Stetson912

@Dwight that sounds like a fantastic idea! I kinda wanna just make a belt that way now haha.

Very nice! Where might one find info on the lacing applique and different stitching you did?

@CaptQuirk, how thick of leather is the belt? And did you get a measurement around where he will wear the belt at all? I recommend making a prototype out of cardboard or craft foam the same thickness of the leather. I'll say what I do with a gunbelt. I get a measurement just above the hips around the clothes that will be worn where the belt will ride not too tight but not too loose. For example I'll say 40". That means that from the buckle to the center hole on the billet I want to be 40" Next I figure out how much to add to the billet. I like 1" spacing. For a 5 hole belt I add 2" from center for holes and 3" more for extra to pull the billet through the buckle. 4" is ok too, I just prefer 3". All in all I'm adding 5" to the overall length of the belt. But, now we have to accommodate for the leather thickness. This means math.for example again, I'll say it's 8 oz leather. That is .125" thick. The formula you want is (measurement)+pi(leather thickness) 40"+pi(.125)= about 40.4" about 40 and 7/16". All in all I'd make my belt about 45 1/2" long rounding up that 1/16". I know that 7/16 sounds nominal but I've been there where I'd really like to have it there haha. Keep in mind this is just my procedure and just helps me get the length close. The thicker the leather the more you'll have to add to make it fit. 16oz leather would require just over 3/4 extra length. As for the 36" to 42" that actually doesn't sound far off. I added 5 1/2" for a 5 hole belt. That would be 41 1/2" which is pretty close. Grant it it was only 8oz for the example. But using more appropriate leather would put you real close to 42" I think. That's how I would go about it. But theres more than one way to skin a cat haha. Hope it helps you out

buckleguy.com has real nice hardware. You could check them out. They cast all their hardware out of solid brass and have a number of finishes as well.

I would make a short strap that wraps around one side of the single loop. That way you can stitch/rivet/screw it to the holster. Then the shoulder strap would go around the other side of the loop and fasten to the other part of the shoulder strap with a Chicago screw or something like that.

I will think Dwight is right. However you can make due with a single loop slider. That's essentially all it is.

The basic 4 slot billfold I made followed northmounts suggestion more or less. The seam allowance was 3/16" and the back panel was 1/2" longer than the front. I think a 1/8" seam allowance would be better than 3/16" to be honest. I ended up with pockets being 2"x4" the outside pannel being 9"x 3 1/8" and the inside being 8 1/2" x 3 1/8". Two of the pockets we're t-slots. The outer pannel being larger so the wallet will fold. This works for wallets and things that are fairly "linear" in nature. If the leather is to wrap around something it gets a bit more complicated depending on how thick the leather is. Things like collars and cuffs and some holsters and the like. Usually thinner leathers don't offer much of a difference where thicker leathers do. For instance a bracelet made out of 2 oz leather compared to 8 oz leather will need differing amounts of length added to them to fit correctly. 2 oz being thin will wrap around the wrist easier and use less length whereas 8oz won't, and will require more length. For example, the formula is (distance around object) + pi(material thickness) + slack for comfort. So 2 oz bracelet around a 5" wrist with 1/4" slack: 5 + 3.14159(.0313") + .25" is 5.25" + .1037" = 5.4" Whereas an 8oz bracelet will be 5.25" + 3.14159(.125) is 5.25 + .3927" of 5.6" That's nearly a 1/4" difference in length between the two. Doesn't seem like much but its enough to be short haha. But even this doesn't always work. I made a harness for a dog and used this formula. It got me close but I still had to add length to make it come out right. Sometimes making a mock up out of cardboard or something makes a big difference and helps visualize how things will come together and point out where you need to make adjustments. It'll save some money too. Anywho, hope that sharing my way of figuring things out helped some.

Thanks @motocouture, the design is simple and I'm getting the hang of the awl and pricking iron (I need better ones lol) The leather for pockets is too thick at about 5 oz. I skived the edges to make them easier to stitch. The next one will have the pockets at about 3 oz. @Retswerb, when you do try a wallet I recommend this design as a place to start. The min body is 3.1" x 9" (78.75mm x 228.6mm) the inside panel is 8" x 3.1" (78.75mm x 203.2mm) and then pockets are 2"x4" (50.8mm x 101.6mm). The two bottom pockets are t-slots. I measured 1/2" down from the top and 3/4" in from the side (12.7mm and 19.05mm) and cut out the bottom rectangular section to make the t-slot. Make sure to finish the pocket edges before stitching haha. After the simple wallet you'll be able to move on to more complicated designs with turned edges and the like.

Try chas' method first. Mine was more an idea. It'll work but you still end up with a chunk of thread where they join. And it isn't very strong. You'd have to backstitch. Chas' method is the right way to go. Mine would work but needs some refinement and is really best used on thicker leather to hide the join.

@YinTxi got it from frogjelly. It's 4/5 oz dyed veg tan of some sort. I've had it a while and can't really remember. I got it on sale cheap haha. Thanks mutt

That looks like it's regular saddle stitch done 3 times. Looks painstaking haha. I'll try and upload pics of the join I'm thinking of later on when I get home. Unless you get it figured out haha

Try this. Thread one needle with each color you want. Then take one needle and Pierce the thread end of one color with the needle of the other color and do the same with the second needle. It should create a bound thread without a knot

This is the first bifold I made that actually worked. I went the simple route as all the others I tried were more complicated and didn't work right. All black. I'm happy with the stitching and edging too. Let me know what you think!

The Dee is solid cast brass 1/8" thick at least. The leather broke because I was dumb and skived the part where the leather wraps around the Dee and I shouldnt have. I'm thinking I'll double the thickness or do one and a half thickness at least. So there will be added leather there at the Dee and harness ring. That'll be 18/20oz of leather. Should hold then right? Haha

@Sheilajeanne, thanks I understand now. I will be doing that with the top strap. I think that and shortening the harness are the only alterations to make to it. And when I replace the strap I will take up the slack in it. Thanks for the insight. I appreciate it

@Sheilajeanne, forgive me but I'm having a hard time visualizing what you mean. Do you have a picture you can share? Is the midline strap different than the back strap along the spine? I'm using 9/10 oz European bridle should I double that along the spine and around the Dee? Thanks for the insight. I'm just not following what you mean as this is the first harness I've made. Im thinking of shortening the harness to extend just past the front legs. I want the slack out of the strap that goes down the back also, that mat have been the problem. I just feel bad that it broke. He is stronger than I anticipated for sure.

So here is bo. A little long on the top. But I can fix that. He already ripped the Dee out so I will be replacing the top strap. Any thoughts on how I can reinforce that Dee at the back?

I don't know exactly. But my thought would be to skive the ends of the welt that terminate at the dart point really thin, to a feather edge. Then you can overlap them and stitch it in place. That's what I would try. But it certainly could not be the only or best way to do it. I hope you get it figured out

All fixed hehe

Soo silly me... I put the Dee in the wrong spot. Supposed to go on the belly end haha. Guess I'm fixing that in a few hours haha.

@Sheilajeanne, thanks! I know how akitas have some behavior issues and are difficult to train. Honestly I no don't think she is going to keep him. I will mention the prongs collar to her as well. It sounds like a good idea. I don't know much about training dogs or harnesses and the like. It seemed like a simple and effective design though so I tried it out. I wanted thick straps because of how strong he seems to be. Thanks for the info!

I think the stitching failed in the other harness. It wasn't nylon webbing, some sort of thin nylon fabric. I made the harness for a coworker. Bo is her dog. I will try and get a picture of it on bo but I will need to rely on her for that, I'm curious how it fits and looks on him myself. My coworker provided the measurements and everything. I just hope it works out. It's all saddle stitched and I can't pull anything apart. But I'm also not an Akita yanking at a harness either haha. This is my first harness and she is using it to try and contain him because he slips collars and things lol.

Thanks. I hope it works out. His owner says he can slip his collar and ripped the rings out of another nylon harness. Soo, I hope my stitching is up to par haha

I was commissioned to make a dog harness for an Akita. I've never made a harness before. Bit just finished it up and am happy with how it came out. Thanks to Gary for all your help. Details, 9/10 oz European bridle from rjf in Havana color. Dark brown tiger thread .08mm at about 7spi. All brass hardware from the buckle guy. Let me know what you think. I hope to get some pics of it in use too.

That's just one I found real quick. That's specifically an earring finding. They do make pronged cord ends. Like thesethis may be better suited for what you want. They have a few different ones. I just searched "pronged cord ends" and found a few sites.