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Stetson912

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  1. Stetson912
    @Mjolnir, is this it? i hope it is. I did some reading myself, I found one place said they use regular contact cement. Barge cement will work. Theycut the leather into square washers(round would work too) and threaded a bolt through them wet them and compressed them by tightening a nut on the bolt after wetting the leather. Then they let the washers dry. Next they added contact cement to the washers and stacked them on the handle. I guess the compression is meant to take any "slack" or sponge out of the leather so it stays put when the handle is in use. It was veg tan that was used too btw.
  2. Stetson912
    Hmm, interesting. I would think they would work because you'll be using a sander to shape the handle correct? My only thing would be that if it is chrome tan it could effect the metal it touches. But that may not be a huge deal. I would think a good contact cement would work. But I can't really say, I haven't done it either. Maybe some epoxy? Just some thoughts.
  3. Stetson912
    Ah I see now. That is the site I was on, but I see now that 600 ft rule is only on certain varieties. Thanks!
  4. Stetson912
    Does the tannery have a website by chance? I thought I found one but it mentioned a 600ft minimum order
  5. Stetson912
    Good info there. Thanks!
  6. Stetson912
    Ohh, my mistake. I'm a dummy lol. That makes more sense. Sorry I got mixed up
  7. Stetson912
    156mm x 85mm is the size of the 50£ note. It's the largest one. I don't think they are used much. The 20£ note is 149mm x 80mm. The 10£ is 142 x 75 and 5£ is 135 x 70. According to my google-fu lol
  8. Stetson912
    I tried. It helped a little bit but still there. I think it removed the resolene and got to the leather. But, no worries. It was a practice piece. More for function than looks
  9. Stetson912
    @Carson, I used a Dremel with buffing wheel. It was just too much and ended up marking the leather instead of buffing it. But, that was is iwb and doesn't matter much. It works great and is surprisingly comfortable too.
  10. Stetson912
    Very nice. I like the color and contrast stitching.
  11. Stetson912
    That's really clean work. How do you mold the corners so nice? Is that 8/9 oz or heavier?
  12. Stetson912
    I don't spend as much time carving as I would like. I can't seem to get my knife sharpener but that's probably me being lazy lol. I think your carving is good. Mine always lacked depth because what I thought was sharp in a knife really wasn't. Guess I'll be playing around with that haha.
  13. Stetson912
    Everyone seems to like the turquoise but I'm thinking binder clips all the way! Haha just messin' it's a stunning piece. Good work.
  14. Stetson912
    @Rossr, I'm nowhere near as proficient a carver as you are, but they look like over cuts. When you are cutting in do you connect your lines at the points? Whenever I see people (like Chan geer or Jim linell) carving I notice they don't connect their lines. There is a small gap. It's later fixed when they bevel. That's just my novice observation. I'm not sure if that's the case or not. Just a thought. I wouldn't have noticed them myself if you haven't said they were there haha.
  15. Stetson912
    Nice, is their calf hard to tool/work? How thick is it?
  16. Stetson912
    I made one for my dad a while ago, I used Don Gonzalez's method (I believe he has a YouTube video on it) basically he done what you done. The difference is that he used poster board on the tooling area for support when tooling and then used mat board for a stiffener. The edges of the matboard were skived thin so the liner leather would lay down nice. He used the same thickness leather I believe, and 2/3 or 4/5 for the liner. Yours looks good!
  17. Stetson912
    I've got a Ruger single six and a 1911 that live in their holsters. No problems. Just oil em every now and again. That said, they aren't super pretty valuable guns either lol. More utilitarian. I would agree with munky, if it's a high end something or another, best to keep it in it's own 'archival' case
  18. Stetson912
    @Webicons no worries. I'm not an expert by any means but the chromium salts tend to oxidize metals, and that's what's used to tan chrome tanned leather. The advantage is that it's a much faster process. @YinTx veg tan is what you want to use if it's contacting metal. If I understand correctly, common brass is mostly copper and zinc. It will tarnish over time, Unless you clean it regularly. I don't believe it matters what it's sitting in. I'm not a knife or metallurgy expert though. This is just what I've experienced myself.
  19. Stetson912
    Thanks oldnslow, I have a polishing brush I might try a coat of wax and see what happens
  20. Stetson912
    Jmcc, I used a makeshift vacuum press to mold. Because of this the guns weren't in the holster for more than 5 minutes. So this time I went without any plastic wrap or anything. I just oiled the gun before I put it in ant quickly dried them off and re oiled them after moulding. Many people disagree with this but it was a very short time they were wet. No harm done lol. If I were moulding without the vacuum press I definitely would have wrapped them.
  21. Stetson912
    Lol I agree, but the 1911 was more of a practice piece. The judge is a big gun. As you can see from the comparison pic. All in the cylinder and grip haha.
  22. Stetson912
    Thanks jd62 Mutt, it was a western fold over style and the shape of the gun made it hard for me to get a decent looking skirt. So I just added 3/4" all around. I used one of the tutorials on here and kinda followed the instructions there. That's what it said to add so I did. It could do with 1/2" or so. But with making the pattern it's hard to visualize the final product sometimes, it's a big gun so I guess I thought it would have looked better haha. Steelhawk, I used feibings oil dye light brown, wet moulded, used neatsfoot oil, then resolene thinned with water. I usually just buff the resolene with a soft cloth but I thought I'd try a polishing wheel on the Dremel. Needless to say, don't do that haha. Cut right through it. Probably too much RPM in the tool, even on the low end :/ I'll just stick to my cloth next time haha.
  23. Stetson912
    Just finished up these two holsters. The Remington r1 1911 holster is an iwb with lift the dot snaps. I used the Adams leather works pattern. Nothing too fancy. I tried a different buffing method which didn't work hence the lines.it isn't perfect but functional and I'm sure it'll get use. The second holster is a special one. My father in law got a taurus judge "ultra-lite" as an anniversary gift. This holster is replacing the previous one I made(before my current knowledge). There's nothing light about this gun. (Ultra-lite refers to the single action trigger pull when used) again, not perfect but functional. Let me know what you think and what I can improve! Thanks.
  24. Stetson912
    Very nice
  25. Stetson912
    Ohh I see your point. That would be a shame to see that rust :/
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