JeannieH
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Everything posted by JeannieH
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Ok thank you. That looks great! I really have my mind set in metal or leather logos though. I will keep hunting! Thanks again for replying!
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Opinions On Fratelli Skiving Machine
JeannieH replied to simontuntelder's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Hi. I looked at your site but the fav skiver doesn't have the price listed. How much is it? -
My tips for a "machine" look with Saddle Stitch
JeannieH replied to DonorLeather's topic in Sewing Leather
I'm new to leatherworking...I'm currently learning to handstitch. I normally use my cylinder bed for making my bags. However, I decided to purchase reverse pricking irons to use when topstitching. By hand that is. I prefer the look of the "machine look saddle stitch" over the slanted. I may machine stitch a part that will be seen...but also need to hand stitch a part on the same bag. I rather they match. So this is my reasons for doing a machine look stitch. So thank you Donorleather for this post. There are so many ways to do things...the saddle stitch has its place...and a machine look saddle stitch does as well! -
Hi. Does anyone know where I can buy 3mm black plastic hollow core piping in the USA? I can only find it on eBay from AU. Thanks!
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Hi everyone! i am a new leather worker and bag maker...I have been running into a problem with how my seams look on the outside of the bag. I am very much a perfectionist and after I make a bag...I pinch the seams on the outside..and if I see some thread or holes..I feel the bag isn't up to the standard I want. I have only made one leather bag. I have been practicing making bags with cork fabric..(I also have the same problem with the seams with this material) which in no way helped me as far as sewing leather bags lol. How do you achieve professional seams? Do you skive or not skive? Skive, but not glue seam completely flat? Skive a lot off..or not alot off...glue down but not completely flat? Help!? lol Currently I hand skive the leather seam..I use a leather needle size 16 or 18...I adjust my top tension until the top and bottom thread don't show the others thread on the top of bottom ( hope that made sense)..I am sewing with 3 to 4 ounce chrome tanned leather.
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Ok that may be the problem. I will try with leather. I may have to do it very slowly with the cork fabric to be able to use it with the attachment. Cork fabric is cool. I haven't made a leather bag yet...weird because I started learning how to make bags and got the walking foot machine for the sole purpose of making leather bags lol. I guess I didn't anticipate all the tools and money I would need. So bit by bit I am getting the basics and hopefully I will have a leather bag to show soon...I will say it has been frustrating. My biggest problem is knowing if I should skive the seams or not skive the seams of a bag to get a seam where the thread doesn't show when the seams are glued and pressed down....then pinched together on the outside (yep I do that and if I see thread I consider it not high qulity enough and I try again lol... I am a perfectionist so its driving me crazy.
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Hi! Does anyone know a good source for embossed metal hand bag logos that doesn't have a high minimum order quantity?
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Thanks Uwe. I ordered a knurled binder foot set that looks like your first picture. Hopefully I will get everything figured out. My trial runs didn't go so well (haven't received the binder feet yet) with using my cork fabric. I will have to get maybe the right presser foot pressure set or something. The cork binding keep moving out of place. I'm sure it's a user error and I will get the hang of it. Thanks for all you guys input and advice as always!!
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hi. I bought a typical binder attachment and it seems to be just right..but the seller told me I didn't need a binder foot set. I think I do. Will just cutting off a regular inner foot close to the hole work?
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No I'm using a cutting board on top of a granite slab. I just keep stropping as it fills. I guess this chrome tan I'm using is gonna dull the knife.
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I have been using Lampo from botanitrim.com. They aren't as expensive as riri. Also, there is a USA supplier ..ucan zippers. They have a 25 yard minimum or 100 piece minimum. Very reasonable pricing. I will be buying only from them once I can afford to buy in bulk. They sent me a sample and I liked it better than riri and lampo. My contact is Ross Tallguy his email is tgtrims@ gmail.com #310-428-8138. If you contact him please tell him Jeannie Henderson referred you!
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Hi! What kind of inner presser foot for a walking machine lets you sew very close to the edge? Do I have to make one from a regular foot attachment? Thanks!
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I found a new site that I am loving! It's districtleathersupply.com. They have some Japanese brass hardware. If you buy from there, put in a note saying Jaicani sent you!!
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I do sew with a 3/8 seam. Forgive me but I don't understand how to only glue the 1/8 to 3/16. Are you saying...to fold over about that much toward the seam and glue that down? So the cut edge folds over on either side about 1/8 to 3/16? I'm so glad you answered this for me because I knew my seams weren't looking right!
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Also, should I open and glue down the side seams or leave them unskived and not glued down? I'm using 3.5 ounce chrome tanned upholstery fabric. Brian, would Bontex paper. E a good reinforcement? It's the strong paper used for like stiffening bags and using inside straps. If not...I would a thin leather be better?
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Yes the rivet goes through the outside all the way to the lining. The order the bag needs to be sewn in leaves the loop holder needing to be secured last. Rocky Aussie, can you explain the reinforcing strip for me? Do you mean putting something in between the outside and lining? I've already made this bag from cork. This is my first time making a leather bag. The strap needed to be 3/4 to fit in that side opening. At least that's how I made the pattern. With the cork bag, I hand stitched the loop strap where the loop keeper is. But, putting a lot of things in the bag like water bottle..tablet, the stitches weren't strong enough and that undid. So, it needs that rivet since some women will want to put a lot of things in it since it's a big bag. Thanks for the advice . Rocky Aussie if you could give me a little more info on what you were talking about that would be awesome!
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Thank you both for the responses. Matt s, Whatever river I use needs to have a post long enough to go through the leather. Do those types of rivets come with longer post? Buzzardbait I have been looking for an adjustable Osborne edge creaser but can't find one I can afford! I missed out on one on eBay and haven't been able to find a decent price since! I will keep looking.
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Hi. I am making a bag and bed to put a rivet on the side just like this bag in the picture. My brain is telling me that putting a hole through the seam will make the thread break. But dooney and Bourke does it ...so there must be a way to do this without breaking the thread and risking a weak seam that will come apart. Anyone has any advice on doing this? Also what tools makes those grooves like the one on the loop?
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Matt, would that motion of left to right work with the nobuyoshi knife? It only has one angled side...
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I'm using the stropping block from knives plus. I have watched the video on fixing Japanese skiving knives and Lisa sorrels video a while back. I'm skiving 3.5 ounce chrome tanned leather with a soft hand. When I strip, should there be any pressure applied to blade or just lightly pass it over the strop?
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Yintx, that first video is what made me buy the knife. His review made me feel it was a good one to buy. I have gotten this knife very sharp. Not staying sharp is a downer but I will just keep sharpening as I use it I guess. I will invest in another knife at some point. Any recommendations? Also, the second knife is a double sided Japanese knife I bought from Lisa sorrell. She is a shoe maker. I have the same problem...super sharp then super dull.
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So Jerseyfirefighter, do I need to try sharpening at a 15 degree angle? I will have to find a tool to make sure I'm holding it at the right angle. I've just been laying the angle side down on the part where it is flat.
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Art, I'm not sure I am getting what you are telling me. Lol. I don't know what the angle is on this knife..it's a Nobuyoshi I ordered from leathercrafttools. The 36mm one. Gigi, yes I have read that the chrome tanned leather dulls the knife faster. I don't have a skiving machine so this is my only option right now unfortunately.
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Not sure if my message went through so I'm doing it again. Thanks for the video. I've watched so many it ridiculous! I really take my time when sharpening and make sure the angled side is flat against the stone . I'm thinking the stropping is where the problem is maybe. The strop already has the compound on it...you can recondition it with a little olive oil. It is one sided though. I put the flat side of the angled side on it and pull back...then put the flat side flat and pull back...I've tried putting a slight angle on the flat side. Doing that made it very sharp...but omggggg it dulls very fast lol! Ive tried putting barely any pressure on the knife when stropping...tried putting a little more pressure...still dulls fast after getting it sharp. I had it cutting like butter and was so happy...then bam...dull when I finished that one little piece of leather!
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Ok. I'm not cutting with the blade straight up and down...I'm skiving...so I mainly lay the flat side of the knife on the leather with the angle side up. It doesn't appear that the blade is touching the granite or glass at all. It I will try skiving on my mat instead and see what happens. Thanks!