hidepounder

Wow Troy, I'm impressed! That's a beautiful job! Man you nailed the color, too.! Bob

John, The guy from the billiards forum is just an Eight Ball....destined to be knocked around, then sunk! I think everybody agrees with you...his statement was nonsense! As for being able to distinguish between custom work, like in your shop, or factory production work....the differences should be obvious! Especially when tooling is involved. I agree that the quality of some factory products cannot be duplicated....but I'm not sure that applies to what we all do here...I'd have to think about that.... Anyway, I agree with what you are saying.....but you knocked me off my stool with your comment about SKAP. I'm not familiar with the company or it's products, of course, but if they are of a quality level as you stated, then their prices are incredibly cheap! A QUALITY hand made briefcase easily starts in the $2000-$3000 dollar range and can easily exceed $10,000 depending on the use of exotic leathers and other accoutriments and decorations....so I'm curious to know what those prices would equate to in our market. What does an $800 briefcase in China, cost here?

WOW, that's beautiful! I don't know anything about braiding but that's fantastic. It blows my mind when I see stuff like this. How long did it take to make?

I've never seen this before. Wow! Maybe when it dries you could clean it with oxalic acid...I don't know....oxalic acid would make it more difficult to cut, though...I think......what kind of leather and where did you get it?

When it comes to what most of us do here, I don't see why this issue is such big deal. What difference does it make whether you prefer to use the term "hand made" or "hand crafted"? I doubt customers will be swayed one way or the other if they are interested in the product. For most of us it's obvious that we have created the piece ourselves and the quality is self evident. When an individual cannot distinguish between a hand made product or a commercial manufactued product, the simple term "hand made" or "hand crafted" is not enough information to educate them. I think you should use the term you like the best and not worry about it. Personally, I like to use the term "custom made" and that's what I put on my makers stamp. At that point I'm glad to answer questions (and hope to make a sale!!!!).

I understand the distinction that's being made and have no arguments. The thing is...I don't think the terms "hand made" or "hand crafted" have any link to quality. Go into any curio shop or tourist trap and you'll find a hundred "hand crafted" and "hand made" elephants, pots, jewelry, boxes, bugs, day planners, whips, .....you name it!.......they all fall into the "hand crafted/made" category. They are purchased by the carload from Indonesia, China, Mexico, Phillipines.......everywhere around the world were labor is cheap. I'm not knocking them...they're great!...and I've purchased my fair share.....but there's no "quality" to the items. I know that the term "hand crafted" or "hand made" is supposed to represent quality....but were you fooled? Did you ever consider that quality is part of the deal....of course not! So for me, whether it says "hand made" or "hand crafted" just isn't important. I'll use the terms on my makers stamp just to take up space or because it's traditional to do so....but I'm not fooling anybody. My work will have to sell itself.......................................THAT'S DEPRESSING! Bob

Denise, I think they mean the exact same thing.....it will be interesting to what others think..... Bob

Ray...I'm not sure what all you are using rivets on, but if the rivet isn't taking a huge amount of strees, maybe a Double Cap Rivet would do the trick. They come in various finishes, plain and embossed. I don't know if they are strong enough for what you need, but they're easy to set, iexpensive and are less unsightly (to me, anyway). Another alternative are Chicago Screws. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/de...ture=Product_95 http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/de...ture=Product_14 Just a thought....... Bob

I'm probably not really qualified to give you this answer, but I'm going to give you my opinion anyway. It's been my experience that edge paints have been developed for shops who produce quantities and need the ablility to shorten the edge finishing process. The edge paints that I have tried did not produce the same high gloss finish that I require...they all peeled, scaped or chipped off, so I was not satisfied. My goal has been to achieve a smoother, more permanent, high gloss, custom finish than what I was able to achieve with the edge paints. I'm not knocking edge paints at all, please don't misunderstand, there is certainly a place for them in the market. However, I don't think they are a replacement for the tedious process required to get a high quality finish required on a custom project...it takes a lot of work to get really nice edges! Again, I am no expert here and there are a lot of products I haven't gotten around to trying...the CampbellRandall product being one of them. I'm just saying that one shouldn't expect an edge paint to produce the same results as burnishing and coloring with oil or alcohol based dyes. IMHO! Just a free opinion that's only worth what is costs... Bob

Nice job, DJ, and good looking stitching, too! Bob

Boy am I jealous.....fly fishing!!! Wow! Have a great vacation, Bree...see ya when you get back. Bob

Jim, I just can't agree with you about the use of a head knife, but that's just my personal preference. I do think people should use what they are comfortable and safe with. What really interests me is your comment about using a wide wood chisel to skive with...that is something I had never considered using. A quality wood chisel has good steel and can honed incredibly sharp! I can see how it would be really fast and easy to make a clean lap on narrow straps..but what about when you have to skive an area wider than the width of the blade...do you still use it? Do the corners of the chisel become an issue to deal with? I would like to know more about what you have learned about skiving with a chisel. sounds like good stuff! Bob

Jim, I use a head knife for cutting out my patterns and I don't use a straight edge when cutting straight lines...I can make a cut and easily stay within the bounds of a thin pencil line, when cutting straight. It's more difficult for me to that with a straight knife or box knife. I can cut any shape in leather with a head knife that can be cut with a straight knife. In addition, I can bevel and skive with the head knife...something that cannot be done effctively with a straight knife. I should point out, at this point, that there are all kinds of shapes and sizes of round/head knives, some more suited for some jobs than others. I've found that I can cut considerabley faster and more accurately with these knives than I can with a straight knife and for me, anytime I can cut away from myself, I consider it safer than when cutting toward my body! This is a subject that has been discussed widely...if you conduct a search you'll probably find volumes of inflamitory discussion to read. The bottom line is, you should use whatever you feel comfortable and safe with! It doesn't matter if it's a straight knife, a box cutter or shears...all can be used to cut leather! Bob

Beautiful job, Shawn! Lots of work go into those. Roses are difficult to tool and yours looks really good. I hope you don't wait another two years to show us another one! Bob

Okay, I finally got in.....haven't a clue what I was doing wrong. What a great site and Monty's work is incredible! I'll be visiting it often for inspiration! Thanks for sharing that site. Bob

Thanks, Art, I feel better knowing that I haven't created a future problem. It's worked well for me for several years, but I know that doesn't mean I might not be in for a surprise! Now I won't worry about it! Bob

I would really like to see his work, but I can't find the site. Bob

Bob, I'd like to see what you have also.... Bob

Hi Janice, My recomendation would be to just practice tooling on any scrap leather you have laying around. I would do a search and find simple pieces where the tooling appeals to you...copy the pattern and tool it...then compare your tooling to the piece you copied. Try to find something to improve on, on each new piece. And save them....you'll amaze yourself at your progress in no time. This way you don't have to worry about messing up a project. Hope this helps, Bob

Here's a photo of a roper breast collar. This style is also contoured to ride above the horses shoulder to minimize restriction of movement at the shoulder. The breast collar is constructed of 11/12 oz skirting which is skived and folded back around the three connecting dees. I then back the skirting with 9/10 oz Califronia latigo which is also skived to fit smoothly at the dees. I install a 2" dee ring below the main dee so that the lower tug strap can be easily replaced. That is the piece that becomes saturated with sweat and becomes stiff and hard. It is constructed of doubled 9/10 oz latigo and all my hardware is stainless steel. There is a 1" dee attached to the center piece so that a strap may be tied to keep a tie-down from drooping. All pieces are glued with Barge or Masters and then sewn, including the side tugs, which are lined. This is probably a more complicated way to build a roping breast collar than it really needs to be, but I've never had one come apart! Hope this gives you some more ideas. Bob

I think it looks really good.I'm with Art, you stitching is very nice. I personally would like to see the edges with a better finish, but it's a geat job! Bob

They really turned out great, Russ! Gonna need a fancy pair of Olathes to wear outside your pants when sportin' those! Good job on the tooling! Bob

Here is the line-up currently on my bench. Left to right they are: 1.) J. Cook. I love the handle on this knife....designed by Chan Geer, but I hardly use it anymore and my sell it.....don't know. 2.) W. Rose. Probably my favorite knife. It doesn't doesn't touch a cutting board or dry leather. 3.) Gomph. I use this knife more than any of the others....I use it for general cutting and skiving. 4.) Bill Buchman. I really like this knife also and use it exclusively for cutting out of the hide. 5.) Gomph. I use this for just for skiving large laps, like on breast collars, etc. I also have a Jerimiah Watt which I don't use anymore and will probably sell. I would like to have a Dosier, Bruce has raved about his. I'd also like to have a little Buchman like Arts, that was made for Verlane.

I have a Rose knive, and Bruce is right, it won't leave here. They are of the highest quality steel! Bob