Rockoboy
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Everything posted by Rockoboy
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Hi there. Can I get a pic of the box of thread please, also an indication of size if that's not plain to see in the pic and postage cost to Australia please. -
Thank you one and all for your ìnput. A few things are set in stone and one point I am a little flexìble on. These points are set in stone for me. 1. The most important point is respect the item. If I cannot do the repair properly, I will not even start. 2. Any repairs will be made with a minimum of alteration and/or replacement of the original leather. 3. Any replacements will only made after I have established exactly what the missing piece looked like. The point I am flexible on (at the moment anyway), what will I do with the case after repairs are made, or deemed not viable? Loan to a museum or RSL? Time will tell. Thanx for reading.
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I have a leather case, supposedly about 80 - 100 years old that is in pretty poor condition. Some of the surface of the leather has peeled in places and some of the leather straps are missing entirely. I am hoping to restore this case closer to new condition and/or stop it from degrading any further. My question is ... What can I do about the leather that has lost its surface coating? You can see the degraded leather better in the 2nd pic along the front and back edges of the top.
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I think you would need to fix your colour first, then apply whatever preparation you think will assist with your requirements. I tried a product called Thomson's Waterseal to add water resistance to leather that lives permanently out in the elements. I have only used it for a couple months so far, so long term results are still TBA, but it waterproofs the leather and you can forget about skiving the leather by hand. "It is as tough as old boots". Thomson's comes in various size cans for brush or spray application, plus it comes in an aerosol can. The item I made that needed to be waterproof, was a cover to go over the point of my anvil. My anvil lives out in the yard in the sun and rain, and the point would be deadly if one of my kids run/fell onto it. Plus I like having 2 kneecaps ... even though one knee is titanium!
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Some drink coasters made by my two nine year olds on the weekend with a little assistance from the old man. I did the dye-ing and assisted where needed.
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Maybe try a sewing store for a cloth pattern as used by home-sewing folks.
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Thank you for everbody's input. I am sure I can find one from this lot. leatherworker.net is one of the best forums I have ever been a member of. You guys ROCK!
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I am hoping to buy a l'indespensible knife, but I cannot find them online and I definitely cannot find them locally. Are they still available for purchase? Can somebody please let me know if they are, and what they are worth either with or without a blade.
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I tend to agree with weedub3 on this issue. If a person makes something and wants to sell it for $10, maybe they sell 4 per week. If they can reasonably make and sell that item for $5, but sell 20 of them to 'stockists', the comparison is $40 per week alongside $100 per week. The major consideration being the time factor to make 20 of the item. If the item is able to be turned out at the quality required and $100 covers material and pays for time taken, I believe it would be a good deal. Not the least consideration being that it gets your brand out there, and hopefully people will come to you for one-off specials where better money can be made.
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I am not an expert on leatherwork or sewing machines, but I am guessing it would have been sewn on a post machine, which sews vertically instead of horizontally.
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Good for you! I wish there was some way to do this more effectively. We get a lot of cold-calls from who-knows-where trying to sell stuff or sign us up for some rubbish. We have a 'No call list' in Australia, but the international callers usually don't adhere to the rules because our authorities are so weak that nothing happens to penalise those who break the rules. What I do for those callers is, I ask them to hold the line because there's a knock at the door, stove has been left on, kids In the bath etc. After 2 or 3 minutes, I get back to them, but they have usually gone to the next target. If they are still on the line, I go around again with some lame excuse for them to hold the line. They usually hang up after that. I mean to say, how rude is that?
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Sounds like a good deal to me, but ... then again ... I am still waiting for my long lost Nigerian half brother to get back to me. I sent him all my money so he could afford to get surgery for a an infected toenail, but I haven't heard from him for a while. Maybe this week. Is 10 years long enough to get over an ingrown toenail?
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Hand Clicker Press now available at Diamond Awl Workshop
Rockoboy replied to diamondawl's topic in Old/Sold
Hi there, Can I get a cost for this unit. Plus delivery to postcode 6168 Australia thanx. -
Matchlock sends his best but he is feeling slightly under the weather at the moment. I let him know people were asking after him, he said he would be around when he is up to it.
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I have read somewhere previously (but I cannot remember where) that the main thing to remember when thinking about preserving leather is " when leather is tanned, what does it lose? It loses fats, not oils" By this information, one would assume that using neatsfoot oil might not be the best thing to preserve, protect or rejuvenate leather. The best thing would be the fats which were removed in tanning and which may continue to be lost to the atmosphere as the leather continues to dry out and degrade with the passing of time. On the other hand, maybe using neatsfoot oil, beeswax, carnauba etc might do some good, but not as good as the best coating, sealing, rejuvenating option available. Personally, I have no idea, these are just an idea of something that I read, that seemed to make some sense to me. Comments, ideas? I just found the thread discussing the use of fats (tallow or similar) to preserve leather. "Using Tallow To Condition Leather."
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If you do a search for 'drop in liner' in the search function on this site, you will come up with lots of ideas about fitting a liner.
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Thanx Rodney, that was my main interest in buying this machine, along with it only costing $60. This machine gives me something to play with, using cloth and garment leather, until I can find a decent leather machine at a suitable price.
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What Leather will you not work with and what?
Rockoboy replied to Windrider30's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
IMHO, good kangaroo steak is better than the best beef steak. It is low in fat and tasty. I have some kangaroo jerky in my pantry at the moment, kangaroo sausages and kangaroo fillet in my freezer. Probably the only thing better than a good 'roo steak (within the red meat selection anyway) is a good roast goat leg. -
My 201P. Details below are my understanding of actual facts. Anybody with a different interpretation please let me know, I would be interested to hear if/where I went wrong. For those who do not know, the 201P is identical to the rest of 201 series which were assembled in the UK. The 201P was assembled in Penrith, New South Wales Australia from parts produced in the UK. There were a couple of cosmetic differences, colour, the timber carry case and cover were made different to appeal to the Australian market. This machine is only a light domestic duty machine, which I have not used yet. I plan on using it for sewing some fish skin leather soon, and maybe some 12oz canvas. It is only a light duty machine which did not work when I bought it, but for $60AUS, how could I lose? Thanks to a good mate, it now works after a bit of lubrication.
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You are truly one of God's gentlemen. Thank you for your assistance with everything Bud, and thank you very much for the book. Stay safe and I hope we can chat by email every so often. Kindest regards
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PM sent.
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Best machine for sewing 20-24 ounce
Rockoboy replied to T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
How about a nail gun, or a cordless drill and pop rivets? That is some HUUUGE job you have going on there! What are you making? -
I know its a lightweight domestic machine, but I believe it will work for light leather like fish skin. Plus it gives me a start into the whole sewing thing, and at a very low cost. I will pick up a more industrial machine when I see one at the right price. Until then, its the stitching wheel and handy awl, or a good friend who helps me out with his many machines.
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Apparently it was assembled in Penrith from 201K components made in Clydebank, UK. It was modelled on the 201K23. Unfortunately it did not come with a walking foot, that is the one small thing that detracts from this machine.
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These books turned up today. Absolutely sensational books, I know I will be using these for years to come. Any Aussie leather carver or colourist who does not have copies of these books is seriously missing out! I think that professional leatherworkers would get heaps out of these books, not just the newbies.
