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Stetson912

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Everything posted by Stetson912

  1. To that's interesting. I'm not sure if you could stitch it to the holster exactly. I would think the molding and going of it would prevent the sheath from keeping it's form to hold the knife. I was thinking, what about using one directional snaps and snapping it onto the holster? You would then have a sheath that could be removed if needed. You could also design a strap style system for mounting the sheath. Kind of like a drop loop holster except the sheath mounts to the loop.
  2. Thanks Danne. I made the shape as an adjustment to another failed design and ended up liking it better
  3. That should say nice stitching not no ice stitching haha. Rocky, that would explain why I don't know what it is haha.
  4. No ice stitching! I have to ask what this carving is, I can't seem to figure it out.
  5. Thanks mutt. Means I'm getting better lol.
  6. Thanks mikesc. I appreciate that. Wallets are my nemesis but I'm starting to figure them out.
  7. Thanks yintx, It is nice and soft. Great for bags. But it's a good thickness and was scrap so I thought I'd try it. I did split the interior piece to 2/3 oz and that wasn't easy. And I think with cards loaded in it it'll have enough rigidity to it.
  8. Thanks. Edges are a little rough in a couple spots but better still. I did the hidepounder method and used resolene to finish them and give them a shine. That's how this color Essex is. The flesh has that nice blue. The grain looks black but in certain light it is blue.
  9. Here is another 4 slot wallet. It's the same as the last one I made except I did the edges a bit better and solid down the pocket leather to 2/3oz. The outside is 4/5 horween Essex in parisian blue from nstarleather. The pockets are black veg tan scrap I had from frog jelly. Hand stitched with 0.6 black tiger thread at 8spi I think. I think I finally got the thickness right. Let me know what you think! Thanks
  10. After looking closer I don't think the trim around the inlays was laced was it? How did you do that! Again, remarkable work.
  11. @Dwight that sounds like a fantastic idea! I kinda wanna just make a belt that way now haha.
  12. Very nice! Where might one find info on the lacing applique and different stitching you did?
  13. @CaptQuirk, how thick of leather is the belt? And did you get a measurement around where he will wear the belt at all? I recommend making a prototype out of cardboard or craft foam the same thickness of the leather. I'll say what I do with a gunbelt. I get a measurement just above the hips around the clothes that will be worn where the belt will ride not too tight but not too loose. For example I'll say 40". That means that from the buckle to the center hole on the billet I want to be 40" Next I figure out how much to add to the billet. I like 1" spacing. For a 5 hole belt I add 2" from center for holes and 3" more for extra to pull the billet through the buckle. 4" is ok too, I just prefer 3". All in all I'm adding 5" to the overall length of the belt. But, now we have to accommodate for the leather thickness. This means math.for example again, I'll say it's 8 oz leather. That is .125" thick. The formula you want is (measurement)+pi(leather thickness) 40"+pi(.125)= about 40.4" about 40 and 7/16". All in all I'd make my belt about 45 1/2" long rounding up that 1/16". I know that 7/16 sounds nominal but I've been there where I'd really like to have it there haha. Keep in mind this is just my procedure and just helps me get the length close. The thicker the leather the more you'll have to add to make it fit. 16oz leather would require just over 3/4 extra length. As for the 36" to 42" that actually doesn't sound far off. I added 5 1/2" for a 5 hole belt. That would be 41 1/2" which is pretty close. Grant it it was only 8oz for the example. But using more appropriate leather would put you real close to 42" I think. That's how I would go about it. But theres more than one way to skin a cat haha. Hope it helps you out
  14. buckleguy.com has real nice hardware. You could check them out. They cast all their hardware out of solid brass and have a number of finishes as well.
  15. I would make a short strap that wraps around one side of the single loop. That way you can stitch/rivet/screw it to the holster. Then the shoulder strap would go around the other side of the loop and fasten to the other part of the shoulder strap with a Chicago screw or something like that.
  16. I will think Dwight is right. However you can make due with a single loop slider. That's essentially all it is.
  17. The basic 4 slot billfold I made followed northmounts suggestion more or less. The seam allowance was 3/16" and the back panel was 1/2" longer than the front. I think a 1/8" seam allowance would be better than 3/16" to be honest. I ended up with pockets being 2"x4" the outside pannel being 9"x 3 1/8" and the inside being 8 1/2" x 3 1/8". Two of the pockets we're t-slots. The outer pannel being larger so the wallet will fold. This works for wallets and things that are fairly "linear" in nature. If the leather is to wrap around something it gets a bit more complicated depending on how thick the leather is. Things like collars and cuffs and some holsters and the like. Usually thinner leathers don't offer much of a difference where thicker leathers do. For instance a bracelet made out of 2 oz leather compared to 8 oz leather will need differing amounts of length added to them to fit correctly. 2 oz being thin will wrap around the wrist easier and use less length whereas 8oz won't, and will require more length. For example, the formula is (distance around object) + pi(material thickness) + slack for comfort. So 2 oz bracelet around a 5" wrist with 1/4" slack: 5 + 3.14159(.0313") + .25" is 5.25" + .1037" = 5.4" Whereas an 8oz bracelet will be 5.25" + 3.14159(.125) is 5.25 + .3927" of 5.6" That's nearly a 1/4" difference in length between the two. Doesn't seem like much but its enough to be short haha. But even this doesn't always work. I made a harness for a dog and used this formula. It got me close but I still had to add length to make it come out right. Sometimes making a mock up out of cardboard or something makes a big difference and helps visualize how things will come together and point out where you need to make adjustments. It'll save some money too. Anywho, hope that sharing my way of figuring things out helped some.
  18. Thanks @motocouture, the design is simple and I'm getting the hang of the awl and pricking iron (I need better ones lol) The leather for pockets is too thick at about 5 oz. I skived the edges to make them easier to stitch. The next one will have the pockets at about 3 oz. @Retswerb, when you do try a wallet I recommend this design as a place to start. The min body is 3.1" x 9" (78.75mm x 228.6mm) the inside panel is 8" x 3.1" (78.75mm x 203.2mm) and then pockets are 2"x4" (50.8mm x 101.6mm). The two bottom pockets are t-slots. I measured 1/2" down from the top and 3/4" in from the side (12.7mm and 19.05mm) and cut out the bottom rectangular section to make the t-slot. Make sure to finish the pocket edges before stitching haha. After the simple wallet you'll be able to move on to more complicated designs with turned edges and the like.
  19. Try chas' method first. Mine was more an idea. It'll work but you still end up with a chunk of thread where they join. And it isn't very strong. You'd have to backstitch. Chas' method is the right way to go. Mine would work but needs some refinement and is really best used on thicker leather to hide the join.
  20. @YinTxi got it from frogjelly. It's 4/5 oz dyed veg tan of some sort. I've had it a while and can't really remember. I got it on sale cheap haha. Thanks mutt
  21. That looks like it's regular saddle stitch done 3 times. Looks painstaking haha. I'll try and upload pics of the join I'm thinking of later on when I get home. Unless you get it figured out haha
  22. Try this. Thread one needle with each color you want. Then take one needle and Pierce the thread end of one color with the needle of the other color and do the same with the second needle. It should create a bound thread without a knot
  23. This is the first bifold I made that actually worked. I went the simple route as all the others I tried were more complicated and didn't work right. All black. I'm happy with the stitching and edging too. Let me know what you think!
  24. The Dee is solid cast brass 1/8" thick at least. The leather broke because I was dumb and skived the part where the leather wraps around the Dee and I shouldnt have. I'm thinking I'll double the thickness or do one and a half thickness at least. So there will be added leather there at the Dee and harness ring. That'll be 18/20oz of leather. Should hold then right? Haha
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