Lobo

When producing a volume of holsters there is really no substitute for good punches in the sizes and shapes required. For the occasional project the cost of the punches can be a significant issue. As JeffGC has described, a good result can be had using hole punches at each end and a wood chisel to finish the slot cuts. I used that method for many years. I cut my slots after the holster panels have been stitched together. In my production process the next step after sewing is to dress all edges, which I do on a belt sander and drum sander. I have found that dampening the leather prior to dressing the edges eliminates leather dust in the air, so I dunk the sewn holsters into water prior to that step. Right after dressing the edges I cut the slots, and the damp leather cuts much more easily than when dry. The next step is beveling the edges, which is also done more easily and cleanly while the leather is damp. The following step is forming the holster, which also requires moisture in the leather.

I have been doing basketweave tooling for about 35 years, off and on as demand comes and goes. To perform basketweave tooling requires exactly two tools; the basketweave stamp, and a border stamp. The process involves some extensive practice on scrap pieces, after which all that is required is a close attention to detail, a good eye, and a little bit of patience. I can do a common holster pattern in about 10 minutes. Belts take a little more time, perhaps 15 or 20 minutes, but the extended straight lines of a belt make it much easier to perform the work (while also providing many more opportunities for mistakes). Pre-embossed belt blanks suffer from a number of problems, not the least of which is the lack of a completed pattern and border at each end. This readily identifies the finished product as "machine-produced" as opposed to any sort of hand work. It is possible that someone is providing embossed blanks in 2.25" duty belt width, but I don't know who it might be. If you intend to line your belts, or produce two-layer belts, you should be aware that the tooling process always results in some "growth" of the tooled area, as the impressions will cause the leather to expand at each tooling point. So, while you may start with a belt blank of 2.25" width and a specific length, by the time the tooling is completed both the width and the length will be changed measurably. Tooling must be done prior to assembly of lined or two-layer belts, and the process can be very frustrating for those who have no experience with this. So, getting into the business of basketweave-tooled gear requires little in the way of cash investment, actually producing basketweave-tooled gear requires more than a little bit of practice and experience to achieve an acceptable result. Unless you are prepared to expend a fair amount of time and effort to master the skills involved, I would suggest that you consider contracting such work out to a craftsman who has already put in the time and effort to be able to produce the desired results. Best regards.

I am flattered that you have found my welted-seam application to the Avenger-style worthy of your efforts. Your adaptation of the slide shield is very nicely done. That option has been requested for this style and I will have to come up with something along the same lines to meet customer requirements. Attached are photos of one of my Enhanced Avenger-style holsters that I recently shipped for the Sig P6, with holster mouth reinforcement band, in cordovan brown finish. Not trying to hijack your thread here, just adding something for comparison. Best regards.

Jeff: I will be very interested in seeing your IWB design for a hammerless S&W revolver with a thumb-break retention. These revolvers do not permit the use of traditional thumb-break designs, so yours will draw a lot of attention if it provides positive retention. As for the common means of reinforcing the thumb-break, I use 24-gauge sheet metal. Others use Kydex. And there are pre-fabricated reinforcement tabs offered by a couple of sources. Looking forward to your completed project.

Exceptionally nice workmanship.

Exceptionally nice work!

Very interesting question. It has been my observation that there are several layers within the "professional" holster-making community. There are the true artists, working in leather as a medium. The goal is perfection in every detail. There are many customers who spend significant sums to commission custom-made one-of-a-kind items, and are well-served by these makers. There are craftsmen, those making good quality products that will serve the customers' needs very well. Most in this category work in a market niche, specializing in a range of products for specific uses. Some offer specialty work such as tooling, exotic leathers, and other embellishments to satisfy the upscale customers' requirements. Some provide designs and features not generally available. Others simply provide more utilitarian products. There are mass production makers, producing larger volume to satisfy more general needs. Frequently, these makers market their products through retail stores and catalog sales companies. Quality may vary between different makers, with the primary emphasis being on consistency in production for the broader market. There are customers for all of these makers. Law enforcement agencies and security companies rely upon the mass producers. Individual officers and agents purchase products for personal use. Approximately 90 million US citizens own some 300 million firearms, including at least 80 million handguns. 38 states have adopted "shall issue" concealed carry permit laws, and many millions of people are now carrying a defensive sidearm regularly. I place myself in the "craftsmen" category. I produce several styles, and offer a few options within each style so that the customer may have a holster that more closely meets their personal needs, and I have a few personal innovations in design and construction. I also make holsters for a number of older handguns that, while still in common use, have been dropped by the mass producers due to lesser demand. The first things that I notice in any holster is the basic design. What does it offer for comfort, accessibility, security/safety, and concealability? Next, I notice materials. Are the leathers used appropriate for the intended use? Stitching and hardware? How will this holster stand up to long-term use? Next, quality of construction and fit to the handgun. Finally, the finish (interior and exterior). Interesting question. Interesting business.

I have always used 24-gauge sheet metal, cut to shape, then sewn between two layers of leather. I use a drill press to make the hole for snap attachment. This process adds a little time to production. Now that I see the pre-fabricated steel tabs at 50 cents apiece, I may just re-think this process!

For years I used simple hardwood dowels, and wooden thread spools, chucked into the drill press. More recently I have discovered 2" diameter hard felt polishing wheels. When turning at about 1700 rpm the hard felt wheels make short work of edge burnishing. I usually burnish in two stages. First, while the leather is still damp from wet-forming I use a dry felt wheel to slick the edge. Second, after the item has been finished I apply wax (50/50 mix of parafin and beeswax) to the edges, then burnish again to a bright finish. The 2" felt polishing wheels cost about $1.50 each retail and each one will do a couple of hundred holsters, pouches, belts, etc before becoming so worn that they need to be replaced.

PM responded to. Here are a few photos to illustrate a simple method of attaching strap loops for the IWB style holster. 1. Completed loop installation. 2. #6-32 X 1/4" machine screw through opening in snap stud. 3. T-nut mounted through back side of holster. 4. Holster body of 2 layers 8-oz leather, strap of 8-oz. leather. As can be seen, the T-nut with 1/4" post length penetrates trough the 2-layer holster body, the 1/4" screw penetrates through the leather strap and connects solidly with the T-nut. Hope this helps.

I'm not familiar with the product in question. To maximize stiffness of a veg-tan holster (or pouch, or other items) there are two useful techniques: 1. After forming with water, apply heat during the drying process. Temperatures of around 125 to 130 degrees over a period of 20 to 30 minutes will usually result in significantly stiffer results. Controlled temperature is required, as too much heat will damage the leather. A convection oven can be put to use, but use a good thermometer to control temperatures. For the occasional job a common hair dryer will suffice. 2. Use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol instead of water for your wet-forming. The alcohol will evaporate off completely in 2 or 3 hours, and the result is usually noticably greater stiffness. I have used both methods, and I have used alcohol-forming followed by moderate heating (we don't want to ignite the alcohol). The results are impressive.

Thank you, 303brit. By coincidence, just yesterday I completed one for the Glock 19 with neutral cant. I have added the "Enhanced Avenger" and "Enhanced Pancake" models to my product line, and interest has been very good. These two new models now account for 30% of orders since the first of this year. Attached photos show the Enhanced Avenger with mouth reinforcement for the Colt Commander and Enhanced Pancake for the 1911, recently shipped out.

With hand-stitching you should easily get enough thread tension to make it difficult to see any difference.

Very nice work. Exceptionally nice boning work. I like the pre-formed belt slot and tunnel loop. Stitching looks great. Personally, I don't use the stitching groover on the back side. It is practically impossible to be 100% on that anyway. You should be proud of that one!

If you would like to have a few T-nuts and machine screws, please let me know. I purchase these in bulk quantities and will be happy to send a few sets to you for experimentation. Best regards.

Very nice work indeed! Beautiful carving, and the use of multiple dyes really enhances the depth and detail. You are an artist, sir!

For 6/7 oz. leather you can probably get away with 1/4" posts on your snaps. I use ligne 24 snaps with 5/16" posts, as the additional post length is handy on the heavier applications and poses no problems on the lighter applications. You mention a mouth reinforcement band, so I assume your IWB design is envelope-style construction. If so, you can mount the snap studs (male side) in the reinforcement band prior to stitching in place, then mount the caps (female side) on the extended strap forming the belt loop. You may also wish to use interchangeable belt loops. These can be made separately and mounted using a 6-32 X 1/4" T-nut in the holster body at the point of loop attachment, accepting a #6-32 machine screw (1/4" length usually works for applications totalling 2 layers of leather; 3/8" length if there will be 3 layers total at the attachment point) through the male snap piece into the T-nut. Sounds difficult, but it really isn't. Small quantities of T-nuts and machine screws are usually available at better hardware stores. Once you find a combination that works for your needs, bulk ordering will reduce unit cost substantially (this applies only if you are a volume producer, rather than a hobbyist working on an occasional project). Hope this helps you.

Here is what has worked well for me. I have a web-site which basically functions as a catalog, displaying and describing items and options with prices. Customers can quickly tell if something that I make is suitable for their purposes, then contact me via the "contact" page, and I get an e-mail. I can address any questions or concerns, and estimate production time. They may respond with an order if they wish to. This helps me avoid spending hours every day responding to endless questions, sending photos, etc. Customers who respond are already interested in buying a specific item or items. I accept payments by mail, and also through PayPal (secure web-site permitting credit card payments). I was apprehensive about a web-site at first, worried that it could result in more orders than I could produce in a timely manner. By providing each potential customer with an estimated delivery date prior to ordering, that problem is avoided. By the way, I used Yahoo for my web-site. Easy to use site building tools, and very reasonable web-hosting costs. My site is now receiving about 100 hits per week, and I receive about 40 new inquiries per week. I am producing about 30 to 35 items per week to fill about 25 orders per week. I offer free delivery to any US address, a one-year warranty on materials and workmanship, and any standard production (not custom) item may be returned in unused condition for refund. Buying anything on-line can make many people uneasy, so these features help set the customer's mind at ease. Good luck.

First problem (if it is a problem) is keeping up with production. I have a steady stream of new orders coming in, and I try to maintain the quickest possible turnaround time. Occasional spurts in orders can make it difficult to keep up. Second problem is finding time to work on new product development projects. I always have an idea in my head that I want to test. This usually means working evenings and weekends. I have been at the point of full-time for about a year now. The past year has brought about 30% overall increase in sales. If that happens again this year I will have another problem: hiring and training an apprentice to help with production. Having been an employer in the past, I know just how difficult and time-consuming it can be to find, supervise, and retain decent help. So, all of my problems are basically good ones to have in business.

Exceptionally nice workmanship! Thank you for posting.

I use T-nuts and screws to mount #24 snap studs on 2 and 3 layers of 8-oz. leather. #6-32 panhead screws in 1/4" or 3/8" length work well; 1/4" height T-nuts. Once you determine what sizes you need for your applications bulk purchasing will reduce unit cost substantially.

You are correct, sir. I missed the slide shield on my first observation of the photos. My apologies for having misspoken.

Looking at your holster design, I notice that the grips are partially covered by the holster. The CT Laser Grip places the laser module on the right side grip panel at the upper right (just beneath the slide), so you will need to accomodate that when fitting your holster. The Crimson Trace website has photos of their laser grips on a 1911-style pistol that will help you plan that aspect of the job. Your pancake design (with adjustment for overall pistol length) should otherwise accomodate the 3" guns when formed on your CBOB. You won't be able to complete the detailed boning at the forward end of the slide, as you have on your CBOB holster. Dealing with the laser module will be the only real obstacle to overcome. Dickf: A quick look at the holster design illustrated shows that the thumb safety area of the pistol is well clear of the leather. There will be no contact involved.

Yes, the suede is not affected by the wet-forming process.

Weight selected should reflect the handgun being fitted for the holster. For smaller and lighter handguns, 6-7 oz. works very well for pancake-style. For medium size and weight handguns, 7-8 oz. works very well. 8-10 oz. leather will support the heaviest handguns easily in most applications. Almost all of my regular production holsters, including pancakes, are made with 8-oz. veg-tan. Hope this helps you.