belt. Belts of lightweight construction, and narrow belts in general, require tightening to an uncomfortable degree in efforts to stabilize the weight of a holstered handgun. For light to medium weight handguns I recommend 9-10 oz. leather belts. For medium to heavy weight handguns I recommend belts (usually lined) of about 12-14 oz. combined weight. For heaviest applications I recommend combined weight of about 14-16 oz. These combinations will support the weight and anchor the holstered handgun without undue tightening. The customer's usual wardrobe may raise another issue. Many trousers have belt loops that will not accept belts over about 1.25" width. Most casual trousers will accept 1.5" belt width. Jeans will usually accept 1.75" belt width. This will vary, but the point is that not everyone's wardrobe will be the same due to manufacturing variations. During my years working in plain clothes assignments I always did a number of things when buying new suits: 1. the material cut off from trousers while sewing cuffs to length can be saved and used to make belt loops of appropriate size for the belts to be used; 2. belt loops can be sewn on at locations that will not interfere with holster placement; 3. I always had a layer of light canvas sewn into suit coats around the waist to minimize "printing" of the holstered handgun. Interestingly, such alterations made the clothing a tax-deductible business expense while also making the clothing much more usable for the intended purpose. Probably more information than justken asked for, but this summarizes my thoughts on gun belts. The best belt in the world won't be used if it won't fit the belt loops. The best holster in the world won't be used if it isn't comfortable. Everything must work together to achieve the desired goals. Best regards.

I don't carry homeowners' insurance because I look forward to my house burning down. I don't carry car insurance because I want to be in an accident. I don't carry a handgun because I want to be in a gunfight. I just find that reasonable levels of insurance are better to have and not need than to need and not have. As a retired law enforcement officer I have experienced being a defendant in several lawsuits, having those civil claims recorded on my credit history, trying to get a mortgage or auto loan with a multi-million dollar claim hanging over my head, and relying upon legal counsel retained by others to represent those interests while also purporting to represent my interests. I have found myself bouncing around to lawyers' offices for depositions, driving halfway across the state to sit in the hallway of a courthouse all day and be sent home without testifying, all in response to a hand-written pro se lawsuit filed by a convict serving time and looking for something to entertain himself with. The last BS lawsuit that I had to deal with kept me fairly busy for 4 years after my retirement! Here is the long and short of it: Anyone can file a lawsuit, and they don't have to prove a damned thing to do it. If you don't respond, if you don't cross all the T's and dot all the I's in a timely fashion, they will get a judgement against you. Your neighbor's wife can sue you for divorce, despite the fact that you have never been married to her, and if you fail to respond and defend the claim, you neighbor's wife can get your life savings, your retirement accounts, custody of your children, and your dog, along with judgements for ongoing payments for the rest of your life. Protect yourself. Insurance is a very inexpensive way to provide yourself with legal representation in the event of a liability claim. My business is incorporated under the laws of my state. I carry a business liability insurance policy (which costs much less than you might imagine), and I don't accept orders for items that show any signs of being unsafe under any conditions. I will continue to carry homeowners' insurance, car insurance, business insurance, and a good handgun every day. Your methods may vary.

Ade: Your workmanship clearly shows that you have mastered the craft. I can only wish that your nation will reconsider its course of restricting the liberties of the many in favor of those few who will abuse those liberties. Best regards.

I make belts to customer specifications, of course, so a variety of widths and buckle styles can be needed. Most of my special order belts have been for use with the customer's buckles so I just make to specified width, etc. My standard belt design is 1.5" width around the body tapered to 1" at the front, which I have found to improve comfort. So, I provide 1" buckles with those. I have been using the #5 and #Z5 buckles from Weaver's, solid brass and chrome-over-brass, and these do a good job. Prices are very reasonable, and quantity purchases offer even better economy. Weaver's also stocks the Jeremiah Watt "Horseshoe" brand of harness buckles in stainless steel, cast with an engraved pattern in either plain or with black enamel accents. These buckles are very heavy duty and lie nice and flat with even the thickest belts. These provide a great custom look for a very reasonable price. Also, being stainless steel, these will not tarnish and there are no issues with plating wearing through. Any scratches or dings can be fixed with a quick turn at the buffing wheel. I just placed another buckle order with Weaver's a few days ago. As usual, their customer service reps provide great service and deliveries are always fast. You must have an account to order from Weaver's, and a business license is required.

Dwight: The new shop is working out well, thanks. The additional space is great to have. I still have a little work to do as time permits, I'll be adding another work station for air-brush dying, more shelves, and a drying cabinet. These will permit me to change my production procedure a bit for faster turnaround time. New apprentice started part-time on Monday. She has been doing some cutting and assembly work so far and really seems to enjoy it, so I will probably have her doing more as time goes by. Best regards.

Dwight: When I experimented with this process (many years ago) I put about a cup of neatsfoot oil into a saucepan and heated it gently until a lump of beeswax would melt into it. Then I applied the mixture while still warm and fluid using a cloth to rub it into the leather. Finally, I buffed the surface with a soft cloth. The result was a soft velvety finish with a waxy feel. My impression was that the neatsfoot oil penetrated the fibers while the beeswax filled the pores and remained on the exterior. My understanding of this is that the process was used by saddlemakers years ago, prior to the availability of more modern applications that require less time and effort to achieve equal or better results. This method of finishing might have an appeal for certain uses, such as reproductions of vintage items, but I think that the products now available are superior in performance and easier to use.

If I remember correctly, that locking device was a patented design. About the only possibility will be contacting Bianchi International to see if (1) they might have some old stock on hand, and (2) whether or not they would send one to you. Another idea is to watch eBay for another holster of this type that you might be able to scavenge for the part needed. I've done repairs on a number of Bianchi products through the years, but I haven't worked on that particular model. Good luck.