Stetson912

Awesome. There was someone asking about burnishing chromexcel and I wasn't sure how you would do it. Thought you would know. I think the edge paint is the way to go. I may have asked before, but how do you do the lining? That seems to be the hardest part for me to understand with bags. I can never get it right.

How do you edge finish the chromexcel? Amazing bag too btw. I wish I could do it haha.

I wish I knew someone. Bob park is in Phoenix but, I doubt he offers one on one classes. There are usually classes available at the trade shows, and there's an annual one in prescott. As of now I'm unsure of the classes that will be available. It runs March 2 - 4th 2018. Mentions that workshops start in February, so I'd check them out. I think it's called the Southwest leather tradeshow. Another option is video classes. There's a site called learnleather.com. it's run by Michael Dale who collaborates with various artists. The lessons are live once but recorded so you can watch them later. The advantage to the live stream is you can ask questions. I recently saw one done by chan geer where he tooled a floral design in a checkbook cover. Very interesting. May be worth the look.

Nice work as usual

Like alpha said, the circumference of the belt is from where the tongue enters the hole be of the belt. I measure from the tongue to the most used hole. This then becomes the distance from the buckle to center hole on the belt being made (most traditionally at least) then 2 holes either side of the center for a 5hole belt (or 3 on either side for a 7 hole belt) and another 2 and 1/2 to 4 inches to the last hole for a decent sized billet to grab and work with. The reason I prefer this is because I can easily incorporate trophy buckles without needing to remeasure or worry about the belt being too long using the second mentioned method. Really, both methods work. Just the second one you have to take into account the buckle being used ect. If you measure from strap fold to belt hole and think they are using a buckle that's 1 and 1/2" long when in fact they are using a trophy buckle, your belt will be too short. So keep that in mind haha (been there.. oops) I recently made a 7 hole belt but the third hole was my mark. It left 4 inches to "expand" and 2 for any extra cinching needed. I like 1" spacing too, bit 3/4" is used by some also. All in all, it comes down to what works for you.

Hey now, All guns matter... Hehe This is a cool stamp

Lots of stitching haha. I need to try another bag.

After looking a bit, chromexcel is veg retanned. Which could be why it burnishes a bit. Just a thought. Im still doing research but I coulda swore I saw somewhere that chrome tanned leathers won't burnish but can't find that article lol. (That is straight chrome tanned, not retanned like chromexcel) Like I mentioned, I haven't had any experience with any chrome tanned or chromexcel leather so, there are better authorities than I haha. If I ever do try it, I'll have to try the tokonole

I'm not 100% certain because I don't use chrome tanned leather, but it's my impression that you can't really burnish chrome tan. You may look into edge paint? Again, another product I'm unfamiliar with. But, may be a topic to look into

Looks good. Is it going to be turned? The lining seen to the piping and panels and then turned? I'm just not visualizing the next step very well haha

I agree with mister Smith. A thicker leather will hold an impression better. And letting it dry more before stamping will make a world of difference. This is something you learn with time. Also, you don't want to stamp the sheath and let it dry completely and rewet it to form either. You'll lose definition that way as well

Go ahead, rub it in... haha One day I hope to get one myself. I know absolutely nothing about machines haha. But, it makes things faster for sure. If I did this more large scale I'd definitely get one. But for now I just do enough to satisfy my creative side haha

Another idea, use the football pieces as an inlay on the body panel. You'd make a regular bag and can cut panels like usual and just inlay the football pieces where you like.

Nice. I was going to say, kinda a waste to stitch one layer by hand for decoration haha. A machine tho, makes it worth it. Looks good

That's a neat idea. Requires a lot of thinking and posses a lot of what ifs. For instance. What if... Ahem... You use the football panels for the side of the bag and just but them up best you can and use other leather to fill in the gaps between them? Or, what if... You use some vertically and where they have the gap in between use a panel horizontally? It's hard to explain in words. I hope you understand what I'm getting at haha

Very cool. Them just one layer of leather or two? Machine stitched?

I'd keep the larger pieces for journals and the like if you can. But smaller pieces you could make needle cases, coasters, any number of keychains(you can stamp initials in it too if you have alphabet stamps), coin purses, mutt mentioned the phone stand keychain(there's a pattern for it on here somewhere), I've seen cat toys made too (little pouch to put some cat nip in and a long tail) zipper pulls and purse dangles, small bags or pouches with fringe, inlay/overlay work, card wallets(very minimalist), braided items if you can cut lace, bracelets and cuffs (mystery braid), headphone wraps, leather conchos and buttons, lace for bleed knots... That's all I got at the moment haha

Thanks Bob, I'm a subscriber to the leather Crafters and saddlers journal but just in the past year. I'll try and find your post on it here. Thanks.

Wow, really stunning. Had the same mesmerizing effect(if not more so) as a well stamped basket weave. Simple but elegant (simple being used loosely here) I've been back and forth on a lacing chisel because I didn't know if I should get an angled or straight one, but I like the look of the angled one here so, I've made up my mind haha. Also, on the card pockets, is there something on the backside keeping the cards from slipping to the bottom? Or just two slots cut in the pocket leather?

@billybopp thanks for the input. I don't know much about wood so, good to hear the reasons for and against. Thanks

@DJole I was going to use a potentiometer but didn't have one. So I just did this. You could always add one in later haha. A rheostat will work too @WoodysWorkshop I can't think of a reason why pine wouldn't work. I'm pretty sure that's all this little drawer handle is.

@northmount that is true. Perhaps with some clever gear ratio you can downspeed the output rpm? Just a thought. @alpha2, it was a fun little project. It is a good little motor for it too. Seems to fit the role just right. The motor new I believ is around $30 but, I happened to get the scooters free. Never know what you'll find at yard sales too.

I'd like to know how you did the lining

Yeah I'm sure that would work. Old vacuums have motors you can use too. They are noisier but it'll work. Washing machines and treadmills do too. Some of those may be more complicated and ahem... "Over powered" haha. Like there is such a thing

Thanks! I'm sure it can be done with a variety of motors salvaged from lots of different things. I wanted a simple light weight quiet burnisher that I can turn off and on. And that's all this is haha. Works for what I need. Imade a vacuum press bag as well, just haven't been able to find the fittings too set up the pump to test it yet haha.