hidepounder

David, Ounce a black seat has been treated with Neat-Lac and wears a while....where the top coat essentially wears off...will the black then continue to bleed or rub off? Bob

It's been a great tool! It's called a Multitool. They also make a Portagrind, which I have also, which attaches to a hand grinder. They are manufactured by P.A. Products, 6 Barry Ave, Mortdale 2223 N.S.W. Austrailia

Wild West Blade Works...we're just a cut above!....this is Bob, may I help you?

Really great tip and "how to" as well! Where would one find the Melinix (sp?) Thanks for sharing! Bob

To tell the truth, I like a very light scortch on my edges. I've found, quite by accident, that it creates a little tougher edge. Too much and the edge becomes brittle and cracks. I'm probably weird....but there you have it...... Bob

Ray, I use a belt sander more than anything else. For small curved edges I use the little drum sanders. I have a series of different sizes that I use on the end of my burnisher or I put them in a dremel. But 99% of my sanding is done on the belt.

Russ, Thanks for posting that edge photo. It is the first time I have been able to see what Ivan's machine will do and I appreciate it very much. You said that you dyed before burnishing....does the wax/parfin combo (I assume that it's wax & parafin) prevent dying the edge after you have burnished? Again, thanks for the help! Bob

Tom, Glue all the way to the edge, do not use excessive glue, and ounce you've married the two together, use a leather hammer all the way around the edges to insure a close tight bond. I didn't use to do this until I started using Masters Cement...who tell you to use a hammer. Now I do it when using Barge also. Hope this helps, Bob

I would really like to see some finished edges using his machine! I've heard so much about it...seen the video....but couldn't really see a close-up of his edges when he was finished. I was hoping he would be at Wickenburg where I could see first hand. Was he at Sheridan? Maybe someone else could give some testimony also? Anybody know? Bob

Ed, You knocked this one out of the park! It's obvious that you are comfortable with this style tooling. I like it all....the composition, the variety, you snuck outside the borders a little which I'm crazy about, great depth, great color and great edges!!!!!! Nice job! Bob

Dwight, I agree with everything you've said....no arguments at all....but I don't think the results will be the same on a bag with soft, pliable edges. The edges on a holster are rigid and fixed and lend themselves to the finish you describe. I'm not confident that one can expect the same results on the edges of a bag. I've repaired a few rope bags with chrome tanned gussets that were contact cemented, sewn and burnished. On all of them the soft chrome tanned edge separated from the veg tanned leather. They didn't look horrible, but they weren't nice and clean either. That's been my the biggest source of my experience with burnishing the two together.....I could be wrong though...wouldn't be the first time! Just thinking out loud.... Bob

I'll Second that!!!! Bob

Adler gets my vote!

Johanna, Great account of the show. LOVED the pix.....seeing it all again brings back memories of great fun! Now I really am depressed for not going! Thanks for the great write up though!

Freak...I've done a couple inlays...what works really well is make your leather just ever so slightly larger than the recess where you have to just slightly force the leather in...get the edge started first and then work from the middle toward that same outside edge. Works like a champ! I used Barge...really holds strong....still holding! Remember though, free advice is often only worth what it costs! Bob

That looks way more dangerous than a round knife!!!!!!! Think I'll leave well enough alone!

Kate....that's fabulous! Nice job! I would think there would be a good market for that kind of thing.... Bob

Personally, I think the problem you're experiencing is a combination of not having a heavy enough piece of marble or a stable enough table to set it on. Most professional toolers have scrounged up a piece of marble or granite that is approximately 18" x 24" and is 3" to 4" thick. Mounted in bench and set in sand or some other shock absorbing bedding, all bounce is eliminated at the surface of the slab. I think Peter Main uses a piece of 1/2" steel plate (don't quote me on that). I used one successfully for a long time, but I prefer the granite slab. If these type of surfaces are not practicle for you, you may just have to learn to deal with the bounce. I'm in that situation right now. I installed a chemical lab counter top that I am tooling on (it was given to me so I thought I'd try it) and it has a little bounce to it. Until I re-build the bench (soon I hope) I have decided to just deal with it. I have found when using my makers stamp, that I can tip it ever so slightly for the initial blow and then tip it in the opposite direction to even the impression out, on the second pass. While not the most desireable, it's a method that works well and I won't worry about it until I re-build the bench. There is nothing wrong with placing a piece of leather under the one you're workiing on if you're satisfied with the results. If the impression is clean and crisp and if the leather does not stretch too much, then I'd say you've found an acceptable way to deal with the bounce! However I do recomend ditching the light weight mallet for a heavier maul. I've never used a dead blow hammer, but I think it should work just fine. Most pro's have a 3 or 4 mauls in different weights....one being heavy for use with their makers stamp, end punches, etc. Happy tooling! Bob

I didn't even know such a tool was available.......I love this place!!!!!!!

I've tried this a few times and wasn't pleased with the results. What I ended up doing was installing a binding over the edge and that looked a lot more professional to me. I used a strip of 2/3 oz and glued it on. I made a light scribe line to mark where thee binding should be in front, leaving the backside pretty long. After I had finished sewing, I took a #3 edger and trimmed the binding on the back side parrallel to the stitches. Came out pretty nice. The only pix I have are on a rope bag. The outside edge of the bag has a binding and some of the areas on the pocket do as well. I'm not sure if this is applicable to what you are doing, but it is a good way to deal with two dissimilar materials that don't edge well. Here's a photo, hope it helps:

My pleasure, Bree, hope it works for you.

Ray, I've noticed that the motor vent is exposed on mine and subject to debris falling in.....I need to install a small sheild on mine to correct that. Bob

Absolutely not! In fact, that was what I meant by doubling it. I think you'll really be happy with it when you're done. Have some fun with it! Bob

I am SICK with envy!!! You have a Water Jet!!! It never occured to me that you could cut leather....but I'd rather makes knives to do that. When I saw the knive you posted, I considered trying to use my plasma cutter, but I know that would ruin the temper of those old blades. Anyway...great job. Stick some Water Buffalo or Bighorn scales on them and sell them for $$$$$$$$$$$ Jealous as Hell! Bob

That's funnny!!!