hidepounder

King's X, I'm really glad my process has worked for you! I have learned so much here and it is really nice to know that something I've shared has helped others in return. Keep up the good work and thank you for the recognition...I'm humbled by your comments! Bob

Rusty, I used to copy patterns like that a lot! Still do from time to time. If you lay piece of medium/heavy paper (a paper sack works good) over the tooling, and then with a #2 pencil laid flat, just brush the lead back and forth and the lines of the pattern will emerge. Then you can trace it! Bob

Nice and clean, Johann....nice work! Bob

Absolutely stunning, Bobocat...as usual. I love the colors! Thanks for sharing! I'm a Bobcat fan! Bob

Get well soon Badger! Sounds like it's all downhill from here on.... Bob

Mark, Thanks for keeping us uptdated. This is a tragic loss for the leather community....he will be missed!!!!!

Great shop Randy!! I'm really envious....I can't even imagine how nice it would be to everything in it's place and ready to use! And WINDOWS!!!! Wow! Bob

Thanks David! I always appreciate a kudo from a master! Bob

I guess because until there were motorized burnishers, it was a hell of a lot of work! That has always been part of the problem....people don't really want to commit to a complete finish if it means more work than what it took to tool or build the piece! I didn't not invent the process...it's been the standard practice of saddle shops, for years! Bob I guess because until there were motorized burnishers, it was a hell of a lot of work! That has always been part of the problem....people don't really want to commit to a complete finish if it means more work than what it took to tool or build the piece! I didn't not invent the process...it's been the standard practice of saddle shops, for years! Bob

Johanna.....How would I know, I can't see back there...are they permanent and is there a cure? Seriously concerned! Bob

Amen Brutha!

Bruce, I have started to buy a plough gauge couple of times and was just too tight to turn loose of the money. Douglas loves them like you do! What I want to know is are they good for stripping narrow widths and how well do they work on light leather. I've discovered that when I was stripping out 2/3 oz or 3/4 oz leather, my draw gauge wanders.....it's extremely sharp and with the light leather there is not enough resistance between the blade and the guide to keep me cutting straight. Bob

Thank you, I appreciate it! Here is a link showing the finished product .Click Here Bob

Brushpopper, Here is a thread regarding burnishing. Click Here. Hope this helps! Bob

Beautiful edges Kate! I'm glad this has worked for you! Mission accomplished for me. I do want to make one clarification however....I burnish with canvas that has been wrapped on a Weaver burnishing wheel....I do touch ups by hand however. Bob

Janice...yes I was referring to a jig like Tandy sells. Chuck Smith makes a really nice one also. For now a strop with white rouge is all you need. As for patterns, those sources are great! I just wanted to make the point that you want to copy an accomplished tooler rather than a novice. Bob

I wasn't going to say anything....but that occured to me also. Then I thought maybe it is supposed to.....

Really great job, Ed! The mauls are beautiful and so is the stand. I love the inlaid leather makers stamp....it really looks professional! Bob

Hi Linday, When you say stain, I assume you are talking about a light color coat over the entire piece. An antique finish, say. That, you would do after oilng. If you are talking about using a dye....then that should be done before oiling. Before you you dye, oil or antique, you should clean the leather with oxalic acid. This will help to remove and dirt or oils from handling which can affect how the the final color comes out. Really, we could use just a bit more info in order to better answer your questions. Bob

Thanks, Spinner! I appreciate your comments. Bob

I was talking to Barry King, yesterday...he will be there....

If memory serves me (and I can't count on it anymore), Bob makes three sizes. I use a #1 and a #2. I use a #1 for 69-138 thread. The #2 is good for up to around 277 thread. I have used it with 346 as well...but that was probably pushing it.... Bob

Primarily used on fine harness work. Not seen very often on western type pieces, except for casework interiors, etc.

Tom, There is no such thing that I'm aware of. If you have an acrylic stamp made, you wll get it quickly and it will not be expensive. The down side is, they do not last forever and they are fairly easily damaged. Mosby (Grey Ghost Graphics), does a great job. On the other hand, if you need a rugged durable stamp that will last for years, you should probably go to steel. They are expensive and take longer to get, but will last a lifetime. Harper and Infinitey are the two steel stamp makers that I am aware of....both good! Bob

Kliff, I think that looks spectacular! I'm not a seat builder, but I appreciate fine work of any style. You appear to have good artistic skills drawing patterns and good command of your tools, as well. Nice job! Bob